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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Got a set, pumped them out, let them hang , pumped some more and did that a few more times before syringing in 300ml of ATF using a big 100mm syringe.

Bent and hammered some 3mm plate in a vice to make clevis
Cut bush rings off the end
Welded 20mm of coupler to suit 10mm bolt on end
Fitted clevis and loctited 10mm bolt unto coupler and cranked it up tight.

Top bush on Harleys are about 25mm long so too long, they hang out of the ring by a few mm so I ground it down and sanded until flush with shock itself making it 21mm.
Bolt used for Harley is 13mm vs 10mm for Burgman, had some aluminium tube that was the perfect size for a sleeve.

Mounted it all up, ran the piping, put 20psi in and took it for a run.
Dropped to 15psi and then 10psi and decided 10 was the number.
Far better than OEM , feels like the road has been resurfaced and no more bottoming out when hitting several bad bumps with the wife on the back.

Big thumbs up from her.

 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks

The ones I got were Showa shocks p/n 54565-97C

Partial list of candidates and ones to avoid here
54532-85
54536-02A
54540-93
54565-09 FLH FLHT FLHR FLHTI 13" (G5E3-00)
54565-97 (A) FLH 13"
54565-97 (B)
54565-97 (C)
54631-02B Road king FLHRS or FLHX or FLTRX 12" shock pair "low profile"
54632-98 bagger 12" or 12.5
54635-09 12"
54661-02A Road King FLHR Street Glide 12" single shock "lowered"
54662-09 street glide 11.5"

http://www.hdforums.com/forum/sportster-models/532510-air-shock-part-numbers-and-length.html
Thread here on pulling them apart if you want to go that far - the guy I got them from assured me they were fine, just that they had leaked fluids because he lay them down when storing them - so a fluid change was what I did.

http://xlforum.net/vbportal/forums/showthread.php?t=1356875

330ml was what I put back in - not the 300ml as stated above
Most of the seemingly more credible threads said 10oz to 10.4oz of fluid
I decided on ATF because thats what Honda was stating in their Goldwing manuals for their showa shocks.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Well, I rode about 600km (two tanks of fuel) on them late last week on a ride with just about every road condition imaginable from new and smooth to more pothole than road and was very impressed.
Today I did the same route with the wife on the back and we bottomed out a few times on 15psi so upped it to 20psi and never had a problem.

The only problem I have come across is when I drop the air pressure back for a single rider I do get a few drops of ATF come out but that would be fixed easily by raising the airvalve higher than the top of the shock, at the moment it is below the top of the shock .

I would not hesitate to do this again on another bike and highly recommend it to anyone not happy with the OEM shocks.
The improvement is that dramatic.
 
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I don't have any problems with the 650's rear shocks but I think the front are terrible. Going over even the slightest bump induces shocks rating at least five on the Richter scale and makes me as jumpy as tin-toys with keys in their backs, and, if there is a long series of these bumps (ie: M6 Fort Dunlop near Birmingham) it makes me want to clamber into a convenient broom-cupboard clutching a bottle of Mogadon. The front shocks are as much use as an inflatable dartboard and judging from the comments on this Forum that is not just my opinion. The problem, I think, is that the front wheel is too small to bridge these bumps and they thus require slowing down to ride over them at the pace of mammalian evolution. It's just not good enough for 21st century - especially at a time when the highway seems to be crammed full of eye patients with cronic myopia.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I did sonic spring and new fluid replacement in the front as well.
 

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I did sonic spring and new fluid replacement in the front as well.
And, honestly, did it give you a smooth, silky ride over the bumps?
 

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As a youth I rode and drove almost everywhere at WOT, after a couple of tickets, several spills (off's?) plus the passing of years - and gaining more sense I now ride defensively and with consideration for others (even where they don't deserve it), this has allowed me to survive for 78 years with hopefully a few more to come.

If you know your bike has small wheels then drive with appropriate respect over potholes on poor surfaces, if shocks are knackered then replace them! SIMPLES?


Jim
 

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The Burgman front fork has less travel than a lowered Harley Sportster, only without a large front wheel to soften out the bumps.

Effective travel is only 3 inches, or half what regular motorbikes have.

Raising the suspension would make the ground hard to reach for many even slightly vertically challenged riders.
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
And, honestly, did it give you a smooth, silky ride over the bumps?
Even my car doesnt give smooth silky rides over the bumps as it has a firm suspension as does the front on the bike now.

What it does give me is no more diving under brake and no more jarring from bottoming out, so I call that a win.

The rear on the other hand does give a smooth silky ride over the bumps if at around 6psi one up but too much air (15-20 psi pressure after pillion gets off) and it's a firmer sports type ride
 

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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
Post 142 and 144 of this thread has pics.
http://burgmanusa.com/forums/15-burgman-650/24590-burgman-650-suspension-experiment-15.html#post561810

Mine isn't as neat because I used an Arc/stick welder, which I own, instead of a TIG.
You dont see the welds anyway unless you get down on hands and knees and lift up the rubber boot.
Over 15,000km's since doing it says it's strong enough.

I run a car tyre on the back @ 32psi and run 20psi in the shocks now - set and forget, no adjustment needed for pillion or one up.
 

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I had these same air shocks on my 2008 Harley Street glide. They work great on the Harley with my only complaint being air loss over time. Mine would lose 5 or 6 pounds just setting over the winter. I rode 15psi single rider and 20psi with a passenger.
 
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