[shavian]

Got all the tupperware panels, lights, seat, frame etc all off my K6 Exec for a thorough cleanup & repaint (replaced Primary Pulley Shaft Adapter bolt, all fluids changed, plugs cleaned & gapped, brakes cleaned & fresh fluid installed, radiator flushed etc) Should the engine be able to run without all this paraphenalia? Starter just 'clunks' but won't crank the motor - even with a direct heavy wire to the + battery terminal. Instrument cluster lights up. All fuses I can find check out OK. side stand is UP, kill switch closed & both brake levers applied! Bike is on centre stand (I can't find any cutout switch on centre stand). Battery holds 12.5v plus, and is normally on battery tender when not in use. How can I be sure plug caps are seated OK; they feel to have a hard contact on their terminals, but the rubber shrouds give a degree of uncertainty!. 54,000kms on the odometer. Any helpful comments appreciated.

 

[cmn1771]

did u check the kill switch on handlebars?

 

[peelbrow]

My first test would be to try a jump start with a good battery. If it still only 'clunks' then remove the starter motor and try it again and report the result back here.

 

[Jetfixer]

Do you also has a good ground to the battery? You mentioned only the + side. You are probably only hearing the starter solenoid closing.

 

[Buffalo]

In answer to your question, yes it should start as long as you have the ecu, dash , fuel pump and all the switches, sensors and relays hooked up. When I replaced the belt in my CVT I started mine with all the body work off it except the dash and windshield.

 

[MJR]

Do you also has a good ground to the battery? You mentioned only the + side. You are probably only hearing the starter solenoid closing.

Sounds like the problem to me. Theres two heavy gauge white ground connections, one to the harness and the other to the drivetrain.

 

[farqhuarforever]

Got all the tupperware panels, lights, seat, frame etc all off my K6 Exec for a thorough cleanup & repaint Any helpful comments appreciated.

Do you really have the frame removed? :?: If so, I am not surprised the bike will not start. :wink:

 

[LeDude]

as long as the scoot completes its start-up check cycle and you don't get any error codes flashing on the dash... which pretty much means having all the essential electrical connections in place.

good luck...

 

[Buffalo]

Got all the tupperware panels, lights, seat, frame etc all off my K6 Exec for a thorough cleanup & repaint Any helpful comments appreciated.

Do you really have the frame removed? :?: If so, I am not surprised the bike will not start. :wink:

He may have just been refering to the sub frame that supports the trunk and seat.

 

[shavian]

Yep, Buffalo is right; I was referring to the sub-frame!....Anyway, problem solved. Intuition told us (another Burgie rider & me) that 72.5 ft.lbs is a (too) massive torque. Symptoms suggested the starter couldn't turn the engine because the engine was unturnable! We tried to turn it over using the 32mm socket - and couldn't! We backed off the bolt to 45 ftlbs and HEY PRESTO she fired first touch of the starter button! HALLELUIA! I had previously read the following on this forum and took it as gospel...a big mistake!
"Tighten the primary pulley shaft bolt to the specified torque settings with the special tools ( shaft holder and extension handle).
64 N-m (6.4kgf-m, 46.6 lb-ft) For 03-04 models.
93 N-m (9.3 kgf-m, 67.5 lb-ft) for 05 + models."
Moral of the story.....search the official manual for the correct information...or better still, rely on LeDude/Buffalo!
Many thanks for all your comments....

 

[MJR]

What does the torque on the CVT primary adapter bolt have to do with not being able to turn the motor over? :?

 

[peelbrow]

My first test would be to try a jump start with a good battery. If it still only 'clunks' then remove the starter motor and try it again and report the result back here.

:thumbup: PS: If you had done what I said above you would have discovered that the starter motor spun ok which should have directed your attention to a locked-up engine. Ah well, we live and learn (usually!)

 

[shavian]

What does the torque on the CVT primary adapter bolt have to do with not being able to turn the motor over? :?

'cos it appears that it 'locked' the adapter so tightly to the casing that it could not turn.! -hence nothing would turn...makes sense to me - and is borne out by freeing up when the torque was reduced (to that recommended in the manual)...Case closed, I hope.

 

[shavian]

What does the torque on the CVT primary adapter bolt have to do with not being able to turn the motor over? :?

'Cos it appears that it 'locked' the adapter so tightly to the casing that it could not turn.! -hence nothing would turn...makes sense to me - and is borne out by freeing up when the torque was reduced (to that recommended in the manual)..

It's a puzzle to me that the 'flange' of the adapter bears against the CVT casing without any apparent means of lubrication? There is no bearing evident...as the shaft/adapter/bolt spin together, surely heat must be generated between the flange and casing. Has this engine I've got been assembled incorrectly? Is there danger of heat causing it to seize at this point? Is this the reason why the original bolt became loose? Thank you for your patience; any helpful comments will be appreciated.

 

[MJR]

What does the torque on the CVT primary adapter bolt have to do with not being able to turn the motor over? :?

'Cos it appears that it 'locked' the adapter so tightly to the casing that it could not turn.! -hence nothing would turn...makes sense to me - and is borne out by freeing up when the torque was reduced (to that recommended in the manual)..

It's a puzzle to me that the 'flange' of the adapter bears against the CVT casing without any apparent means of lubrication? There is no bearing evident...as the shaft/adapter/bolt spin together, surely heat must be generated between the flange and casing. Has this engine I've got been assembled incorrectly? Is there danger of heat causing it to seize at this point? Is this the reason why the original bolt became loose? Thank you for your patience; any helpful comments will be appreciated.

The reason I wondered is I have tightened that bolt on another one to that and more torque without any problems and that the primary shaft bolt shouldn't stress the case. The bolt only preloads the CVT input bearing between the CVT primary pulley assembly and the engine driven gear on the '05-up. The engine driven gear is supported in the engine case with bearings on either end. So basically you have the adapter gear (on the outside) and CVT primary shaft/CVT input bearing (on the inside) sandwiching the engine driven gear with the adapter bolt.