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Discussion Starter #1
Paul - AND/OR anyone else with answers......

You mentioned you had shimmed your windshield out 1/4"
Could you give a brief description of how you did it
AND
Did it make a noticeable difference in the amount of wind
bouncing off your helmet.
I find the ear-plugs cut the noise down a lot but if one
could cut the wind down too without purchasing a new windshield, that
would be great.
Thanks
By the way the AN650K3 is a great ride - I've put about
200K on it during the last few days - short trips around town
40 Km 60 Km and 80 Km roads - Have never exceeded the 4000 RPM's
yet

Also - do you think it would be wise to push the POWER MODE button
at 80 KpH (3800 RPM's) From what I have been able to read, when
you go into POWRER MODE the machine increases Revs by about 1000

Is it safe to go into manual transmission at any speed - Will the
trans just go into the right gear - I would hate to push the button
at 60 K or 80 K and leave a trail of nuts and bolts and other
engine parts on the road behind me.....

These questions may seem unimportant in the grand scheme of things
but this is a great machine and I'd hate to do something stupid for the
lack of asking the question....


BUMP
 

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Bump,
I did that on my 650 as well, and used 2 hose washers, (moved the bug line up about 1/2") some have used 4. If you use 4 you will probably have to get longer barcket bolts. I think there's photos in here somewhere. If I find them, I'll post the link. Here is a thread on this

http://burgmanusa.com/forums/viewtopic. ... windshield

You can shift to manual at speed, I have done it @ 100 (62mph) and it's really not a big deal. I played quite a bit with it when I got it, but hardly ever find a reason to use it. I find the Power buttom works just fine for passing situations, or the twisties.
 

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Bump,

I used 2 hose washers on each side. One goes behind the mounting bracket. The other between the mounting bracket and the windshield. By splitting them up that way, the stock length screws/bolts work fine, and you are not overstressing anything. It does make a difference. It is not a substitute for buying a much taller windshield. It is cheap to try. If you just need an inch or two more lift to the wind coming off of your current windscreen, it can do the trick. If you need much more than that, a taller windscreen is probably needed.

When you hit the manual mode button, you do enter MM in the appropriate gear. I can't think of any situation where you really need manual mode though. Auto mode is really smart. Hitting power mode at higher speeds is not going to gain you much and might even hurt acceleration. If I start a pass at 40 - 45 mph I might use it briefly. But if I start a pass at 60 mph it would only hurt performance. Auto mode will downshift ratio a bit when you hit the throttle anyway. I ride in Auto mode more than 90% of the time. I mostly use Power mode on tight curvy roads where top speed is say 35 to 40 mph but you want more engine braking going into the curves and oomph coming out of them.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Paul ------You said....

You used 2 hose washers on each side. One goes behind the mounting bracket. The other between the mounting bracket and the windshield. By splitting them up that way, the stock length screws/bolts work fine, and you are not overstressing anything.

Well I fiddled yesterday and found that 2 wahsers between the Mounting
Bracked and the Windshield threw things out of alignment SO
I did as you suggested above and THEN when I read your reply
to my question this morning I was quite pleased with myself....

Thanks - NOW I will try it out to-day and see what happens....

I really like ear-plugs - that cuts the noise down - and I don't mind
the breeze - It's the noise that bugs me....

Also --- Leaving the machine in normal mode is so easy and so convenient

Thanks - I hope you don't mind answering any other stupid questions I may have...

BUMP
 

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Bump (and other new folks),

You want to get used to trying the forum "Search" function first. I know I had posted that info on shimming the windscreen before. If you are successful, your reward is an instant answer. We have probably discussed about 80 percent of the questions asked by newer members before, and we haven't removed anything from the forum databases yet. There is a lot of information, discussion, and opinion available.

If you can't come up with what you need after a few minutes of searching, feel free to ask. We don't mind helping, and many of us know more about these scooters than any dealer does.
 

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Bump,

Be sure to let us know how that shim job works out for you. I am running a Large Clearview screen (not an XL or an XXL), and I am 6'6". This screen is really too small for me, but the shimming makes it work pretty well. While an XXL screen would provide total comfort, I am avoiding the mileage and performance penalties that the huge windscreen would impose with it's additional wind drag particularly at higher cruising speeds.

Some testing that I did last year with an XXL showed that it was costing me about 15 mph top speed, and at least 5 mpg compared to the stock screen. That is quite a performance hit! This Lg screen is much more efficient, and shimmed, it is a reasonable compromise between comfort and economy. Will I go back to an XXL? Maybe (but with a vent this time). I'd like the additional comfort, but I'll hate the drop in performance (particularly when trying to pass vehicles on higher speed roads) and economy (particularly now that gas is up to $2.25 per gallon). I can't quite get myself to do it yet.
 

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Well, I just did it - backwards (as usual). And on purpose.

http://burgmanusa.com/gallery/swept-shield

I have the Clearview XXL, and at only 5'11", I definately look through the shield at all times. I really don't want to cut it down, but I'd like the option of looking over the top if necessary (like in fog). My gas mileage has also suffered by about 10% since installing the screen. I got to thinking about what you guys are doing, and decided to try the opposite.

I installed one (1/4" toilet tank bolt washer) shim (each side) under the lower windshield bracket, and two more of the same (each side) between the bracket and the clear shield. It has effectively lowered the top by around one inch, allowing me to see over the top simply by straightening my back a little more. Pushing back with my feet allows me to see over it quite well. A rough estimate of tilt would be between -5 and -10 degrees.

It's just my good fortune that it happens to be raining just enough to test the results, and I'm quite pleased. I rode (helmetless) up to around 65 true miles per and found that the head-high pocket has slightly more turbulence, but that when I raised my head to see over the top of the shield, the turbulence was not noticably increased. I think the reason for that may be that the vent at the bottom of the shield is now very large, forcing easily twice as much volume of air up the inside of the shield. A big problem for me has been back pressure; I hate having cold air blow up the back of my neck. When I got back from the ride, I realized that I hadn't thought to check whether there was an improvement. Since I didn't think to check, there probably was. I cleaned the shield before reinstalling, but I didn't treat it with my Honda cleaner. Still, the rain swept off the viewing area quite well.

If it dries, I'll go back out and report back again.

Steve
 

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I did another short (25 miles) ride this evening. It rocks! The back pressure seems to have decreased by some minor amount, I was hoping for more, but the bike really cuts through the air. It's far less disturbed by oncoming truck traffic, and for some reason, my hands seem to have even less turbulence around them.

The top lip of the shield is pretty much even with my field of view, and while that sounds like it may be a distraction, in actuality, it works out just fine. I can easily look through, or over the shield with little effort for either option.

The only downside, and I don't know why it might occur, is that I seem to have a little more wind on my legs now. Of course, in the dead of summer, that might not be a totally bad thing.

Steve
 

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you all have covered adding shims or washers to the brackets for the Clearview screen to lower or raise it. I would like to lower mine about 1 inch ( do not want to cut it). I am not sure how you applied the washers to the mounting screws to get the change in position. Could someone clarify?
 

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There are mounting bolts in a pattern on the front of the windscreen. To lower the upper edge of the fairing - you want to add some soft rubber washers (hose washers, or broad flat rubber washers from a specialty parts bin) under the windscreen at the lower mounting bolts. To lower it further, put two under the mounting bracket at the lower bolts. Note - use only one washer per bolt...

This will effectively kick up the leading edge of the windscreen, and drop down the back (the top edge).

To have the upper edge of the fairing be higher, you would add to the upper windscreen mounts (under the mounts), and/or under the windscreen. This makes the windscreen more upright.

:)
 
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