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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
As I've only had the Burgman for about one year and didn't put many miles on it yet, I'm still trying to learn things.

This bike has a little bit of a weird behaviour - at very low speeds (say coming to a stop sign, and then taking off really slow), or when navigating through a parking lot - it tends to shake quite violently, almost like a manual car put in the wrong gear and about to stall.

I do have a sense it may be something to do with the clutch, but if anyone has experienced this before and can point me to a starting point to investigate, that'd be great. Minuses: female here, with limited experience in fixing transmissions and engine. Plus: I'm a little reckless brave like that, and I may risk taking some bolts off to see what's going on. If you're in the PNW area (BC / WA / OR) I could probably pay for help as well.

I'd much rather do this with someone knowledgeable rather than riding the bike into a stealership and have them fix it. First I'd learn something, and second, I have a hard time seeing my bike taken away into an area that's not accessible to customers.
 

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It may just be a matter of taking the CVT cover off to get to the clutch and then removing the clutch unit and cleaning/de-glazing. It does take some time and special tools but many members have cobbled up some cheats to make work.

Have you tried doing the "Hold both brakes and rev the engine a couple times"? You do not want to do this very long or very often to bust the glaze off the clutch bell and shoes.

A AN400 member will be along soon.

I do not have any hands on for the 400 but could work my way thru if you were closer.
 
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what dave said in previous post.

another possibility, a severely weak contra spring could let the variator/driven pulley move to higher ratio at too low of engine RPM. flipped variator sliders/rollers would could be a possibility as they wouldn't let the variator open fully and go to low ratio position.
 

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I do not have the tool to grip the cooling fins to bust that nut loose but I think I have a 53mm for the clutch side. I have a 20 ton press to push the Contra spring down.

She is just 3-5 hours ride down to me. And her job keeps her non-fluid for days off.

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How about a little more information before you start ordering tools you may or may not need. What year, how many miles on the scooter. Has it always done this? The shaking is coming from the back of the scooter? It happens as you give it gas pulling away from the line, or also as you are slowing down to make the stop?
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
What year, how many miles on the scooter. Has it always done this? The shaking is coming from the back of the scooter? It happens as you give it gas pulling away from the line, or also as you are slowing down to make the stop?
Okay, right. 2016 AN400ZA, with about 4500 kms logged. Bought it at 2500 kms from stealership last year. I think it's been increasingly noticeable for the last three or four months.

It displays the symptom in both instances (slowing down and pulling off).

If I give it quick throttle revs, it will stop shaking and somewhat glide smoother. To me it appears it manifests just at the tipping point where it switches from rolling free to clutch engaging, or when clutch is supposed to disengage and let it roll. (I have experience on manual transmissions, specifically cars, hence the analogy).
 

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With this era of 400 you have to treat the throttle as a binary beast. You are either stopped, or fully engaged and going. I would lay money that for most of this scooter's life the rider treated the throttle as a break. For example, stopped at a slight incline, give it gas to keep from rolling back. That bike has the 5 shoe clutch with updated venting going into the CVT filter. When I read your first post, I would have bet you had a 2007 w/ the 3 shoe clutch. I installed a Malossi belt w/ 19 gram tech pulley sliders on my scooter 7,000 miles ago. It's been nothing but smooth sailing since then. I also do jack rabbit starts pulling away from the line. As others have said, I believe you will find heavily glazed clutch pads when you get down in there.
 

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Rhea, try the brake and rev trick to see if it will clean up some.

Can one of the 400 owners let her know the proper way to do this, please?
 
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Rhea, try the brake and rev trick to see if it will clean up some.

Can one of the 400 owners let her know the proper way to do this, please?
it's a clutch lock up check:
  • warm up the engine to normal operating temperature.
  • apply the front and rear brakes as firm as possible AND HOLD them.
  • apply full throttle while firmly holding both brakes. DO NOT DO THIS FOR MORE THAN 3 SECONDS
  • engine RPM should be 4000-5000
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
it's a clutch lock up check:
  • warm up the engine to normal operating temperature.
  • apply the front and rear brakes as firm as possible AND HOLD them.
  • apply full throttle while firmly holding both brakes. DO NOT DO THIS FOR MORE THAN 3 SECONDS
  • engine RPM should be 4000-5000

Doesn't sound complicated. Am I looking for something in particular, or is this just a cleanup procedure?
And also, are there any risks to this? (Of course aside from exceeding the time indicated.)
 

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Doesn't sound complicated. Am I looking for something in particular, or is this just a cleanup procedure?
max engine RPM only goes to 4-5000 RPM. if it goes higher than 5500 RPM the clutch and/or clutch bell is likely wore out (excessive slipping)
And also, are there any risks to this? (Of course aside from exceeding the time indicated.)
not really. just don't do keep doing it over and over, I do it whenever the clutch starts getting grabby and barking like an elephant seal. it'll quiet down and engage much smoother for a while, but eventually just have to open the CVT and clean the glazing off the clutch shoes. my 07 still has the original 3 shoe clutch which is notorious for glazing and barking. hold the brakes so it doesn't take off unexpectedly.

as abner posted, when you ride it, don't prolong clutch slip when you takeoff from a stop. give it a firm throttle and as it stats moving you'll feel when the clutch 'locks'/stops slipping and is fully engaged, then back off the throttle a bit and it'll accelerate much smoother. prolonged clutch slipping, light throttle and trying to ride less than about 25mph/40kph slips the clutch causing it to get hot and glazing on the shoes. of course don't forget to obey the local speed limit or you may earn an achievement award from local law enforcement. :whistle:
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
max engine RPM only goes to 4-5000 RPM. if it goes higher than 5500 RPM the clutch and/or clutch bell is likely wore out (excessive slipping)
OK I need more info on this. I ride a lot of highway at 120kmh, and RPM goes to 6500 give or take. I thought it was high but it looks like I'm in more trouble than I initially thought, unless this is normal rev for the speed. For clarification, this is just me on the bike (160 pounds), with maybe 40 pounds of boxes and what little gear I keep in the trunk (cable lock, FAK, rain gear and some straps).

Or are we talking 5000 RPM for the purpose of this test?
 

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These machines are really sturdy, almost hard to break. go with the simple stuff first, the clutch de glazing by holding the brake, is the simplest and easiest, next I would try opening the belt area and cleaning out the dust with a shop vac , sometimes the rollers/sliders can get stuck due to clutch dust buildup in there , Mitchs videos are an essentiial to opening that area the first time , and if there's still a metal washer/gasket between the 2 pieces of the casing . you will need an extra refreshin beverage and a small advance on next months badwords ration to deal with it, Not hard just aggravating (and useless imho) Do the emergency seat release mod while you got the tool box out, you won't regret it and it only takes 5 minutes,
A service manual is gonna be a great friend, will save you tons of money, give you lots of confidence and if you get one now it won't be scarce and hard to acquire in the future.
You will be getting into that area lots of times in the future to clean the dust, change the belt final drive oil change etcetc
If I remember correctly and both of mine were 08 models so things may be different, get a hunk of cardboard about the same size as the cover, poke holes in the cardboard in the appropriate places and as you remove them little bolts put them in the holes in the cardboard so you know which bolt goes in which hole as some of them are different lengths

please don't forget to post your fix when you are done, us old riders like to read them and new ones learn from them/
 

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From experience, the first time I tore into the CVT innards, didn't hold the variator halves tightly when assembling...
A roller was stuck...
So the bike started out in "high" gear
It was unpleasant
 
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