[Dave_J]

I am having intermittent issues with my Magic Blinker's. I had a problem in the past of one side going dim at times. Now I have figured out a fix, I think, and its kind of cheap too.

I just ordered 5 of 30A SPDT relays (5 pin) that are "Normally Closed" meaning power flows thru it until its inergized, then it goes open cutting power flow. I will use it to control my mirror blinkers without any other device. A "Magic Blinker" is just a normaly closed transistor that the blinkers power switches on, cutting the power feed to the bulbs. Most people do not know there are normaly closed relays as 99% of them are normaly open and supply power only when inergized. :thumbup: SHHHHHHHH don't tell anyone. If I can find my junk box of relays, there are about 6 in there. I will do the mod and post the results. Oh, you could also use pin 87 to wire up some side marker LED's that will blink off time of the front ones. I recommend LED bulbs and a LED turnsignal relay too.

I'm one fart smeller, OHH, I mean Smart Feller.

[attachment=0:1v2lylcc]SPDT.jpg[/attachment:1v2lylcc]

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007M4 ... V63FA3VJED

 

[Dave_J]

Ok just to tidy this up.

I would cut my blinker wire to the bulb and put that power side to pins 86 and run pin 85 to ground. That way when the blinker on that side powers up it will energize the relay.

Pin 30 will get ignition switched 12 V + and 87a will give that 12V+ to the LED in my mirror's turnsignal, making "FULL TIME" running lights.

It takes 1 relay per side so two are needed.

You could also wire in a third relay, a SPST 4 pin so that the ignition powers it on at pin 86 and ground on 85, but the pin 30 runs right from the battery.

There is no resistive load seen by the factory turnsignal flasher so the system will think the bulbs are burnt out and FLASH fast. This is why I recommend a LED flasher be wired in its place.

 

[v8eyedoc]

Another "FIX" for that problem is this: AND MUCH EASIER AND C H E A P E R http://hidlightsusa.ecrater.com/p/13785 ... istor-turn














categories > LED Replacement Bulbs > LED Load Resistor (1)







LED Bulbs Load Resistor Turn Signal Fix 6 ohm 50W 1157 3157 7440 7443 NEW



Price: $9.99



Shipping: US-Mainland: $5.99 (more destinations)


Condition: Brand new

Payment Options: Money Order, Cashier's Check,



Brand New
Pairs (2 pcs) of LED Load Resistor Kit

If you’ve replaced the regular indicator or tail light bulbs on your car with brighter LED bulbs, you may find the new bulbs are either flashing too quickly or are blowing.

Regular bulbs have less resistance than LED bulbs so the simple way to solve these problems is by fitting a resistor parallel to each side (2 bulbs).

The resistor needs to be wired to the ground and turn/tail wires of each side and once installed will:
Correct too-fast flashing
Stop bulbs blowing
Turn Signal Fix
This 6 Ohm, 50 Watt resistors can be connected across the turn signal bulbs to simulate the load of a regular filament bulb (2 Amp load). This will solve LED related turn signal problems such as hyper flashing, no flashing or burnt out bulb indications. One resistor is required for each turn signal bulb. Includes gel filled moisture resistant splice taps.

Installation Instructions:
Using included splice taps, connect one wire to ground and the other wire to the turn/brake wire. You don't have to cut your car's wiring. Squeeze slice taps with pliers. One Load Resistor required for each turn signal bulb.

Kit Includes:
1 Pairs of (2 prewired Resistors(6Ohm, 50W), and 4 Slice Taps)

Brand New
2 Pairs (4 pcs) of LED Load Resistor Kit

If you’ve replaced the regular indicator or tail light bulbs on your car with brighter LED bulbs, you may find the new bulbs are either flashing too quickly or are blowing.

Regular bulbs have less resistance than LED bulbs so the simple way to solve these problems is by fitting a resistor parallel to each side (2 bulbs).

The resistor needs to be wired to the ground and turn/tail wires of each side and once installed will:
Correct too-fast flashing
Stop bulbs blowing
Turn Signal Fix
This 6 Ohm, 50 Watt resistors can be connected across the turn signal bulbs to simulate the load of a regular filament bulb (2 Amp load). This will solve LED related turn signal problems such as hyper flashing, no flashing or burnt out bulb indications. One resistor is required for each turn signal bulb. Includes gel filled moisture resistant splice taps.

Installation Instructions:
Using included splice taps, connect one wire to ground and the other wire to the turn/brake wire. You don't have to cut your car's wiring. Squeeze slice taps with pliers. One Load Resistor required for each turn signal bulb.

Kit Includes:
2 Pairs of (2 prewired Resistors(6Ohm, 50W), and 4 Slice Taps)

Brand New
2 Pairs (4 pcs) of LED Load Resistor Kit

If you’ve replaced the regular indicator or tail light bulbs on your car with brighter LED bulbs, you may find the new bulbs are either flashing too quickly or are blowing.

Regular bulbs have less resistance than LED bulbs so the simple way to solve these problems is by fitting a resistor parallel to each side (2 bulbs).

The resistor needs to be wired to the ground and turn/tail wires of each side and once installed will:
Correct too-fast flashing
Stop bulbs blowing
Turn Signal Fix
This 6 Ohm, 50 Watt resistors can be connected across the turn signal bulbs to simulate the load of a regular filament bulb (2 Amp load). This will solve LED related turn signal problems such as hyper flashing, no flashing or burnt out bulb indications. One resistor is required for each turn signal bulb. Includes gel filled moisture resistant splice taps.

Installation Instructions:
Using included splice taps, connect one wire to ground and the other wire to the turn/brake wire. You don't have to cut your car's wiring. Squeeze slice taps with pliers. One Load Resistor required for each turn signal bulb.

Kit Includes:
2 Pairs of (2 prewired Resistors(6Ohm, 50W), and 4 Slice Taps)

Testimonial:

I install the light into my truck; however, it flashed on and off repeatedly. So I call hidlightsusa.com.
They offer me the load resistor, the problem solve on my new truck

 

[cliffyk]

The "no such thing as a free lunch" caveat about using the ballast resistors with LEDs is that it defeats one of the benefits of using LEDs--lower power consumption. This is because the resistors in simulating the load of the incandescent lamps also "simulate" the power consumption of the incandescents.

LED rated flashers do not need the ballast resistors...

 

[Dave_J]

That is the big issue I had when I first wires my Magic Blinkers to my mirrors incandescent bulbs, too fast of flash so I bought two 20 watt ballast resistors and wired them in. So not only did I add the wattage of the two P21's up front but the two 20 watt resistors too for a total of 82 watts. I found the LED flasher at SuperbrightLED for like $7, wired it in, removed the ballast resistors and the incandescent bulbs and installed two 18 chip LED bulbs. That is a savings of 80 watts.

The ballast resistors get smoken hot and need to be isolated away form everything. I mounted them on my fairing frame and it burnt the paint off. If I got stuck at a light for awhile you could smell them.

Granted the load of the ballast resistors are only when the blinker is on, it also when the RPMs are low and the stator output is also low. The wattage is really like one P21 on full time, one ballast resistor on part time and one P21 on part time but I could see my headlight dim when the blinker was on. And on 4 way it is all 82 watts when the bulbs flash.

IMHO why go thru the hassle of wiring in two ballasts when you can wire in a LED flasher?

 

[cliffyk]

<snip>The ballast resistors get smoken hot and need to be isolated away form everything. I mounted them on my fairing frame and it burnt the paint off. If I got stuck at a light for awhile you could smell them.</snip>

Yup, 27 W dissipated 100% as heat energy is quite a bit of power--go wrap your hand around a 25 W soldering iron if you doubt that. In the incandescent lamps much of the 27 W is dissipated as visible light...

 

[Dave_J]

My STDP relays arrived but its a bit late to do the wiring and photos. Heres the Figure of how these "Single-Throw Double-Pole" relays work again. The colors are the wires going to that pin. You can wire the power to flow ether forwards or backwards thru these, it mattes not.

[attachment=0:y81exclu]SPDT.jpg[/attachment:y81exclu]

I have some options when I wire them:

1) I could just use them to control my turnsignals (in on Pin 30 out to Pin 87a)

2) wire them to do #1 and turn on a buzzer, led, side lights or any combo of these. (add out wire to Pin 87)

3)backwards wire them with a resistor on the the pin going to the bulbs to dim them down as running lights and then when they energize the other pin will allow full 12V's to flow for brighter flash. (in on Pin 87a with resistor, and switched full 12V in on Pin 87, both feed out to Pin 30 see SPDT figure above.) Kinda of defeats the bulbs on full time by a bit.

I will do option 1 or 2. But if you wanted to run incandescent bulbs and cool them down some, option 3 may work.

I know pictures are worth more, will get to them soon.

 

[Dave_J]

Well I wired in the two relays and removed the Magic Blinkers. Works just the same, but now both sides are as bright. No pictures as my camera is taking blurry pic's. I will try to find my pic's of the Magic Blinker install, and list what wire goes to each. Very easy to do this mod.

 

[Dave_J]

Today I wired two SPDT relays into my sons Ninja 500. Now both front and rear turnsignals are lit all the time. By wiring it this way it only uses the factorys two wires and the single pin socket for a 1156/P21 type bulb. He was going to try to find 4 ea two pin sockets that would fit the Ninja's stalks. No need doing it this way. This is a fix for the AN400 with the two pin sockets that are not wired.

 

[TheDarkCutlass]

was actually looking at these magic blinkers once I got my 650. However also looked at the amount of failures. Found a post on one of the sport bike forums about using 2 rectifier diodes to do the exact same thing. I'm fairly good with electronics, but fail to understand how the diodes would control the flash. I think I'm going to try that route though as it would only cost about $5 total. If that fails, I'll be going with the relays like you did.

And to poke fun at your relay joke, I knew about them too after wiring up fog lights to my car. Needed to have a way when the high beams were turned on, the fog lights would turn off, found those nifty normally closed relays that way