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Probably a dumb question that could be answered if I would read the manual. Here goes. If your battery dies, how do you release the seat latch on a 650
 

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The seat latch is operated by a mechanical cable that snakes its way from the ignition switch to the release mechanism and does not require battery power. Pushing and turning the key pulls on the cable.

Cheers,

Bob
 

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Your welcome to thank him, but I think he had very little to do with it. :)
How do you open the seat when the cable get loose or breaks.
:wink:
 

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I can't remember where, but I do recall reading about a mod. to install a backup cable release that runs to the back, just in case of a cable break.
Sorry I can't remember where I saw it but I know it is do able.
 

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Randy said:
How do you open the seat when the cable get loose or breaks.
:wink:
That poor soul who would be so unfortunate will probably spend most of the day getting the bike disassembled enough to find the cable somewhere "in there" and pull it to release the latch. Either that or visit to the shop that will undoubtedly produce a fat labor bill.

One of the gripes I have on the Burgman is that the opening mechanism for the trunk is located right at the ignition switch. How many times has it been that during the process of warming-up the bike before a ride, and then for one reason or another need to open the trunk - I then have to turn the engine off in order to open the trunk -- and then re-start again.

I wish Suzuki had an "easy-open" switch located elsewhere on the bike.
 

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Randy said:
How do you open the seat when the cable get loose or breaks.
There was one reported instance of cable breakage in the Yahoo forum last year. A guy came up with a good preventative solution. I've been meaning to do this - glad the topic came up to remind me.

Here you go -

"Open your trunk and take the two allen bolts out of the latch mechanism. Once that is done , slide a piece of picture wire
(braided fine wire used to hang pictures) under the opening
from the ( right side) muffler side towards the latch . Loop it over the
catch and twist it until it will hold on that end . Allow the wire to come
alongside the seat about 6 inches and create another loop . Tuck it under
the rubber seat gasket and make sure you can reach it with your fingers .
Re-install the mechanism and you are done. The added benefit is that you can get into the trunk while the engine is running (while on the center stand).
No drilling ,no special tools , no problem ."
 

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Now that's what you call "Yankee ingenuity"
You may lose the locking ability but if the cable is hidden who knows,
(I won't tell anyone). :wink:
 

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Jim said:
Thanks Paul, my memory is still good, just short
Jim
Ha! If we had to rely on my memory we'd be in trouble. I had saved that post in my "Burgman" folder, knowing it would be useful. That was one advantage of the Yahoo group - you could receive the posts by email and file the ones you wanted to save. But the bickering and other nonsense got out of hand, so I left the party.
 

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Hey Paul thanks for the seat latch mod tip. I will look at doing that tommorrow. I've also had the engine warmed up to realize my gloves were in the trunk......Hmmmmm I guess thats what glove boxes are for..........but wait..........I still need to turn the bike off to use the key to open the friggin glove box.
 

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I don't usually put anything valuable in the glovebox, so I leave it
unlocked - it normally just has my cleaning stuff in it. But I keep my
riding gear in the Givi trunk, and that key is on the same key ring as
the ignition key. So, If I forget to retrieve my sunglasses or gloves, I
have the same problem.

I bought a roll of picture hanging wire this evening. I will probably
attempt to hook up that auxiliary latch release cable tomorrow also.

I've only heard of that one case of cable failure, but I don't want to be the second case and have no way to get into the trunk. I don't think the security issue is too serious, because the cable will be hidden.
 

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There where 2 or 3 people with that problem one of which did the same thing but ran the wire under the body so you need to look up under to see it and releae it ...

Also I think someone used a solenoid with remote to release it without using key ...

Greg ...
 

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I did the auxiliary latch release modification today. It was a little difficult getting my big fingers to route the wire around the catch post, but a set of needlenose pliers helped get the job done.

It works! And it doesn't seem to interfere at all with the operation of the remote cable / key activation.

The two allen bolts that secure the latch mechanism were very tight. I
think maybe they were secured with something like locktite blue. I'll keep my eye on them, and if they begin to loosen, I'll put a dab of locktite blue on them.

Now that I've done this, the remote activated cable will probably never break...
 

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allwalk said:
Hey Paul thanks for the seat latch mod tip. I will look at doing that tommorrow. I've also had the engine warmed up to realize my gloves were in the trunk......Hmmmmm I guess thats what glove boxes are for..........but wait..........I still need to turn the bike off to use the key to open the friggin glove box.
:idea: Just clip an extra key on your key ring. Problem solved. :)
 

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Speaking of keys... What is with this trend to make keys so darn long??? Who asked for an ignition key that is 4" (100mm) long??? Even my Ford Taurus key is 3 1/4 inches long...

One problem with this is that they bend easily. I have accidentally bent my Burgman key by sitting on it (after stowing it in the back pocket of my jeans).

Pretty soon airlines will classify these keys as weapons, and confiscate them during the boarding scan... :dontknow:
 

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My friend (sss) on this forum, who just bought a 650 Burgman two weeks ago, showed me his key yesterday. It is bent from the pressure he has to exert to get the latch to release.

I told him about the wire fix. In the meantime I suggested fastening something next to the latch mechanism about 1" thick to prevent the seat from latching. I also suggested pushing down on the seat when trying to release the latch.

I'll e-mail him right now and tell him to read all of your suggestions.
 

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The wire bypass is a good idea, and I'm happy that I did it. But your friend has a problem. Either wrong technique, or his latch is out of adjustment, or he is over packing the trunk (which would exert upward pressure on the seat making the latch difficult to release). In the latter situation, reaching back with your other hand and pressing down on the rear of the seat would make the latch release work easier.

I've never heard of anyone bending their key from trying to operate the remote latch release before. I'd look for the root cause of the problem, resolve it, then install the wire bypass as a contingency measure.

Note: I still use the remote release all the time. I rigged the wire so that it cannot be easily used without unlocking and removing my Givi tail trunk (so it is at least semi-secure). So for me, it is strictly peace of mind as a contingency measure if the remote latch release fails.
 

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Ted,

I, at times, have a problem getting the trunk to open on my AN400. Feels like I'm about to bend the key. Have your friend press down on the back of the seat to make sure the latch is securely closed and then try opening it again. It should them open correctly.
 
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