Seat latch release
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5,363 Posts
Buzzard,
Welcome to the BugmanUSA forum! There may be a bit too much slack in the cable. Someone else had the problem a little while ago and posted a fix:
Post from sss: "Me again. The problem with my bent key/seat release was too much play in the cable. The fix consisted of sawing a notch in a size 8-32 nut and inserting the nut over the cable between its stamped end and the latch such that about 3/16 on an inch of slack are removed from the cable. Squeezing the nut with a large pliers closes the notch and keeps the nut from coming off the cable."
You can also rig up a bypass using picture hanger wire - I have done that, and it works well. It also provides a way into the trunk if the main release cable breaks.
A previous post from me (originally from the Yahoo Burgman group).
"Open your trunk and take the two allen bolts out of the latch mechanism. Once that is done , slide a piece of picture wire
(braided fine wire used to hang pictures) under the opening
from the ( right side) muffler side towards the latch . Loop it over the
catch and twist it until it will hold on that end . Allow the wire to come
alongside the seat about 6 inches and create another loop . Tuck it under
the rubber seat gasket and make sure you can reach it with your fingers .
Re-install the mechanism and you are done. The added benefit is that you can get into the trunk while the engine is running (while on the center stand).
No drilling ,no special tools , no problem ."
Welcome to the BugmanUSA forum! There may be a bit too much slack in the cable. Someone else had the problem a little while ago and posted a fix:
Post from sss: "Me again. The problem with my bent key/seat release was too much play in the cable. The fix consisted of sawing a notch in a size 8-32 nut and inserting the nut over the cable between its stamped end and the latch such that about 3/16 on an inch of slack are removed from the cable. Squeezing the nut with a large pliers closes the notch and keeps the nut from coming off the cable."
You can also rig up a bypass using picture hanger wire - I have done that, and it works well. It also provides a way into the trunk if the main release cable breaks.
A previous post from me (originally from the Yahoo Burgman group).
"Open your trunk and take the two allen bolts out of the latch mechanism. Once that is done , slide a piece of picture wire
(braided fine wire used to hang pictures) under the opening
from the ( right side) muffler side towards the latch . Loop it over the
catch and twist it until it will hold on that end . Allow the wire to come
alongside the seat about 6 inches and create another loop . Tuck it under
the rubber seat gasket and make sure you can reach it with your fingers .
Re-install the mechanism and you are done. The added benefit is that you can get into the trunk while the engine is running (while on the center stand).
No drilling ,no special tools , no problem ."
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39 Posts
When I first got my Burgman, I thought I had this problem. The key tuned but sometimes I did not hear the latch "pop". I found the latch had actually opened but did not make the noise. So now when this happens, I reach and lift the back of the seat as I turn the key and it opens. Lately it hasn't done it. It has been "popping" open consistantly.
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62 Posts
Only time I've had a problem with the release was when I tried to stuff too much stiff in there. I have developed the habit, now, of pushing down on the rear of the seat while I turn the key. No problems after I started that.
Seat latch
:?: I tried installing the picture wire fix for the seat release but I'm not sure where to connect the picture wire. Is it at the peg where the actuating cable is fastened? If so, it is a tough job getting the wire around the peg and then twisting a loop. Not much room there. Or, am I doing it all wrong? HELP!
:?: I tried installing the picture wire fix for the seat release but I'm not sure where to connect the picture wire. Is it at the peg where the actuating cable is fastened? If so, it is a tough job getting the wire around the peg and then twisting a loop. Not much room there. Or, am I doing it all wrong? HELP!
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20,111 Posts
2 allen screws can be removed to get you more access to the peg. I wraped around the peg and cable allowing for clearences, the routed it to the rear fender behind the license plate. I did have to take off the backrest and rear fender to get at it properly. I was rainning again that day so I had plenty of time to putz with it.
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5,363 Posts
Gino,
I looped it around that peg. I removed those two allen bolts and slid out the latch mechanism, which gave me enough room to do it. Then I just bolted the latch mechanism back in place, tested it, and ran the cable out the side under the seat. I didn't get as fancy as Jim ('cause it wasn't raining the day I did it :wink: )
I looped it around that peg. I removed those two allen bolts and slid out the latch mechanism, which gave me enough room to do it. Then I just bolted the latch mechanism back in place, tested it, and ran the cable out the side under the seat. I didn't get as fancy as Jim ('cause it wasn't raining the day I did it :wink: )
:sign10:
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34 Posts
Did you guys wrap the wire around the same peg that the cable is attached to from the key. I tried that on mine and it would not allow the mechanism to coompletely latch when I tried to close the trunk. It looke like it was keeping the latch from going all the way down cause it was getting in the way. I took it back off and it latches correctly again. So I may be putting the wire in the wrong place?
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