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Discussion Starter #1
So, I put my water supply in the trunk as I always have done since my first ride with this bike, and I forgot to put my gym bag in there as well. So, I went to open it as it always does with the key, and snap. It all of a sudden let go and has no pressure what so ever when pushed in and turned. I found on here the way of taking off the small piece of plastic on the backrest and pulling the cord to get it to release. And it did, but still won’t work with the key. So my question is, how do I fix this? I took off the middle piece on the dash hoping I could even see or feel the line and it looks to be further back then I thought. Is this all ove chord? or is it a metal cord inside a plastic tube that needs to be rerouted? Could I tie the ends together and pull it through to avoid taking all the body work off? Thanks for any help with this.
 

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You need the cable called "CABLE, SEAT LOCK MODEL K3", part number 45280-14G10. For some reason it is a different number than the 2004-2006. The part isn't too expensive {part #3 in this diagram}- http://www.partsfish.com/oemparts/a/suz/508c0314f870020498e367b8/seat-support-bracket

The technical name for this kind of cable is a "Bowden Cable"{I am sure named after some guy with the last name Bowden}. It has a inner cable that moves back and forth inside an outer jacket. In your case the inner cable has snapped someplace, or one of the ends has popped off. You can sometimes re-solder an end but it is tricky{I had to do it a lot when I owned a lawn care business - darn trimmer throttles!}.

I don't know if your idea of snaking the cable through would work. The panels are not that hard to remove and you may not have to remove them completely, just enough to get the old cable out and the new one in. Besides the parts diagram shows a zip tie clamp so I bet it holds that cable in place.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Now, how do I get to the back of the ignition switch housing? Thats really the main part I’m stuck with. Also, does anyone think its possible that it just slipped loose and can be put back the way it was? Guess I’m just hoping here.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks for the photos. That helps explain that a lot more. I like it, but I'm paranoid that just anyone can walk up and unlock my bike. Looks like I can just re run the cable and it won't be too hard. Just a pain though. In looking at how the ends are and how it's constructed, could I have one made at an industrial place so it's not as cheap and easily broken?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
In looking at it, I could add a solenoid to open it up. Pretty cheap to do. But, what electricity could I hook into that's always hot?
 

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If you are going to put the solenoid at the back of the bike and you want a wire that is always hot you are pretty much going to have to run a wire from the battery all the way to the back. I don't know of any wires back there that are always hot.

To get to the ignition switch you are going to have to remove at least the front leg shield and maybe the front box too. The manual does say to remove the front box but you might be able to reach the cable connector from beneath with the front leg shield removed.
 

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Wire directly to the battery or put a smaller battery in the trunk.

If it were me I would replace the cable. As for getting to the front access point, you have to pull of plastic panels. it isn't a lot of fun but it is the way to do it.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I pulled off the front leg shield pretty easily, but still can quite get to the cable point on the ignition housing. Do I really need to pull the whole dash?
 

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The manual says you will need to go further than that and pull the front box. That is the piece that large glove box and fuel door are in. I'm not sure you will have to go that far though. Since you can't get to it with the leg shield off you may get by with just removing the rear meter panel (dash). You have to take that piece off before you can pull the front box so go one step at a time until you get to where you can reach what you need to.

You are likely going to have to remove the front box anyway to be able to route the new cable along the frame. The cable runs along the frame under the box and is clamped to it in several places. Before all is said and done you are likely going to have to remove most of the bodywork down the right side of the bike.
 

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It is good that Suzuki made it hard to get to this part. If it only required a few screws people could easily bust into your trunk.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Well, it is overly easy to get in if you know how. It's just the small piece of plastic you take off and pull the chord. It actually scares me how easy it is to get into.
 

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<P>Hello everyone.</P>
<P>I was able to resolve my seat latch problem (cable was rusted and broken) Please see the pictures I am posting,, that will help understand what I did .<IMG src="http://postimg.org/image/82l0i6fm9/][img=http://s16.postimg.org/82l0i6fm9/WP_20150304_008.jpg][/url]"></P>
 

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Here is a quick answer to solving seat latch problem, mine was broken (rusted)
Hope the pictures will explain how I solved the problem

 

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<a href='http://postimg.org/image/82l0i6fm9/' target='_blank'><img src='http://s16.postimg.org/82l0i6fm9/WP_20150304_008.jpg' border='0' alt="WP 20150304 008" /></a>
 
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