[LeDude]

The 650 left me stranded once more, 12 miels away from home, this time at a gas station.

[attachment=0:2jbydww6]dead 650 06082013.jpg[/attachment:2jbydww6]
Everything was going well as I continued to break in the CVT and was nearing the 500 miles mark.

Decided to take the scoot this morning to run some errands and after a few mile son the highway at
a steady 4k RPM / 65 MPH, I decided to get off the highway and refuel at a station where I often stop.

Everything was running well and the dash was behaving normally while under power.
As I entered the gas station and slowed down to came to a stop, I noticed that my dash went blank, except for the
clock.

The engine continued to run. Thinking that it was a parked by a fuel pump and turned off the scoot.
Tried right away to turn it back on but no joy, dead dash.

Engine would not turn when the start button was pushed.

The horn would not work either.

My headlights, HIDs would come on.

The clocked stayed on.

My onboard voltmeter would show 11.9v.

Switched to parked position and the right / left turn signals would come on individually or together
if I pushed the hazard button.

Pulled the scoot to the side and did a quick field check of the following:

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- Main fuse / CVT Fuse (took them out and checked both, replaced with spare)

- Checked all remaining fuses, they were all ok.

- Disconnected and reconnected battery.

The clock came back on, as did the headlights, no dash function whatsover, total black out.

Took handlebar and front panel off and disconnected HIDs.

On board voltmeter would show 12.4v.

Still no joy, dead dashboard and no contact of any kind.

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After spending an hour or two going over everyting, it became clear that I was stranded once more.
Was able to find a great towe company with a great driver who knew exactly how to towe a bike.

Three hours later and $135.00 poorer, the 650 back back in the garage.

Now I can use all the suggestion and possible things to check that you guys can think of?
I have started sifting through past threads to educate myself as I recall a few similar instances.

Total bummer as I was planning to go on a nice long ride tomorrow... good thing it broke down today.

I field tested the battery with a portable stick battery tester and it showed a full charge.
This motobat battery sat for a year on a trickle charger but hasn't shown any signs of having gone bad.

Got to get out the service manual again and start pouring through the electrical section.

Thanks for your help and suggestions. :roll: :?

 

[convertfromVespa]

I have had the lcd dash go out on my concours a couple of times on hot days. Apparently, my problem was that the dash got too hot. It still worked but was blank. After covering it to allow it to cool, it would function properly.

 

[MJR]

That sucks, sorry to hear. For sure check the Signal fuse to the left of the glove box. My first thoughts are battery or charging system. Having voltage is different than current to run stuff.

 

[LeDude]

That sucks, sorry to hear. For sure check the Signal fuse to the left of the glove box. My first thoughts are battery or charging system. Having voltage is different than current to run stuff.

what would cause the dash to go out completely ...

Went through every single fuse on the scoot, they all looked good.
Will double check them again.

Battery is about two years old, sat for a year on a trickle charger.
Voltmeter would show 13.8-14.2 v when fully operational and running

I am going to need all the help I can get on this one as I am not the savviest electrical dude out there.

 

[cliffyk]

My first suspect would be the battery.

What is the battery voltage with no load? It should be 12.6 V if fully charged--anything less then it is either not charged or has a bad cell. If you have to charge it wait an hour or so before checking the no load voltage. If you have access to a variable load tester place a 40 A load on it for 15 seconds, it should hold at least 10.5 V.

 

[LeDude]

My first suspect would be the battery.

What is the battery voltage with no load? It should be 12.6 V if fully charged--anything less then it is either not charged or has a bad cell. If you have to charge it wait an hour or so before checking the no load voltage. If you have access to a variable load tester place a 40 A load on it for 15 seconds, it should hold at least 10.5 V.

thanks, I will take it to a shop and have them load test it properly.
my onboard voltmeter shows 11.9v with HIDs on, 12.4 v without the HIDs.

while the scoot was running, it was showing 13.4-14.2v on the voltmeter.

I am a bit puzzled by the complete dash black out and no starter funciton and no horn.

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couldn't sit still, so I went into the garage and put the voltmeter on the battery and it showed 12.8 v without the ignition on.

 

[cliffyk]

11.9, 12.2 are not good for a battery that should have been fully charged. Were you able to monitor the voltage while trying to start it?

The horn is a straight electro-mechanical interface/device--it is the stock horn right?--which does not require a whole lot of current making it odd that it would not sound assuming the fuses are OK. Dead/failing cells can be weird though, providing close to normal voltage under very light loads and then contributing nothing as the load increases.

My '03 400 draws an initial load of 58.4 A tapering off to 15.6 A while the fuel pump is priming, then 13.2 A with just the lights, ECM, etc. I am sure the 650 is not dissimilar, that big initial load could be pulling the voltage low enough to glitch the instrument cluster and ECM...

The lower trace (blue) was recorded using a 10 mV/amp DC current clamp. The upper trace (red) is battery voltage, you can see that the voltage dropped 2.8 V or so on the initial surge then recovered 2.0 V of that within 100 ms...

 

[LeDude]

11.9, 12.2 are not good for a battery that should have been fully charged. Were you able to monitor the voltage while trying to start it?

I can't start the bike, the dash is dead, nothing happens when I push the starter button.
The headlights come on, that's about it and the clock is on.
No turn signals either unless I switch to the parked mode.
I don't hear the fuel pump either.

 

[cliffyk]

It could of course be a wiring problem (broken/shorted wire or bad/loose connector), however making sure the battery is good is still the best place to start...

 

[Ken]

Based on your voltage while running, charging system is probably OK but battery voltage when off is a little low. I suspect it is a battery problem which is the easiest to check and fix. In my opinion, having the battery on a trickle charger for a year probably did not do the battery any good. I think it would have been better to check the battery every few months and when it showed about a 75% charge, then charge it slowly to bring it back to 100% which would have only taken an over night trickle charge.

If not the battery, check for any loose connections that may be restricting current. I haven't looked at the wiring diagram and maybe someone else would know if a faulty ignition switch could cause such a problem. Just thinking and good luck.

 

[Ken]

I don't hear the fuel pump either.

If my memory is correct, there is a fuse that supplies the fuel pump and it also supplies current to several other places and again, memory seems to remember a blank dash when that fuse blows.

 

[Ken]

MJR is right on that it could be the signal fuse. Here is the topic that seems to be about the symptoms you are having. viewtopic.php?f=4&t=59909&p=564649&hilit=fuel+pump+fuse+display#p564649

 

[LeDude]

Problem solved... it was the 15 Amp turn signal fuse, I somehow managed not to see the rupture inside it.

Thanks to all that took the time to scramble their brains and come up with suggestions and ideas, it is greatly appreciated.

It sure was nice to hear those familiar start up sounds and the dash coming back to live and the tach zipping back and forth.

I had my right turn signal on when I made the turn into the gas station and everything went blank after that.

I know where the source of the problem lies, it is something I did by adding LED turn signal reminders, I will have to check
the wiring on those guys.

Moral of the story, if your dash goes blank, your horn doesn't work and your turn signals are dead, it's a pretty good chance that
the turn signal fuse is blown. Just be sure to wear your reading glasses when you stare and inspect those little suckers.

Again, many thanks to one and all, you all made my day/night.

that was a very expensive little fuse at $135.00, the towe truck guy was great though.

all the best.... the Burgman grin is back.... :thumbup: :lol:

PS: Reading those old threads helps a lot as far as learning from other's experiences. Not sure if they are still updating the knowledge base with them.
I will put together a short DIY relating to my experience and put on my Burgman Center.

 

[cliffyk]

Great to hear!!!

For future reference, visual inspection of fuses is a less than perfect exercise--check them for continuity or just swap 'em out with a known good fuse to be sure...

 

[Dave_J]

Kory does not come on here much lately. The Knowledge base is not getting updated.

 

[model28a]

LeDude :thumbup: great to hear you are back on the road again and it was no more than a fuse. :cheers:

Cliff, I agree 100% on the visual inspection of fuses. I have seen fuses look good but still be bad more than once. Now I always use a test light or a voltmeter to check fuses.

Great to hear!!!

For future reference, visual inspection of fuses is a less than perfect exercise--check them for continuity or just swap 'em out with a known good fuse to be sure...

 

[MJR]

Problem solved... it was the 15 Amp turn signal fuse, I somehow managed not to see the rupture inside it.

that was a very expensive little fuse at $135.00, the tow truck guy was great though.

Glad you found the fuse and know where the problem is now. Actually that tow bill is quite cheap compared to mine years ago on a Saturday ride to Kennedy Meadows with a group when I hit a pothole splitting my front rim open. The tow bill was $410 from the Black Rock Ranger Station to Ridgecrest. viewtopic.php?f=4&t=8939

 

[ErikDK]

LeDude: Could you edit your OP to include a "spoiler": "Culprit was the 15A sgnal fuse"?

 

[NormanB]

Le Dude, sorry I am late to this BUT if I had been in time I would have bet your pay check that it was the signal fuse.

I had mine go whilst on a tour, same symptoms and same cause. Cause I had fitted aftermarket horns and my wiring or the routing of it had been below par.

It was this experience that reaffirmed my view that the only way to test fuses was with a meter on continuity.

The moral of the story is if you are doing electical system mods and suffer problems late it is a probably a self inflicted wound. :lol:

 

[TwoWheelTim]

And really, he almost had it, by replacing fuses in mass whilst in the field. I have made sure my on-board stock is complete with spares.

Also I wasn't buying the battery thing since it was still running until shutdown. Which means the starting circuit was disabled, not the running circuit.

So happy the problem was found, this is a great resource.

PS. Is there a thread on updating the knowledge base? I would like to submit some additions for review.

Tim