[bikerdoc]

I've found my 2007 AN650 Exec, has an issue with the RHS brake pin (#9 PIN 59145-21E10) that I'm hopeful someone might be able to offer some advice with.

Background:
I proposed to change out my front brake pads on the scoot last week, as the set were just about worn down to the metal. Managed to get the RHS off, without any problems, replaced the pads, and tidied everything up before buttoning everything back together. Then proceeded to repeat the procedure on the LHS. That's where my problems began.

I found that the retaining pin bolt that secures the lower portion of the pads in place within the caliper housing is seized in place. I firstly removed the small securing plug that protects the head of the locking pin bolt. Once exposed using the Allen key attempted to remove the pin bolt, but it wouldn't budge. I sprayed pin bolt head area liberally with some WD40 making sure not to contaminate the current pads and then attempted again, but sill couldn't get the pin bolt to loosen. Repeated these steps numerous times, to no avail. All that seemed to occur was that I inadvertently stripped the head of the pin bolt using the correct size Allen key, so now the Allen key just turns in the head of the pin bolt. I tried using various types of vice grips on the shaft of the pin bolt to try and turn it, to no avail.

Possible solution:
I have a replacement pin bolt & plug so I can trash the old pin bolt, once I remove it. It's the method on how to remove the pin bolt that is the issue... how?

I'd proposed to hacksaw the body of the pin bolt off, then using a small sized drill bit, drill down the middle of the pin bolt head, then when through simply pry away at what'd be left of the pin bolt head within the thread, likely using a small flat head screw driver of the correct size and fit would be enough to get the thread turning.

Clean everything up, replace pads and then replace the pin bolt with the new one.

Question:
My question is, would there be a better method to get the pin bolt out? Anyone have any experience with this?

 

[NormanB]

if you have a propane torch try a bit of heat to the steel pin it may loosen it up a bit but be very careful not to heat the aluminium caliper.

 

[MJR]

Have you tried a good rust penetrant? If you cut just enough to get the pads out you could use some locking pliers (Vise-Grips) to maybe get the rest out.

 

[bikerdoc]

if you have a propane torch try a bit of heat to the steel pin it may loosen it up a bit but be very careful not to heat the aluminium caliper.

Thanks for the response. I myself don't have a propane torch, but I've few riding buddies who have their own manufacturing shops that specialise in metal fabrication of various products, one does bespoke type items. I'm sure on of them would have a propane torch. Worth a shot...

 

[bikerdoc]

Have you tried a good rust penetrant? If you cut just enough to get the pads out you could use some locking pliers (Vise-Grips) to maybe get the rest out.

Thanks for the reply. I used WD40 (imported into mainland China) and sprayed that liberally though carefully around the head of the pin bolt and left it for a period of time, before trying to continue removing the pin bolt. Still wouldn't budge. I have all types of vice grips with adjustable locking mechanisms, and one pair which have a narrow set of jaws that were able to fit in between the bottom of the brake pads and purchase well onto the shaft of the pin bolt. Trouble is the shaft of the pin bolt is round, so all attempts with various vice grips, saw the vice grips spin round on the pin bolt shaft. I'd need to file away at the shaft of the pin bolt to give it a couple of flat surfaces to make this method work.

I think that I may have stripped the head of the pin bolt early on, as I didn't have the best of lighting conditions in the garage at the time, and may have had the Allen key in the head of the pin bolt at an slight angle rather completely aligned correctly. By the time I'd realised it was probably too late, as the damage to the head was already done. So as much operator error as anything else.

Was also thinking about getting an "easy out" broken bolt removal tool and giving that a try.

 

[NormanB]

What has worked for me once or twice.

1. Get a hex head socket insert in the recalcitrant bolt and give it a good walloping with a 7lb maul.

2. Swap to a a torx head socket that is an interference fit in the hex head of the bolt , judge by sizing up against another pin on the bench.

3. Insert said oversize torx into the recalcitrant bolt and wallop it home firmly with the 7lb maul, inspect and make sure it has bitten as deep as possible.

4. Insert the socket driver/wrench and while maintaining a firm axial load with your hand attempt to undo.

5. If this fails you are no worse off.

Then it is probably a drill and eazi-out job.

 

[ErikDK]

My thesaurus says recalcitrant means stubborn or reluctant.

Never ever use an easy-out if the surrounding material is much softer than the screw you can't budge, it will inevitably break, and if you try to drill out the hard *******, the drill will wander into the soft material. Broken easy-out have to be spark eroded away.
The latest tool for stubborn bolts is induction heating:

Induction Heater uses precision heat versus open flame

Mini-Ductor II, handheld portable induction heater, is designed to safely and accurately heat nuts, bolts, and other fasteners. By using electromagnetic fields, device is able to resolve most stubborn bolt, hinge, nut, and fastener issues by heating fastener precisely, while leaving surrounding area untouched. It's also fast, so fast that it can turn a 3/4 in. nut bright red in just 15 seconds. Its durable casing and portable design make it easy to use, while eliminating the hazard of open flame. Heater relies on preformed coils that range from 7/8 to 1-3/4 in. dia, which are able to heat up fasteners as large as 1-3/4 in.

 

[bikerdoc]

My thesaurus says recalcitrant means stubborn or reluctant.

Never ever use an easy-out if the surrounding material is much softer than the screw you can't budge, it will inevitably break, and if you try to drill out the hard *******, the drill will wander into the soft material. Broken easy-out have to be spark eroded away.
The latest tool for stubborn bolts is induction heating:

OK, so I searched Snap-On tools website that you linked in your reply, but couldn't find the Mini-Ductor II so I did a web search. Wow and wow, the price on eBay is US$400 plus... aint going to happen. Easily double or triple that figure to get that into China. Even if that can be found here already it won't be cheap... so using that method just isn't going to work for me I'm afraid, so any other (realistic - given my location) suggestions?

 

[ErikDK]

A 7lbs persuader is always a good choice

 

[Buffalo]

While WD40 will act as a penetrating oil it is not the best one around. You can buy better ones.

You can also make one that will work better than most of the stuff you can buy just by mixing vegetable oil and acetone. Here is one article on it. https://www.engineeringforchange.org/news/2012/08/14/how_to_make_penetrating_oil.html

 

[NormanB]

Erik - thank you for that. I am an inveterate collector of tools but it would need to be more keenly priced for DIY use. Probably cheaper to buy a replacement caliper off eBay.

 

[NormanB]

OK, so I searched Snap-On tools website that you linked in your reply, but couldn't find the Mini-Ductor II so I did a web search. Wow and wow, the price on eBay is US$400 plus... aint going to happen. Easily double or triple that figure to get that into China. Even if that can be found here already it won't be cheap... so using that method just isn't going to work for me I'm afraid, so any other (realistic - given my location) suggestions?

If all else fails take the caliper off completely and take it to a local small engineering shop - I am sure they will relish the challenge and extract the wee bugger for you.

if you open the bleed valve and wedge the pistons back in you should achieve enough wiggle room to get the caliper free.

 

[ErikDK]

Erik - thank you for that. I am an inveterate collector of tools but it would need to be more keenly priced for DIY use. Probably cheaper to buy a replacement caliper off eBay.

I have an induction stove with broken glass in the basement, that might come in handy for power supply to the coil.

 

[bikerdoc]

A 7lbs persuader is always a good choice

I'm not 100% certain as to what you mean by a "persuader" - do you mind explaining or linking to what you are referring to?

 

[MJR]

I'm not 100% certain as to what you mean by a "persuader" - do you mind explaining or linking to what you are referring to?

Sledge hammer.