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Discussion Starter #1
Okay. I was a past owner, 400 and 650...and now, I've bought the newest, and the oldest, Burgman 400 It's a 2006, with 14000 miles.


Got it for cheap. It passed, barely, the test ride.


Background: Was serviced. An independent secondhand dealer had it. Coolant, brake fluid, all checked/changed, along with oil.


Immediate: Starts hard. Have to goose the throttle to get it started; and of course that causes a forward lunge. Idle speed is 1600 rpm, so that's not the issue.


Second: Steering. NO evidence of an accident, but the steering is wonked up. Wants to oversteer. It's like a soft tire, but I've over-inflated the front tire.


I suspect the head bearings are worn, but should that cause that?
 

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Tires may be worn, or may be non-OEM spec, or you may have a mixed radial/bias-ply set on the bike. Incorrect rear tire inflation could cause issues too, not just the front. Still worth checking the steering head bearings.

And axle bearings too, while you're messing with it.

Hard starting could just be bad gas, but it might be a clogged injector.

Others will have better suggestions, just putting my 2 cents in.
 

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14000 miles, hard to think normal wear and tear would cause a failure of bearings etc, it should be on at least it's second set of tires, and they probably are old. interesting problem! put it up on center stand, load enough refreshing beverages on the pillion to get the front wheel off the ground, then you can check for play in the wheel bearings, and the steering head . This may cause you to be too tired to offload large numbers of beverages at once, so, just consume them one or two at the time, (unless you can hold more in your hands without spillage) until either the front, or you, are on the floor.
 
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One assumes it has sat for some time? Fuel filter will be gummed up. Some seafoam and injector cleaner may help and a new plug. Front tyre likely has a flat spot and heavy breaking will leave an uneven wear pattern causing weird steering. Look down the front of the tyre and run your hand over it you will see and feel the wear, likely cupping.
One also assumes it has a nice healthy battery which can lead to starting issues if not
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Is there a web-page somewhere giving a step-by-step for getting access to the motor top and setting the valves? Especially and primarily, the cladding.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Back to a long-abandoned thread.

Given that the machine seemed basically hardy - put about 300 miles on it, no problems other than starting - I took it to a dealer.

Yeah. I can hear you snicker.

The report I got was a bit confusing. First, the hard starting was caused by "a dirty throttle body." Okay...where was the air filter? Missing?

That's where they get cagey. No, they say, just very dirty. It wasn't until I was out of there, with my 14,000 mile service, new belt, new rear tire...that I remembered: This was the generation that blows oil out the breather at high RPMs.

This after I test-rode the thing to make sure everything was up to snuff. Well...it wasn't. I parked it in my parking space, which is angled...I always use the parking brake on that thing, keep it from rolling off the stand.

Went on as it always did - no binding, nothing. But it would not RELEASE.

I had to work it, pull it tighter, pull it down, do everything I could...before it released.

Its that way every time, now. Sets fine. Does NOT want to RELEASE.

I'm looking at the manual right now, and (of course!) there is NO drawing or diagram of the ratchet mechanism.

I did take it back to the stealership, and they shrug. Well, the manager has no way of knowing that it did work before it went in - I get that, some people are just lowlife.

But I don't want to pay to have it repaired after it got broken by them, either.

Anyone got any ideas, including drawings or how-to rebuilding of the ratchet handle? Maybe just a spring missing on reassembly?
 

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I'd just suggest you watch most of Mitch's vids. He has covered most of what you listed in post # 8 above.
 
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Discussion Starter #11
Actually, I tend not to pull the parking brake tight - two wheels or four. It's my habit - ever since I warped a set of brake drums on a Pinto, almost 40 years ago. So, I pull it out tight enough to hold it on my inclined parking area...and then, now, it won't release. Pull it forward easy - and I hear a click, but it's not a release; it's the brake tightening.

A couple of times, last few days, I found myself pulling it all the way back to maximum. That's no good on anything, but there, it finally does release. Eventually I'm going to damage the spring on the back - or worse.

Gonna tune into that vid.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Handle ratchet pawl and cable adjusted, lubed recently? How tight are you pulling to set it?
This might help:
Watch both parts.

This is a parts breakdown: Shop 2006 Suzuki Burgman 400 REAR CALIPER OEM Parts Diagram - RevZilla

Now it's up to you....
Actually, the problem is not on the rear calipers. It's on the ratcheting mechanism on the parking-brake lever up by the right foot. The rear (and front) brake(s) stop well and the parking brake holds fine. No gritty feel on that cable.

It's just that the ratchet won't trip off as it used to do. Most owners probably never use it; but my assigned parking spot is at an 8-degree incline.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I guess it's a moot issue, for the moment.

I found by twisting the brake handle a bit, it works as it should. So, it can wait until the next time we have to go in there for more-pressing repairs.
 
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