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Discussion Starter #61
Could be a number of things. What year is the bike? A faulty stick coil could exhibit these symptoms but you may not have one. How does the bike ride? Does it just stumble at tick over?
Cannot ride now..wheel is off.waiting on fork seals. Bike is 2007 burgman 400 w 11000 miles. New fuel pump, new plug, injector cleaned..Bike now starts on first impulse馃槃.
Will red line with no hiccups but let it fall back to idle and it starts to miss about every 200rpm. I set the idle up to 2000m and let it run for 10 mins. It then seemed to smooth out without missing..? Reduce the rpm and it runs rough again and will die after a few mins.
Think I will order a new coil.
Thoughts?
Wick
 

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On one hand it has little mileage, on the other it probably sat around a lot. Im not certain throwing anything at it just to see what sticks is the solution. Maybe before that see how the plug boot looks. Also try temoving the boot from the wire, cleaning the back spike connector in the boot and cutting a small amount of cable to have a clean edge and then cork screwing it back on before buying a new coil. Plug was checked? The size is gapped? Maybe an issue with ckp or even ecu. Maybe take that out and use contacts cleaner on the cable and ecu.ecu sits in front cowl to the right on a shelf when looking at the scooter from the front
 

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I agree with SS if it only does it at tickover I would look for a small air leak somewhere split hose etc. Check the TPS is set correctly anything that affects the fuel air mixture. Chucking money at replacement parts can be expensive and pure guess work many components can be bench tested first
 

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Discussion Starter #64
I agree with SS if it only does it at tickover I would look for a small air leak somewhere split hose etc. Check the TPS is set correctly anything that affects the fuel air mixture. Chucking money at replacement parts can be expensive and pure guess work many components can be bench tested first
Thanks...agree with your philosophy but fooling with the ecu, air mixture etc scares me. After looking at the difficulty of getting the coil off, I may forget that for now even though I bought another used one off eBay for $15. With 82 year old eyes and weak fingers getting the coil off seems like an iffy procedure .
 

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Discussion Starter #65
Just took another look at the coil. Anyone know what size the 2 Allen bolts are and is there a special tool to get to them ?
Wick
 

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I took mine off. pita to get too. VERY hard to get your hand in to work those allen screws. I think 4mm. not sure. get a set to use. the dumbest place they could have mounted it. I wount up using many zip ties and mounting it to the chassis support going vertical. there are 2 wires. 1 orange and one yellow. they dont mount backwards. different sized connector so you wont get mixed up when reconnecting. my coil was fine. my pickup connector CKP was bad

to get to the coil, you dont have to remove the painted wide body back plastics, but you will need to work those black plastics off. 2 actually. the side accent strip and the that big asz foot rest. and remove the plastic under that as well.
 

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Discussion Starter #67
I took mine off. pita to get too. VERY hard to get your hand in to work those allen screws. I think 4mm. not sure. get a set to use. the dumbest place they could have mounted it. I wount up using many zip ties and mounting it to the chassis support going vertical. there are 2 wires. 1 orange and one yellow. they dont mount backwards. different sized connector so you wont get mixed up when reconnecting. my coil was fine. my pickup connector CKP was bad

to get to the coil, you dont have to remove the painted wide body back plastics, but you will need to work those black plastics off. 2 actually. the side accent strip and the that big asz foot rest. and remove the plastic under that as well.
Have everything out of the way but when I try to insert Allen wrench I drop it. I have an old Allen tool which is mounted on a flex rod I used for setting the points on my 74 olds. I was hoping someone had made a similar tool for this procedure. I was wondering how I would ever get it back....like your idea of mounting the coil somewhere more accessible ...that's what I will do if and when I get it off.
Right now I am waiting for a spring that mounts In the plastic seat that sits on the bottom
Of the plunger in the in the shock tube. I jambed one up on reassembly. I got the spring reconfigured pretty close but did not want a failure later on. I wonder what the purpose is of the spring as it has little force in it. I am guessing it serves more as a spacer between the plastic seat and the plunger.
Wick If at first u don't succeed try try again馃槤馃槡
 

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Its a small stupid bolt and to even try threading it with your hand to start is a pita and almost impossible. I used short allens to get it out. On reinstall I couodnt get the bottom bolt in at all. Get 2 metal radiator type clamps and close it to the tube frame that's vertical. Use some metal zip ties if you need to

If I may ask. How hard is it to take the injector out? I plan on rebuilding mine and take things out and clean them. Also, how do you adjust the idle rpm please?
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Discussion Starter #69
Its a small stupid bolt and to even try threading it with your hand to start is a pita and almost impossible. I used short allens to get it out. On reinstall I couodnt get the bottom bolt in at all. Get 2 metal radiator type clamps and close it to the tube frame that's vertical. Use some metal zip ties if you need to

If I may ask. How hard is it to take the injector out? I plan on rebuilding mine and take things out and clean them. Also, how do you adjust the idle rpm please?
Cheers
 

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Discussion Starter #70
Switched out the coil and no improvement. Starts like new and will idle smoothly at about 2000 rpm for 4-5 mins. Then starts to miss, will then accept throttle up to red line..back off to 2000 will hold throttle for 1 min then starts miss will smooth out with more throttle. It has stopped the backfire.
Things I have done: new plug, cleaned tank, new fuel pump, cleaned injector, coil exchange, factory reset switch, in-line fuel filter, reset tpsva , applied sea foam to fuel, use throttle body cleaner.
Next think I will tackle ckp sensor test and clean contacts. And look at ecu contacts both of which will be new territory for me...hoping I don鈥檛 screw up something.
After that I may try draining the fuel to make sure nothings there馃ぃ
Wick. Ps as always any suggestions appreciated. My only complaint now is the miss about every 200 rpm at 2000 rpm or less.
 

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Have you looked into one of these?


 

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Paid dealer $800 to purge tank, install new fuel pump and ancillaries. Have driven about 200 miles in the 50 days and same problem but worse. Scoot is 2007 w 11000mi. Now it will not idle below 2000rpm, bogs down under even moderate acceleration and has a miss about every 200 rpm.
I have studied the mod adding the inline filter and will do that. But I don't see that will help the miss. The dealer installed sparkplug has less than 200mi but I will check it.
Appreciate helpful comments
Wayne...San antonio
 

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I feel for you. Haynes sez removing the fuel tank requires removal of the engine. 馃が Maybe a good reason for other riders to use non-ethanol fuel if the bike sets for a while?
 

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I store overwinter with non-E fuel and Sta-Bil Marine Stabilizer. Also used Moto-Master stabilizer with good results. In the cars I double dose the ethanol fuel, good results.
I wonder how the dealer purged the tank. I would siphon as much gas out as I could and put some in a clear glass jar and see what settles out. I would then securely put a clean white rag on a coat hanger, shove down into the tank and see what shows on the rag. I mean really shove a good size rag inside so it gets not only the bottom but the top of the tank too. Did the dealer give you the old parts that were replaced? I hate to go there but.... Sounds like a fuel problem since the dealers work made things worse and all they did was fuel related. Rust dust has caused me some problems with vintage carbs in the past.
Just a thought but maybe moving a bad spark plug lead around has worsened a spark leak. Try running it in the pitch dark and seeing if the spark lead is "leaking". Had a '82 Kawi KZ1000 that sat for months. Ran perfect when parked in a garage. I was ready to pull the carbs off for cleaning until I ran it in the dark garage and saw all the sparks arcing from the plug wires.
 

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I turned pale when I saw $800.00 mentioned :sick:
 
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