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Discussion Starter #1
I've been experiencing a strong notchy feeling in my steering system almost as if there was a pronounced detent especially when going right or left from the center position and it was recommended by some members that the bearings should be inspected. I ordered up the upper & lower bearings and seals then decided to tackle the project yesterday, getting the trees out was the easy part getting the pressed lower bearing, both the upper and lower races posed a challenge but overcome. Upon inspection of the old parts I found the upper bearing/race to be in good condition but replaced it anyway but the lower one is where the damage was (Of course it has to be the more difficult of the two to replace), as you can see in the pictures below how bad it was. Got the old part out and the new parts in now the system is detent free and smooth as butter while on the lift I still need to bleed the front brakes and take her for a spin which will probably be tomorrow. If I should have to do this again I'm going straight for the bottom bearing/race. I also came up with a way to keep outward tension on the claws of the puller which made using the puller immensely easier.

This job was bigger than I thought is was going to be but still a very doable one to tackle which does require some specialized tools.

I want to thank all who guided me in the right direction and for all of the info available from BUSA. :thumbup: Job Complete


Upper Steering Race (In good condition)


Lower Steering race (In not so good condition)



Little Trick to operate the slide hammer a little easier. (My daughter graciously donated 1 of her super bouncy balls for the cause)
 

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Nice post and photos Infernost. Assuming that the steering columns on the 08 and 07's are the same, Is it a huge job to lubricate the column? I have noticed a squeak in it from time to time and would like to avoid damaging the bearings any further. I live a few blocks from the beach and I think the corrosive elements around here a taking their toll. I keep the scoot covered but outside all year round but ride it every day. Do I need any special tools? Do I have to pull the bearings to grease them?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Removing the triple tree from the bike is the way to go but I think you would be able to remove the handlebars and bar mount then remove the triple tree lock nuts & allow the triple tree to drop down a little which will expose the lower bearing (a which point you could grease it up) which is pressed onto the steering shaft then gently push the tree's buck up which will pop out the upper bearing at which point it could be removed greased up and re-installed. If you attempt this you should have someone give you a hand as the the front end is pretty robust & has a descent amount of weight even more so if you keep the tire & calipers on.

For tools you will need assorted sized sockets, allen wrenches and a screwdriver & hammer (I used this to remove & re-install the lock nuts).

FYI - Take great as to not damage the fine threads on top of the shaft where the lock nuts go.

I see you are in Jersey, if you could make it over to Brooklyn I could give you a hand. LMK
 

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I don't have a slide hammer for pulling the lower race off.
I suppose I could rent...
Does the service manual say how many shop hours would be charged for bearing replacement?
 

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InfernoST - I'm going through a bearing/race replacement myself and came across your thread in the '07+ 400 forum (your bike is listed as a 650). Anyway, the info generally seems to apply.

I didn't have a puller as you show and didn't think of the rubber ball idea when I unsuccessfully tried a slide puller like yours. As you apparently found out, there just isn't enough exposed lip on the lower race to get a good grip onto without outward pressure maintained on the arms of the puller. For others considering this task, I thought I'd add my two-cents worth.

The upper race comes out pretty easily by smacking on a long screwdriver up through the steering tube. The problem is the lower race where the tube flares out. A straight screwdriver can't get purchase on the edge of the race. All the race pullers I found around my area were too small in diameter so, that was out. As stated, I didn't do much good with the three-armed puller you used, and a general purpose race removal tool borrowed from my local shop didn't work either. I finally purchased an impactable screwdriver-style pry bar from Harbor Freight that eventually worked. It was bent enough at the end that it's end could rest on the edge of the race. From there, it was similar to removing the upper race, hitting the pry bar from above. The only problem I had with that method was the somewhat soft steel used for the pry bar. After only one or two smacks, the points of contact on the pry bar would deform and no longer catch. I had to file the end down several times before getting it to where I could give it several hard smacks at which point the race came out. This method would work quite well if a better quality pry bar were used.

To install the races, I carefully started them by tapping, then drove them most the way home using a homemade tool similar to the specialty shop tool...a piece of heavy threaded rod with large washers and nuts at each end. Tightening the nuts pulled the races in. As the washers were not the "perfect size" which, would have been just a hair smaller than the OD of each race, I had to go back to the tapping method to drive them home, using a hammer and a piece of pipe of a softer steel than the races so as not to mar them. On the lower one, I actually set the old race against the new one and tapped on that. The old one ended up jammed in the hole but, I was able to just grab it with vice grips and yank it out.

In answer to seamorob's question, I don't know about shop hours but, my shop guy said the job would run between $200 and $250. Since we have two bikes, next time I'll probably purchase the OEM puller tool which, I've found online for just over $50.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
InfernoST - I'm going through a bearing/race replacement myself and came across your thread in the '07+ 400 forum (your bike is listed as a 650). Anyway, the info generally seems to apply.

I didn't have a puller as you show and didn't think of the rubber ball idea when I unsuccessfully tried a slide puller like yours. As you apparently found out, there just isn't enough exposed lip on the lower race to get a good grip onto without outward pressure maintained on the arms of the puller. For others considering this task, I thought I'd add my two-cents worth.

The upper race comes out pretty easily by smacking on a long screwdriver up through the steering tube. The problem is the lower race where the tube flares out. A straight screwdriver can't get purchase on the edge of the race. All the race pullers I found around my area were too small in diameter so, that was out. As stated, I didn't do much good with the three-armed puller you used, and a general purpose race removal tool borrowed from my local shop didn't work either. I finally purchased an impactable screwdriver-style pry bar from Harbor Freight that eventually worked. It was bent enough at the end that it's end could rest on the edge of the race. From there, it was similar to removing the upper race, hitting the pry bar from above. The only problem I had with that method was the somewhat soft steel used for the pry bar. After only one or two smacks, the points of contact on the pry bar would deform and no longer catch. I had to file the end down several times before getting it to where I could give it several hard smacks at which point the race came out. This method would work quite well if a better quality pry bar were used.

To install the races, I carefully started them by tapping, then drove them most the way home using a homemade tool similar to the specialty shop tool...a piece of heavy threaded rod with large washers and nuts at each end. Tightening the nuts pulled the races in. As the washers were not the "perfect size" which, would have been just a hair smaller than the OD of each race, I had to go back to the tapping method to drive them home, using a hammer and a piece of pipe of a softer steel than the races so as not to mar them. On the lower one, I actually set the old race against the new one and tapped on that. The old one ended up jammed in the hole but, I was able to just grab it with vice grips and yank it out.

In answer to seamorob's question, I don't know about shop hours but, my shop guy said the job would run between $200 and $250. Since we have two bikes, next time I'll probably purchase the OEM puller tool which, I've found online for just over $50.
My current bike is a 2012 650, this thread is about my 2008 400 which I no longer have.
 

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Hi All - I have a 2008 400 with 20k miles on it and it has the notched center and wobbles - I have from All Balls Steering Bearing Seal Kit and getting ready to tackle the job. I have read everything related to this on BUSA and noticed nothing has been posted recently and all the photos are no longer available. If anyone has any helpful photos, please let me know, I would be grateful for any help. Thank you
 

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Most of the knowledge base is gone. It was hosted offsite and we can not access the WikiTiki site to update it.

There is a FAQ section that may hold some info. But if you can take pictures as you go we can add them to the FAQ area.

A quick and FREE Photo editor is 'Faststone Photo Viewer' that lets you resize, crop, add text/arrows and lighten them before uploading.

;)
 
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How so, Dave -- is that the info still there but not accessible, or it's not available because it was erased?
 

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How so, Dave -- is that the info still there but not accessible, or it's not available because it was erased?
Kind of both. Cory (Colchicine) had most of the stuff on a server off site. He does not come on here anymore ( 8/13/2018 ) and does not reply to the email I had listed. I am guessing that when he moved servers a lot of data was lost or miss directed and we have no one with the user name and password to enter WikiTiki.
 

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That's really a weird disappearance of Cory with the data.
 

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Cory was having a health issue in his family and was not having time to enjoy the Burgman and I think he sold it.
 

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That's understandable but why not to pass in the captain's arm-band :confused:
 
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