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Discussion Starter #1
Here's how I repaired my lower frame cover. First thing I did was scour this website for info. I came up with type of glue to use (Loctite) and found it at Lowe's. I put the pic of Gorilla Glue in there because in reading the types of glue to use I found a commonality. The loctite and the Gorilla glue says they will not bond to polyethelyene or polypropylene plastics. Our tupperware is made of ABS plastic - that's the type of glue you need.

This picture shows the cracked place. It had about 5 different places that were cracked -sorry, I didn't get a "before I glued it" pic.

This is after I sanded the excess glue down. It was cold out and I didn't wait long enough so I managed to re-crack one of the cracks. Re-glued it and waited 24 hours -this pic is after that.

A friend of mine suggested putting some fiberglass on the back for more support. I didn't know if fiberglass would stick to ABS plastic. He suggested using the epoxy as the resin. Viola'! A great idea! So, I roughed up the back with 40 grit sandpaper and did it. Then, because the epoxy is thick and doesn't really soak the fiberglass through and through, I decided to put some fiberglass resin on top of that. It worked. It stuck good even on the edges that didn't have the epoxy on it. So, I turned it over and put a coat of the fiberglass resin on top of the (outer skin) crack.


Sanding fiberglass resin is not something you want to get in a hurry with. It's pretty darned hard. I sanded it with 150 grit and put a coat of black plastic Krylon paint on it -because I didn't have any primer. It will look a like this until I paint the scooter.

The only down side I can think of is the tupperware is not as flexible in that spot now. The good side is $6 for the epoxy vs. $200+ for a new panel.
I already had the fiberglass and spray bomb. Hope this helps.

BTW- I think I'm going to paint it in 2014 Ford Sunset Orange.

Questions- Can the Burgman emblem be saved and reused? Anyone ever taken one off?
 

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Nice Job!! Good Recommendation, To use fiberglass resin

I used just Bondo, And on the back side it kind of came apart a little..

It would be a waist of time to Purchase a new tupperware Panel, just so it could happened again... Better to just fix it your self.. the Only hard thing is finding a Match Color to blend it in.. That's what i can't stand...

Elliott,

Looks great!
 

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To carry out a repair that's compatible to the original ABS you have two options plastic welding or what I have found to be the best is found at this link www.plastex.com
I have even made new tabs that had broken off and were lost using the molding bar that comes with the kit. using fibreglass is not good as it will not flex on impact and will cause further cracking if this happens just ask me been there and done it. hence researching and finding plastex. Also found ABS glue not suitable as its designed for holding pipes together like one inside the other not edge to edge holding.
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
I tried the link you posted (Muse) but couldn't negotiate the site to find anything useful.
I know the panel is not good as new because the fiberglass is rigid and not flexible.
Still, I think it'll hold unless I drop it again :)
As far as matching color, I don't know about this color. Is it a 2 or 3 stage?
If it's a 2 stage, English Color (local here) will make a spray bomb that would do just fine being as it is a low piece.

Edit- Thinking about what muse said. If you can buy pieces (maybe off a wreck) of the same ABS plastic, you could cut it and layer it on the back (inside) of the broken piece with the same epoxy I used. Clamp it, wait the prescribed time, and then finish out the outside of the break.
That way you would have a much larger glued area.
 

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I think it is a 3 stage paint.

Another way is to use a plastic welding kit from like Eastwood Co. While some kits are very expensive, there are cheaper units. http://search.eastwood.com/search?w=plastic welding

I used a 140/100 watt Weller soldering gun and large black wire ties on my sons Ninja 500's ABS tupperware. The last owner had done repairs with fiberglass and it had recracked. I also added more thickness where I could around the mirrors and turnsignal mounting areas. In my job I use large wire ties to secure cables. After I zip the tie I must cut off about 5 to 18 inches of the ends and dispose of them. So that trash becomes my treasure.
 

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This Plastic just don't make no Sense, Mending Plastic, Headlights that Turn Yellow!! what's next Plastic Cylinders.

Elliott,
 

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This Plastic just don't make no Sense, Mending Plastic, Headlights that Turn Yellow!! what's next Plastic Cylinders?

Elliott,
Uh, Yes, composite plastics can be made to handle extreme pressure and heat. They just line it with ceramic and instant heat and friction protection.

Make a plastic ball, coat it in ceramic and now you have Ceramic ball bearings that have little friction and require little lubrication, mostly a dry film will work.

Plastics are here to stay. All they have to do is add other compounds like carbon fibers, Kevlar, or whatever and it is stronger that steel at many time lighter weight.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
DaveJ- actually, the price of Eastwoods most expensive plastic welding kit is almost the same price as buying the piece I "fixed".
Could have bought the one down from the most expensive for $69 and been better off. I probably will do that next time (if there is a next time -don't want to jinx myself - lol).
 

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Thanks for these hints but just one more thing guys. Last year the electric cooling fan blade cracked on our Jeep Cheroke. Don't know what kind of plastic it is, but it seems the same as what our bikes use. I could not buy just the fan blades and they wanted over 200.00 for the whole assembly. I tried the epoxy resin and mat but it kept poping back loose. What worked so far is JB Weld and fiberglas cloth. It seemed to stick to the plastic much better than anything I tried.
The hard part of fixing the fan was getting it back in balance each time. I had to add the exact weight on the opposite side. Of course it does make that part rigid.
Tom
 

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If you want to plastic weld and don't want to spend a lot of money you can do as I do. I use an old flat blade screwdriver and heat it with a propane torch. While I have used zip ties for filler material, I've found that scrape prices of ABS make a stronger weld.
 

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I saw! some Plastic weld kit at Harbor Fright, Any one know if it's any good..

Elliott,
 

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I saw! some Plastic weld kit at CHINA Harbor Fright, Any one know if it's any good..

Elliott,
Fix that for ya Elliott. :twisted:

The Harbor Freight units are as good as the units from Eastwood. Maybe the same manufacture, in China. :D Id
'd buy it. Just don't chew on the paint, has lead in it.
 

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Fix that for ya Elliott. :twisted:

The Harbor Freight units are as good as the units from Eastwood. Maybe the same manufacture, in China. :D Id
'd buy it. Just don't chew on the paint, has lead in it.

I SEE if it comes from them then the Plastic is no good!! thanks Dave,

Elliott,
 

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I know I am tacking this on an older thread but I had something to add.

you can use acetone, find any old piece of ABS plastic that is of similar color, dissolve the plastic into the acetone to make a thickened glue that works wonders, the bond is so strong, if it cracks again its likely to be beside the repair not in it.
using a fiber weave behind the crack is still a good idea as you can paint the glue lightly across the back lay the weave over and wait a bit then paint on a few more layers to make the entire area far stronger than original.
DO NOT apply this homemade glue too heavily as it can temporarily soften the part your repairing to the point it warps.
The color match is very handy :) and the total cost is pennies.

since the final product is thicker and is actually ABS plastic, sanding down is fairly easy. A body putty to make it perfectly smooth, add paint, look new and be stronger.
 

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LMAO chew on it!
 
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