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Discussion Starter #1
Last had the wheel off in 1st week of July, now have puncture and wish to remove again.
Just can not get **** wheel off despite several robust attacks with a wooden block and large hammer.
Should I go for heat on the hub and a larger hammer???
 

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I guess you have the three nuts removed right, after that the rim should come out it is not a press fit.
Before I add heat or anything else I would have a "wrench" look at it down at the dealers.
Like you said you had it off so you know something is wrong.
I am just thinking that shaking the wheel should be enough. Maybe someone else has a better idea :?
 

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Wasn't the rear wheel of the earlier 400's (not 03 or 04) made to fit on over a spline? And they had some trouble with these getting seized, resulting in considerable damage if forced off? If its the later models theres nothing holding in on but the 3 wheel nuts. At least thats the way it looks in the service manual...I've not had mine off yet.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
It's an early model - so doesn't have the 3 nut set up. Just the single central 27mil nut.
Last time it was removed(July) was at a mates shed who had a 3 legged "puller" . Just wondered if I could persuade it to move with some heat and a little force. Alternative is for my local bike shop to take it on, but they'lll need to pick it up and this close to Xmas I'm not sure they have the staff or time. :x
 

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ted clement said:
Wasn't the rear wheel of the earlier 400's (not 03 or 04) made to fit on over a spline? And they had some trouble with these getting seized, resulting in considerable damage if forced off?
Yep. Mine came with this "feature".
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Only done 1000 miles since last rear wheel removal, so hopefully shouldn't be seized
 

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Do not fear Norms here! :wink:

Do not use excessive force (yet).

Follow this link and have a read - heat is the answer Burgman Parts UK Site
 

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Take care Gary, mine is a Mk1 and my dealer broke the wheel trying to get it off......
:(
Just like Andre.

NormanB has the right idea.
 

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oooooo the pesky rear wheel.
You may find undoing the caliper bolts may help sometimes as the disc carrier also gets stuck.
If/when you get it off
1. Always copper grease the splined shaft and splines of the whell and disc carrier, it makes life just that tad easier next time.
2. Always put the washer on the correct way round or you can damage the splines, even strip them or lock the wheel on solid.

If you can't get it off spray loads of wd40 etc on it after removing the nut an washer. Apply heat with a heat gun (NOT A BLOW TORCH) and at worst use a plastic or hide mallet to tap the rim and turn it as you do.

Always clean everything (wire brush) after removal and re-copper grease before assembly. I have had my wheel off 5 times and the only problem I had removing it was the first time.

It seems the factory guys don't own a tub of grease!
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Just to let you guys know that with the assistance of a rubber mallet and a heat gun (the domestic kind, for stripping paint) the wheel was removed 8)
 

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Hey well done Gary thats great news thanks for letting us know. :)

So as the resident expert :wink: on wheel removal from the Early Burger -

what was the condition of the splined areas - could you see easily what was the cause of the bind or was it just quite shitty all round?

I trust you 'copper-slipped' it prior to reassembly!? :wink:
 

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As mentioned above, be sure to put some "anti-seize" on the splines before reinstalling. That stuff will stick and prevent further problems.

Its always used, very sparingly, on spark plugs to keep the metal plug from seizing against the aluminum cylinder. However, Its the silver colored stuff, not the copper.
 

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ted clement said:
[snipped]. However, Its the silver colored stuff, not the copper.
Oh you guys -

you just get so hung up on COLOR! :D :D
 
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