[pauljo]

There is a body panel that runs underneath the floorboards on each side of the 650. I think Suzuki calls it a lower leg shield. There is one screw clearly visible toward the rear of the panel, and a tab in the front.

I looked in the PDF version of the service manual that I downloaded some time ago, and it said to remove the screw, and release the tab at the front. I did that, but the panel still felt securely locked in place.

Has anyone successfuly removed one of these panels? If so, I could use some instructions on how to do it.

 

[allwalk]

YEs Paul I have several times. Lift out the rubber inserts on both foot rests and remove the screws and the plastic hold ons. I have pics I will post

 

[pauljo]

Thanks. Do the rubber mats just pull up? I thought about that, but the mats seemed rather securely fastened too.

It would have made cutting the exhaust pipe for the Remus install much easier if I could have removed that panel. I think I broke the front hanger for the panel when trying to pry it off. So I want to remove the panel and see if I can repair that hanger with some super glue or JB weld.

Thank You - I'll look for the pics later today. Right now, I'm thinking about going for a ride...

 

[seatec]

Try DYNA-WELD to repare plastic, i fixed a lot of honda scooters with it, it is a 2 part epoxy i got at Cnn Tire years ago, just used it on some plastic still good after 10 years in tube.

 

[seatec]

It is made by Dynatron/bondo corp, Atlanta Ga. Dont know if they are still around.

 

[Randy]

Paul , do you have the ULR for that download ?
Maybe theres one for the 400 also..Thanks

 

[pauljo]

Paul , do you have the ULR for that download ?
Maybe theres one for the 400 also..Thanks

Randy,

It is no longer there. We think maybe Suzuki had a little talk with the site about copyright infringement... They did have a 400 manual, but in Spanish only. Actually, the PDF copy is somewhat awkward to use - I have ordered the hardcopy manual from Ron Ayers and am waiting for it to arrive. The 650 manual was $31 - someone said that the 400 manual was $21 plus shipping from them.

https://www.ronayers.com/main.cfm

I couldn't find the manuals on their website, but I emailed them and they gave me a price. They are very useful when you need parts - OEM parts at a good discount.

 

[allwalk]

Hi Paul
Sorry about the delay but I guess due to problems with my internet provider I couldnt access this forum or the gallery.
The pictures are uploaded now
http://burgmanusa.com/gallery/allwalk?page=2

Thanks. Do the rubber mats just pull up? I thought about that, but the mats seemed rather securely fastened too.

Yes they do, just start at the end and work a srewdriver under it and pull it up. They (rubber inserts ) just plug in and will uncover all the screws you need to access.
Theres also one screw you need to undo from the front (rad area). You will see it easily enough. The bottom front portion clips on. You will be able to see this if you get under and look.

Once you get all fasteners undone the shield will slide or wiggle towards you. You can see the tabs after the rubber inserts are removed. Now the area around the cutout seems tight but dont worry they snap out with no problem and you will understand once you have the shield off.

 

[allwalk]

I'm working on redoing some of the photos. I have added text and arrows to assist you. Hope it helps.

These pics were taken to help explain to everyone how easy it is to change there own oil. I will be adding text to the series and then make a thread that refers to each photo. However , this is my first time trying such a thing and I'm fumbling my way throught it.
I'm computer illiterate. DOH!

 

[pauljo]

This is great having the pictures.

I hung went to the dealership last Friday to get my engine oil changed.

I paid for a three year maintenance contract, so I can have my oil changed at the dealership for free. As often as I like - not just at the specified intervals. And they'll use any oil I like that they have on their shelves. Went with the Honda semi-synthetic this time. It was easy to see that they did it - new filter - the oil was light and clean in the sight window and it had been dark in color when I brought it in - and it was appropriately filled exactly to the top line on the sight window. Total cost was $0, and I had a couple of free cups of coffee while waiting. I've been having the engine oil changed twice as frequently as specified - why not? It's no additional cost to me at this point.

But it is not as easy to check them out on the other two oil reservoirs. What if they "forget" to do them at the specified intervals? I may do those myself - just to be sure. I may even ask them to provide me with the oil and see if they'll do that. Anyway, with Allwalk's pictures, and me new service manual when it arrives, I shouldn't have any difficulty doing it.

 

[Rev]

Thanks Allwalk, had my first sevice performed last friday at dealer. Changed oil and filter, no clutch,don't think he was aware it had a wet clutch as well.Your pics and information will let me do the next sevice. Great work.

 

[Ted White]

Pauljo:

What did it cost you for the three year maintenance contract? And, does that mean they'll do the 15K valve adjustment at no cost?

 

[pauljo]

Ted,

I was $899.00.

It covers all scheduled maintenance for a three year period. This would include the valve adjustment - it is scheduled maintenance.

It includes as many oil changes as you want. I have already had two extra engine oil changes. They let me select whatever oil I want from the variety they have in stock.

You are supposed to get priority status on service turnaround.

They do give me a service invoice each time, showing what the normal charge would be, but they stamp it as "Paid".

It also extends the warranty out to three years. Covers 100% parts and labor. (The dealer warranties the machine after the Suzuki warranty runs out.)

It includes free tire mounting and balancing if you buy the tires through the dealer.

It includes 10% discounts on any parts or accessories in stock (I've already used this a few times.)

It includes no charge priority ordering and shipping on any product not in stock.

It is transferable if you sell the machine.

It is called the "Priority Protection Program" at my dealership.

The dealer claims that you should save at least 40% off of regular prices, but that they like it because it guarantees that they have your service business.

My thoughts are that if I put 30,000 miles on the scooter over that three year period, and I am on pace to do that, I'll make out very well. Someone who only puts 10,000 miles on their machine during that timeframe would obviously not do so well.

I believe this is available for all motorcycles, scooters and ATVs that they sell - not just the Suzukis.

 

[Ted White]

Pauljo:

Thanks for the meticulous detailing of what the warranty covers and provides.

As the local Suzuki dealer (25 miles away in Sierra Vista) won't touch Burgmans, I recently visited a Tucson dealer (90 miles away) who sells and services Burgmans. When I next drop in, I'll ask them about an extended warranty.

However, and your point is well taken in terms of how many miles one might drive in three years, I doubt I'd do as much as you do. I don't commute and probably won't put more than 3000-4000 per year. Perhaps they have some sort of extended warranty that would adjust for that.

On the other hand, I like this bike so much I might ride it more than I have historically put mileage on a motorcycle per annum.

 

[pauljo]

Theres also one screw you need to undo from the front (rad area). You will see it easily enough. The bottom front portion clips on. You will be able to see this if you get under and look.

I removed the right side lower leg shield today. There may be some difference between our machines, because there is no screw in the upper front by the radiator. Instead, there is a big snap through tab - just like the ones at the bottom back end of the engine cover. That tab, in fact, was what had snapped off. I used some J-B Weld to put it back in place. I'm letting it cure for a while longer, then I'll reinstall the shield and see if it holds.

Under the floormats, there were two screws, and three of those push pin fasteners to remove. And yes the tabs were quite tight in that cutout area.

Geez, it would have been a lot easier to cut through that exhaust pipe if I had taken the leg shield off first!

 

[pauljo]

Alwalk,

OK. I just reinstalled the leg shield. I did see the screw that you were referring to, it is just a tad higher than the top of the lower leg shield and about an inch inward. Doesn't seem to have anything to do with holding the lower leg shield though.

Anyhow, the front of my leg shield up by the radiator is nice and snug once more, and it looks like the J-B Weld is working. I think the darn mechanic at the dealership broke the snap-through tab off when he removed the shield to do that "dieseling noise" fix.

While I was at it I checked all my centerstand bolts. They all seem to be there and to be tight.

Thanks for your help with the leg shield removal process.