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Hi

So far... bought a burg, engine seized, replaced engine, kept overheating, had airlock in rad, bled cooling system resolved. Test drive for 5 miles, smokey exhaust and then cut out and wouldnt start. recharged battery and now starts. was letting warm up and there is a lot of smoke coming from the front of the bike and regulator wires getting extremely hot so turned off. Looking at the regulator it has been bypassed straight to the battery for some reason? - see pic. I took out the bypass wires and now it won't start. Does this just mean I need a new regulator? sorry not the most electrically minded.
Thanks
 

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No picture, but it sounds like the regulator went out and the previous owner did a quick bypass to sell it. The regulator will stabilize the voltage to keep the electronics from burning up. No regulator could mean that your wires will fry or you will start blowing bulbs, etc. Then the electronics will go. I would have to guess that you bought a P.O.S.....sorry.
 

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Ok, I'm not the most electrically minded guy out here either, but wouldn't simply replacing the regulator (yeah, it's expensive) solve the whole problem?

http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_trksid=p2050601.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0&_nkw=suzuki+burgman+regulator+rectifier&_sacat=0&_from=R40
Running with a bad Regulator/Rectifier can and will cause failure of the stator and the battery. He also jumpered the R/R. This can and will burn up wiring and bulbs. Whoever did this might have caused more problems.

Namaste'
Doug in Kentucky
 

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Hi

So far... bought a burg, engine seized, replaced engine, kept overheating, had airlock in rad, bled cooling system resolved. Test drive for 5 miles, smokey exhaust and then cut out and wouldnt start. recharged battery and now starts. was letting warm up and there is a lot of smoke coming from the front of the bike and regulator wires getting extremely hot so turned off. Looking at the regulator it has been bypassed straight to the battery for some reason? - see pic. I took out the bypass wires and now it won't start. Does this just mean I need a new regulator? sorry not the most electrically minded.
Thanks
In the stock configuration the rectifier/regulator (R/R) output is connected "directly" to the battery, via the main fuse:



It sounds as though the previous owner may have bypassed the main fuse (30A), perhaps due to its constantly blowing because of a bad rectifier/regulator. If that was the case then the battery is most likely destroyed--the good news being that it may have given its all while protecting the rest of the electrical system.

"Bypassing" the R/R, as in jumping its inputs and output, would be devastating as the generator's output is 55+ V AC. Jumping that to the battery would probably cause a very impressive pyrotechnic display...
 

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Notice that he said the generator's output is "A.C". The rectifier turns the V.A.C. to V.D.C....as in Direct Current, which is what cars and bikes run on. Essentially what the R/R is doing is converting the voltage to Direct Current, and then it stabilizes that or smooths it out. It is a wonder that the entire electrical system didn't burn up. When you purchase laptop computers some of them come with a "brick". (Others have it inside the computer itself.)Those do the same as the R/R because electronics run on D.C. and do not need as much current as the wall plug sends out. Imagine what would happen if you tried to bypass the brick. Now think about what was done to your scooter.
 

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Imagine what else the P.O. has done, which you can't see without further inspection.
I wouldn't touch it with a ten foot pole.
 
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