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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
How many ways can you get the rear wheel off? Meaning, can you get it off without removing the 2 swing arm bolts? My dealer is telling me they just remove the axle and brake caliper, and don't touch the 2 swing arm bolts. Seems they changed my rear tire and within 100 miles the top bolt was loose and the bottom was missing. Coincidence?
Thanks for any responses.
 

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Taking a swing arm off to change a tire is not necessary on any motorcycle I have ever seen. You take the brake caliper loose and remove the axle, the rear wheel is loose at that point. On some motorcycles you have to also remove some tupperware to get the rear wheel out, on others you don't. But again, none I have ever seen require you to remove the swing arm.

You didn't say what kind of Burgman you have. The procedure is a little different for a 400cc than it is for a 650. I do think the 400 requires you to remove the cover on the swing arm but even then, the swing arm itself doesn't have to come out of the bike for a rear wheel removal.

Doug in Kentucky
 

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I have a pair of '09 650s. I've replaced the rear tire several times and never had to deal with more than the brakes and axle.

You need to include year and model. Don't believe everything you're told anymore than everything you read on the Internet. See what LeDude has to say...

Regards
Scott Fraser
Calgary
 

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I just loosen the bolts and move it to the side when changing the rear tire.
That is probably what the dealer did and forgot to re-tighten the bolts.
 

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I stand corrected. First motorcycle I have heard of the requires swing arm removal (partial) to remove a tire. Seems that there is always something new to learn in motorcycling...

Namaste'
Doug in Kentucky
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
"We'll call you back tomorrow after I talk to my mechanic about this".
Still waiting, and tomorrow is already past....
Not sure there is much, if anything I want, I would just like the satisfaction that they know it was their fault and it could've had serious consequences. Had that 2nd bolt fell out, the wheel I'm sure would of went sideways/crooked, locked, wobbled, something! None of which would've been good at speed, and dumby me didn't wear his helmet the last 100 miles because it was too hot out. Mistake!
I don't know? Maybe I'm making too much out of this? It's all fixed now anyway, no thanks to my dealer, heck, I even had to pay forthe new bolt, lol.
 

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The dealer probably did everything by the book, and guess what the bolts still came out. This happened to me, and I was the mechanic.

For some reason the torque 36 lb-ft is not sufficient to hold the bolts, after removal from factory assembly.

I lost the bottom bolt and just like you almost lost the top bolt (held in place by the e-brake cable that runs over the top of the bolt head).

I NOW use Loctite on them, I would insist my mechanic does also (me :p)

The good news my bike was fully capable of transporting me many hundreds of miles in that condition. I was really questioning my abilities after that one, but have since made it a law to always chemically bond all critical components during re-assembly.

I have included the bolt inspection along with my other pre-ride preparations.

Glad you are ok, don't be to hard on the dealer, (I now carry two spare bolts in my kit, just in case).
 

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As has been said, there is NO way to remove the rear wheel on the 2007+ models without complete removal of the swing arm on the right side of the bike. It's simple and the two bolts holding the arm on are not highly stressed. However, if you lube them before you refit them, one of two things may happen. One, they may come undone or, two, you may strip the threads as you torque them back. Put them back DRY! They will not come undone if torqued correctly. I've never seen that happen and I've done many of them (I'm ex-tech). One of the great things about the 2007+ is the very easy and low amount of maintenance it requires. Even mechanically challenged people can do many things on this bike with just a little application of the brain and a few spanners. Enjoy your bikes!
 

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Just one other point worthy of note concerning the torquing of these smaller nuts/bolts. Many of you will know this (this is not aimed at you Mike or anyone in particular) but it never hurts to keep repeating it. Always use a torque wrench suitable for the job. I've watched many home mechanics use a torque wrench which is far too heavy duty for the job. So the swing arm bolts for example are 50nm per bolt dry. I watched a guy using a wrench capable of 230nm. You don't get the most accurate torque setting doing that. It matters on such bolts too. A tech will usually use one that goes somewhere around 70nm-100nm (or not too far past that) for anything that small for far better accuracy. Often a bolt will come loose because of inaccurate torquing even though the wrench has been set right. If it keeps happening, then change the bolts, and use a different torque wrench. I don/t recommend thread lock in such circumstances for lots of reasons. Overall though, thats why we all check our nuts and bolts regularly, right!
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
A little update. On the way home from our Mn trip this past weekend my ABS light came on, (i do believe I mentioned this in another post) anyway, we also thought we could hear some whistling, scrapping? Today I decide to look into it a little and find the rear axle nut finger tight and half way off! Yet another bolt/nut they forgot to tighten when the tire was changed!
Glad we didn't get killed due to my dealers negligence!
So, do you think that had anything to due with my ABS light coming on? It's pouring out so I haven't tested it yet.
 

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Ohh my so glad you are OK.

In my opinion that could have caused the ABS to come on. Reason is that tone ring in on the wheel, and the sensor is on the transmission case. Your time could have tilted enough to cause sensor errors.

Have the Loctite that one down too. I do!
 

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It's possible. With the nut loose it might have let the wheel move around just enough to take the sensor out of proper alignment with the ring.
 
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