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Discussion Starter #1
Hello all!

I own a 2008 Burgman AN400. This a new bike for me.Just recently bought it used with 8000+ miles on her.
The issue I am having is removing the rear tire. My plan was to remove it, and then bring the new tire I bought to the dealership and just have them swap them out, then put the new tire back on the bike. There's a guy on You Tube that I've watched dozen of times. His video's gave me confidence that I could do the job myself. It looked easy enough. Long story short....I got everything off the bike, down to the swing arm. If you watch the video, the tire is supposed to just slide off the axle at that point. Well, it didn't for me. There's a collar that is securing the tire on the axle and I can't figure out how to get the thing off. I've taken a rubber mallet and banged the tire from the opposite side. I've kicked it..all to no avail....so I come here seeking wisdom.

Any suggestions how I can get the tire off the axle?

Thanks in advance for your time.

Dan
 

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DO NOT continue to use a hammer. Grab a beverage of your choice and take 5.

Look at Ron Ayers website. There is the axle nut, then 2 spacers. Then the wheel will slide off.

You have the caliper loosened and tied out of the way, right?

There must be something wrong with the spacers. Once the axle nut is off, the wheel will practically fall off.
 

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You have the swing arm off, right? Take a look here and make sure you have the axle nut and wheel bearing colors off. The axle has splines and should pull straight off.

#6 and #7 should come off before the swing arm. #5 should slide off with the wheel. No need to remove the brake disc. Depending on where the scooter was driven, there may be some rust build up keeping the wheel attached to the spindle.

http://www.boulevardsuzuki.com/fich...ory=Scooters&make=SUZUKI&year=2008&fveh=18995
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I appreciate your time and response. Mike, would you believe I got the advice to use a rubber mallet from a local dealer? The mechanic there told me over the phone "it can be a bear to get off sometimes."

UC...From the diagram on your link, the Swing arm is not shown. It's between collars #5 and #6.

I've taken off the brake caliper....then the axle bolt, then the outer collar. Btw, I've hung caliper in such a way that takes pressure off the brake lines.

At that point I was anticipating the wheel would slide right off....nope...it doesn't budge. The inner collar is the next thing on the axle and and it doesn't want to go anywhere.

That's where I'm at.

Dan
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Ok once i remove the outer collar then the swing arm, I'm left with the inner collar that doesn't want to budge
 

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Discussion Starter #8
One more question. Now that I have the muffler off the bike, is it ok, or advisable to run the engine? I know its loud, but is that the only drawback?

Thanks
 

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I have a tool I have used for years, just a 3/8" cold chisel ground to a acute angle, to budge blind sided collars and bearing races loose from the stiction and corrosion the often binds them in place. Here is the tool:



In use you would tap the wedge (lightly) into the crevice between the collar and the wheel, at several opposing places about the collar, until it breaks loose. 99.44% of the time this will do it, though sometimes if really stubborn you need to use progressively larger wedges until you have moved the collar back far enough to get a puller on it.

Tap the wedge in here, working your way around the collar in a crisscross way:
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Thanks Cliff,

I'm not sure where I can get a hold of a tool like that. I just tried a regular flat head screw driver...that didn't work. If all else fails, I'll put it in the trailer and take
it to the shop that way.

Anyway, what about the muffler question. Is it ok to run the engine while it's detached? Besides the noise of course
 

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Okay to run the engine without the exhaust but you may annoy your neighbours if you rev it up! Watch out for any flames/hot gasses coming out and potentially setting fire to brake hoses/wiring/plastic etc. With regards to the bearing inner race, you need to take care if forcing a chisel between it and its stop as the new one may not seat square if you put any burrs on it. I prefer to cut a deep groove across them with a cutting disc. Then, a good hard whack at an angle with a sharp chisel and the bearing cracks (use eye protection). This releases any pressure and you can carefully tap it off.
 

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I like Steve's suggestion regarding using the chisel, sounds safest to me. :thumbup:
 
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