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Rear tire not turning

10K views 46 replies 16 participants last post by  peelbrow 
#1 ·
It seems my rear tire on my 2008 650 is not turning. I have checked my parking brake and no matter what it still does not turn. Any ideas?
 
#2 ·
Maybe the stopper bolt drop out or sheared off. Check other posts, do a search on "stopper Bolt".

Later, Jim
 
#5 ·
The stopper bolt would not lock the rear wheel. The clutch is between the CVT and the rear wheel.

Things I can think of that would lock the rear wheel: problem with the rear brake caliper, frozen wheel bearing, broken gear or frozen bearing the the final drive, bad bearing in the transmission, locked up clutch.
 
#4 ·
I would loosen the parking brake assembly entirely and unmount it from the caliper as a verification to see if it's the mechanism seized. If that doesn't do it then remove the caliper itself as the slide pins may be corroded to a point that the caliper is frozen closed.
 
#6 ·
a few years ago my parking brake locked up. I was able to ride it to the dealer that way being it was about 2 miles. $140 to fix it.
 
#10 ·
But can you turn the wheel by hand????????
This would be true. If the belt snapped then the wheel will not turn when the engine is rev'ed but you could spin it by hand.

So does the engine rev free to 5,000 + RPM, or is it loaded down to less than 2,500 RPM?
 
#12 ·
Then I assume you can push the bike around and the rear wheel will turn.

That would indicate you likely have a broken belt in the CVT or a clutch problem.

Pull the filter out of the CVT and start the engine. Look through where the filter goes and see if the fan on the CVT is turning. If not then the likely culprit is a broken belt. If the fan is turning then the problem is more likely to be the clutch not engaging.
 
#13 ·
If like we think happened and the belt broke it can be repaired but if you can not do the work yourself it will be beyond what the bike is worth to pay a dealer to do it. Buffalo had done a belt replacement as have a few others.

I have a CVT from my first 03 laying on my garage floor. It may have been making a slight squeeling sound so I could not guess on how long it would last. It has 54,000 miles on it. I also have a 08 that has 67,000 miles that I just crashed back in April that the CVT was working but had a slight hiss sound. I had not thought about selling them, yet.

How many miles on your 650? I may be interested in buying your bike if you do not want to fix it. But salvage prices are low for a broken CVT bike. I need just all the tupperware body parts. I would maybe get all the parts to rebuild a CVT and sell it later.

I am 125 miles south of you. I am recovering from my crash or I would just ride up and give you a hand. So sorry to hear this.
 
#14 ·
If you can do the work yourself and the only problem is a broken belt then I would not even consider buying a used CVT. I would just replace the belt. Once you get the CVT out of the bike splitting the case and replacing the belt is not a big deal.
 
#15 ·
Exactly. Buying a used CVT is borrowing time on an unknown unit. It would upset ME if I sold an used CVT only to have it fail on the buyer in less than a years time. Like Buffalo said, getting the engine module, the whole engine to rear tire is basicly 1 unit, down enough to pull the CVT is about the hardest part. Split the CVT case and replacing a belt and maybe a bearing or two is easy for some of us.

I do not really want to sell much off ether of my downed bikes due to their high mileages and knowing how they were ridden. :D
 
#17 ·
Then your problem is not a broken belt. Something downstream from the clutch is locked up. Start at the rear caliper and work forward through drive train until you determine what is locked up.

Simple way to eliminate the caliper is to just remove the two bolts that hold it on then pull it off. If the wheel will then turn your problem is in the rear brake caliper.
 
#18 ·
Then your problem is not a broken belt. Something downstream from the clutch is locked up. Start at the rear caliper and work forward through drive train until you determine what is locked up.

Simple way to eliminate the caliper is to just remove the two bolts that hold it on then pull it off. If the wheel will then turn your problem is in the rear brake caliper.
....if it's not the caliper, then remove the rear wheel and see if the drive train is moving. If not, report back here.
 
#20 ·
Something's amiss here. No way will the engine rev to 5k, and the rear wheel not turn, unless there is an absence of connection between the two. It's probable that either the CVT belt has snapped and jammed the secondary pulley from turning, the clutch is worn out, one of the gears in the drivetrain to the rear wheel has broken and jammed, or that the splines in the wheel hub have worn and the rear axle seized.

Possibly even a combination of one or more of the above.
 
#25 ·
If it is the final drive that is a pretty easy fix . They seldom go bad so they are plentiful and used are very cheap . This story is some what convoluted at this point so it could be several things , many of which are not cheap .
All that said he should be able to trace it down with a few tools and a couple hours work . It would be nice to know some history on the bike , like how many miles on it and if there has been any other problems with it .

TheReaper!
 
#27 ·
It pretty much has to be something in the clutch, transmission, final drive, wheel or brake. Of those the worse would be the transmission. You would have to pull the engine apart to fix that.
 
#28 ·
THe guy that I bought it from said it ran like a top. The first time that it happened I was coming though a corner and it locked at a slow speed. I managed to rock the bike back and forth and it worked fine after that. This last time I had come home and noticed that it was sounding and riving different. When I stopped in my drive I could not move the bike with power applied or pushing it.
 
#32 ·
Peelbrow is right you have to start at the removal of the rear wheel , then go from there . If for what ever reason you can't do that , then you should take it to a qualified shop / mechanic .

Here is a video on the removal of the rear wheel if needed .
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gyqLhWoEMFw

TheReaper!
 
#35 ·
Reaper, no. I revved my bike up and it went to 3,000rpm. I removed the cvt filter and started it and the fan turned. So according to an earlier post the cvt belt is fine. I am going to move to the clutch next unless the consensus is that I should just go to the tire and remove it.
 
#36 ·
I would remove the wheel first and then back from there , I think every one else here would agree with that .

TheReaper!
 
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