[Shoe]

After reassembling my friends 2007 650 (CVT overhaul) the tail lights and license plate light are not working.

Yesterday I removed the rear upper & lower covers as well as the battery tray, checked bulbs and wires leading all the way to where they connect under the battery tray and the wires enter the bundle at that point, disconnected and reconnected both connectors. Brake lights and turn signals work fine.

Schematic shows lead from battery neg terminal via ignition relay (that provides power source when key is on) connects to b/w wire that leads to rear lights, headlights do light with key in on position so I'm guessing that the replay is working properly, though it's an HID upgrade that connects directly to the battery.

I am not able to find any other connection point for the rear lights. The battery while working does need to be trickle charged frequently and if lights are left on for more than 1 minute with engine not running, bike requires a jump start. Hoping to trade bike in soon so don't want to put a new battery in it, but if for some reason a failing battery might be causing problems or damage other components (rectifier), I'll replace it.

Thanks

Paul

 

[MJR]

I would check the fuses to the left of the glove box for starters. I think it's labeled as Signal 15A.

 

[Shoe]

I checked them all, all appear to be good - could not find one that looked like it would govern the running lights.

I'll check them again though

 

[MJR]

I checked them all, all appear to be good - could not find one that looked like it would govern the running lights.

I'll check them again though

Not by itself, Suzuki runs things through things. That fuse feeds the ignition switch which feeds power to the running lights. The wire for the running lamp feed is green at the lamps and goes to brown in the harness to the ignition switch according to my diagram.

 

[NormanB]

......... And another thing.
Do not rely on examining fuses visually, use a meter and check resistance - should be close to zero.

 

[Shoe]

Rechecked fuses last night (visually), removed leg shield, wind screen.. to gain access to dash area to inspect as much of the harness as possible, all looks good - removed battery and tray again, checked all connectors and wires again. As far as I can tell I don't have low beams, plate light and rear running lights. Next I will break out the meter and start checking wires and voltages. I've seen a mention of using a thin copper wire to measure voltage in the back side of connectors that are plugged in, but have been unable to find any commercial product to allow for this, all the copper I have tried just bends - thoughts on this would be helpful.

Thanks!

Paul

 

[MJR]

Try putting the ignition switch in the park lamp position (key in one click left of lock) and see if the running/park lamps work cause the lights are fed off a different feed in that position.

 

[NormanB]

Try testing the fuses as advised - visually just does not cut it.

 

[ErikDK]

Try testing the fuses as advised - visually just does not cut it.

It's easier to look where there's light than under the couch, where the thing you dropped went.

 

[Shoe]

Putting the ignition switch in the park lamp position produced the same results, no tail lights or lic plate light - so weird that brake lights and turning work just fine, could it be a relay?

 

[Buffalo]

No relay that I know of in the tail light wiring. My guess is that you pulled a wire loose in the plug to the tail light harness. I would check to see if you are getting current to the plug. A simple test light is all you need. Undo the plug then use the test light to see if you are getting current to the plug. If you have current coming into the plug then carefully check the taillight side of the plug to see if a wire has been pulled loose.

 

[Gambit1024]

You are down to one of three problems.

Fuse
Ingnition switch
Wires/connectors

You will need one of these:
http://www.shoprvparts.com/product/1010 ... probe.html
to find the problem.

They are available everywhere. Wal-Mart, E-Bay, Auto Parts store, etc.
I have found you get what you pay for with these. The more expensive ones are easier to use, the probe is sharper and thinner and gives the best results.

Take the probe, turn on the park lights on the ingnition, and start from the fuse block. If it is good there, follow the wire to each connection until you find it. (Note: the probe is VERY sharp so be careful with it. You do not have to disconnect connectors to use it, just pierce the wire with the probe. Also, use the negative side of the battery for your ground.)
Time it takes is usualy 1-2 six packs. :thumbup:

Gambit...

 

[MJR]

Well my first thought originally was the two main ground connections under the battery holder/fuel pump cover, hmmm. Well either you got two feeds out or the wiring is open. The tail lamp connectors are under that battery holder/fuel pump cover on the left side by the fuel pump, one for each tail lamp wiring. You could if you have access to the ignition switch unplug it and jumper power to the light circuit (small brown or black/brown wire) to see if the wiring for it to the lights is good.

 

[LeDude]

I had a similar situation on my 04 when I put it back togtether... the left tail light would come on but not the right.

thinking I had messed up somewhere I double checked everything and in the end it turned out to be a bad bulb.

It wasn't obvious visually that the bulb had gone bad as the filaments looked good.

I swapped them around and there was the proof, bad bulb.

If you haven't done so, go buy a new set of bulbs and try them before you spend countless hours trying to find a faulty wire.

good luck....

 

[Shoe]

Well we took the bike to the shop - they say it's bad bulbs and bike needs a new... you guessed it!

Rectifier!

Personally I'm on my third rectifier on my exec - I should carry a spare in my trunk. Dealer wants $240 (hahaha) but I get em from oneida for $160, we are trying a new source on ebay for $101

 

[MJR]

Why not upgrade to the Mosfet one if your having issues with the OE setup?

viewtopic.php?f=6&t=48922

 

[Dave_J]

Why not upgrade to the Mosfet one if your having issues with the OE setup?

http://burgmanusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=48922

The only way to go if a rectifier goes bad, IMHO.