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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a 2012 Burgman 650 executive 55,000 mi with ABS. The rear brake lever would not depress(rock solid) nor would the brakes activate. Took it to locale dealership in SW Ohio, they said rear master cylinder needed rebuilt/replaced. Did not sold the problem. So they went further, said the ABS Hydra Unit Assembly was bad because they got fluid entering the module but nothing coming out. Said the part cost is $2100.00 and they could not locate one. Part number is;
55610-10G03 dealer number provided.

I have checked on Ebay but they are for a 2008 without any part number. Couple questions
  • Are the abs units compatible between 2008 and 2012
  • Dose the shop diagnosis seem reasonable
  • Anyone have any ideas what I could do, already have $550.00 covering the master cylinder work.
Thanks for taking time to respond. Mike
 

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eh does the abs light stay on? did the shop do a good job NO, there were several things they could have tried before throwing YOUR wallet at it next question is what kind of wrenching can YOU do to diagnose/fix it. I get the impression the shop doesn't want to work on your bike, many shops don't work on bikes older than 10 years Drive it on down here (florida) from Cincinatti I'll help you fix it, (don't forget to pick up some refreshin beverages on the way)
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
eh does the abs light stay on? did the shop do a good job NO, there were several things they could have tried before throwing YOUR wallet at it next question is what kind of wrenching can YOU do to diagnose/fix it. I get the impression the shop doesn't want to work on your bike, many shops don't work on bikes older than 10 years Drive it on down here (florida) from Cincinatti I'll help you fix it, (don't forget to pick up some refreshin beverages on the way)
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
The ABS light did not come on, I talked to the the young fellow you did the work, obviously he had all the tupperware off, I was charged 2 hrs for his diagnosis. The dealership said they would install a used unit if I brought it in.
 

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Ima idjit, please clarify, the abs light should have been on and weni out when you got over abour 5 mph, how long have you had the bike? did it work then stop ? can you do ANY mechanical stuff to it YOURSELF? like undo the bolts and move the caliper off the disc?
 

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If the hand lever wouldn't move and there was no ABS light, it doesn't sound like ABS unit or rear brake caliper to me. That sounds like trouble shooting should start at the hand lever.
If you get some more ideas of things to try that involve wrenches, we can get together to make something happen.
---ScooterBob in Cinci
 

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Brake hand levers do get gummed up. I have to take mine apart about every two years.

Under the lever is a 10mm nut. Remove it and then you can unscrew the bolt for the lever. Clean everything up and put a little wheel bearing grease on the bolt. Screw the bolt back down and replace the 10mm nut.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 · (Edited by Moderator)
Holy Moly, what a task to remove the 650 abs module. Down to the last bolt on bracket at left side. Should come out after this bolt removal, not sure how to get this bolt back in after module install. Anyone had any experience replacing
the abs module/motor?
 

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Looked at it once, decided I din't need abs! (fortunately a sensor fixed it)
 

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I'll copy here what I put in the other thread you posted in about this problem. (ABS Hydraulic Unit failure)

The orange block on the electrical connector is the lock that holds the connector to the hydraulic block. You have to release the lock to allow the electrical connector to unplug from the hydraulic side. Normally the locked up brake levers is caused by old brake fluid clogging the filter screens inside the hydraulic block. This was probably caused by not changing the brake fluid regularly. (Don't ask how I know). You will probably have to take the ignition switch assembly loose, not off, just swing it out of the way so you can get the hydraulic block out past it. I suggest having all the mounting bolts tight when trying to break the lines loose, they are very tight, and be sure and use a 10mm "flare nut" wrench on the fittings to keep from messing them up. Also when putting the hydraulic block back in, start the flare nuts on the lines with your fingers to make sure they are not cross threaded, tighten the mounting bolts, then tighten the lines. Thanks to "Parduz" on this forum I was able to get mine fixed. I was unable to find anyone that would work on the hydraulic block but found a used one to put back on.

(I re-sent the PM message to you that got lost in cyber space.)
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I'll copy here what I put in the other thread you posted in about this problem. (ABS Hydraulic Unit failure)

The orange block on the electrical connector is the lock that holds the connector to the hydraulic block. You have to release the lock to allow the electrical connector to unplug from the hydraulic side. Normally the locked up brake levers is caused by old brake fluid clogging the filter screens inside the hydraulic block. This was probably caused by not changing the brake fluid regularly. (Don't ask how I know). You will probably have to take the ignition switch assembly loose, not off, just swing it out of the way so you can get the hydraulic block out past it. I suggest having all the mounting bolts tight when trying to break the lines loose, they are very tight, and be sure and use a 10mm "flare nut" wrench on the fittings to keep from messing them up. Also when putting the hydraulic block back in, start the flare nuts on the lines with your fingers to make sure they are not cross threaded, tighten the mounting bolts, then tighten the lines. Thanks to "Parduz" on this forum I was able to get mine fixed. I was unable to find anyone that would work on the hydraulic block but found a used one to put back on.

(I re-sent the PM message to you that got lost in cyber space.)
Super, thanks I figured out the orange tab that lifts to release the connector and have the ignition post loosened, don't have the allen wrench with hole in it so used grips. All brake lines are loose, I am down to one bolt on the left which is a bracket. attached to the center post. I definitely will pick up the flare nut wrench to reinstall. The lines came loose quite easily without rounding the flare nuts. I am going to purchase an 08 pump of eBay. Man o man what a job. Thanks again for your valuable input and encouragement. Mike
 
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