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Discussion Starter #1
I spent a few hours at my dealer this morning to have them look at the rear brake of my new '13.

For the first 50 miles it felt like the rear disk was warped. The brake lever pulsed. That smoothed out and turned into a mostly a grinding noise for the last few feet of most stops (again pulsing with wheel speed). I wasn't happy about that but the dealer suggested continuing to break it in. That grinding sensation continued past 400 miles but it did become more subtle.

I noticed the other day, closing in on 500 miles, that my rear brake disk carrier was starting to discolor, what looks to me like heat bluing. That made me bring it in, while also advising them of the earlier symptoms. My mileage for the last tank of gas was 46 MPG, not bad for 50/50 city/fast highway, so the brake could not be dragging too badly. The rear wheel has some resistance to turning when the engine is off but I don't know what "normal" feels like, with our long gear train from the engine.

The dealer did not find anything particularly wrong. They adjusted the parking brake. It is supposed to be between 4 and 6 clicks. It was right at 4 clicks before. I very rarely use it (never left it "on" while riding either). I suppose I should be glad they did not find anything but how paranoid would you be now? "What was that sound?!" :)
 

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I spent a few hours at my dealer this morning to have them look at the rear brake of my new '13.

For the first 50 miles it felt like the rear disk was warped. The brake lever pulsed. That smoothed out and turned into a mostly a grinding noise for the last few feet of most stops (again pulsing with wheel speed). I wasn't happy about that but the dealer suggested continuing to break it in. That grinding sensation continued past 400 miles but it did become more subtle.

I noticed the other day, closing in on 500 miles, that my rear brake disk carrier was starting to discolor, what looks to me like heat bluing. That made me bring it in, while also advising them of the earlier symptoms. My mileage for the last tank of gas was 46 MPG, not bad for 50/50 city/fast highway, so the brake could not be dragging too badly. The rear wheel has some resistance to turning when the engine is off but I don't know what "normal" feels like, with our long gear train from the engine.

The dealer did not find anything particularly wrong. They adjusted the parking brake. It is supposed to be between 4 and 6 clicks. It was right at 4 clicks before. I very rarely use it (never left it "on" while riding either). I suppose I should be glad they did not find anything but how paranoid would you be now? "What was that sound?!" :)

Some photos of the discoloration would help to see. On the centerstand bike running, brake off does the rear wheel spin idling? If not how much throttle do you have to give it before it does?

There is no Park or gears to keep your bike from rolling away if someone bumped it or on an angle. On the centerstand it might be ok but the sidestand I would use the brake.

Not sure where in So Cal you are but I'm in Costa Mesa if you want me to have a look.
 

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One sure way to tell if the rear brake is dragging is to remove the caliper from the wheel and see if it turns easier.

I would suspect the pulsing you are feeling might indicate a warped rotor. Put the bike one the center stand and hold something close to the rotor then turn the wheel to see if distance between the rotor and the object changes.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I admit to not having looked myself at the rotor. You're right that a warp should be measurable. Heck, I even have a deflection gauge and magnetic base somewhere in my tool box...

MJR, my rear wheel has never spun at idle on the center stand, even during near-1500 RPM cold idle. I'll have to see what RPM does move it and take a photo of the coloring. Sitting on the tires, it takes something around 1700 RPM for me to feel any engagement. I suspect 2013's might have a different engagement than earlier years because Suzuki supposedly changed the drivetrain for higher efficiency (I'd expect it to move easier/lower RPM than earlier years though, unless the clutch was also changed). The side stand has the original kill-switch so a roll-away is not possible.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Here's a quick photo of the discolored disk carrier. My front brakes have no similar coloring and this appearance happened sometime between 200 and 400 miles (yeah, I should look around it more often, lol).
 

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I admit to not having looked myself at the rotor. You're right that a warp should be measurable. Heck, I even have a deflection gauge and magnetic base somewhere in my tool box...

MJR, my rear wheel has never spun at idle on the center stand, even during near-1500 RPM cold idle. I'll have to see what RPM does move it and take a photo of the coloring. Sitting on the tires, it takes something around 1700 RPM for me to feel any engagement. I suspect 2013's might have a different engagement than earlier years because Suzuki supposedly changed the drivetrain for higher efficiency (I'd expect it to move easier/lower RPM than earlier years though, unless the clutch was also changed). The side stand has the original kill-switch so a roll-away is not possible.
If there is a warping issue you should see it visually as the wheel spins not to mention the floating caliper will move back/forth. You could have someone run the throttle up till it spins. I could see this on my '09 after a tire change as the rotor got bent slightly but I didn't have that discoloration.

Yes the clutch was changed on the '13 and up models but you might get a idea if the caliper is sticking/binding by how much throttle it takes to spin or for that matter pushing the bike around. It certainly looks like the brakes were dragging causing the discoloration. Also looks like a lot of scoring for low miles.

The issue isn't a runaway bike while it's running. The CVT on the Burgman has no Park position or gear to hold to keep it from rolling while it sits parked, that's why it has the parking brake was all I was saying. :)
 

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Hmmm as MJR says, that's a <lot> of scoring on a new rotor -- my 2004 with 23,000 miles doesn't look that bad. Maybe you should ask the dealer to replace the rear rotor and disc pads and check the adjustment of the brake-lock mechanism.

The 650's rear wheel does have some resistance to turning when the bike is off, especially if it's cold. Not sure if the 2013 is any different but Suzuki did claim to reduce the clutch drag to make the bike easier to push by hand.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Okay I measured and there is something less than 5 mil (0.005") of runout in that disk now, my gauge bounces a bit otherwise I'd say 3 mils, so nearly perfect. As far as the grooving on the disk, I know they appear significant but I can't feel any with a fingernail (at all), so they are something less than 2 mils deep.

I have to believe there was, at one time, a drag from the parking brake to cause that carrier coloring.
 

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That rotor definitely got too hot at some point and the outer edge looks terrible. I would take it back to the dealer and make them replace the rotor and pads and probably the caliper also, I would not want that rotor trying to save my life if I was in a bad spot.
 

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2013-2014 650 have floting front disk now, perhap better that Suzuki do same with rear as previously to 2013 650 from 2002 to 2012 model have excellent and extremely useful engine braking so use bike brake much less then, now with less engine braking rear brake be used much more and perhap heat up more.

Disappointed about lost engine braking.
 

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My back brake disc carrier looks EXACTLY like the one pictured above. This occurred over one 70-mile ride, because I clean my bike every day, and there was no bluing or heat damage before I left for my ride. Since then, I suspected that the brake lock might have been left on, as I use it all of the time, but the red light did not display on the console. Also, I have taken a 20-mile round trip ride without using the back brakes at all, and when I got back you could fry an egg on the back rotor. I have only 4500 miles. The dealer says there is no adjustment, and I am taking it to them tomorrow for them to look at. Any ideas what might be happening? I don't ride the brakes at all, and I don't cover them in intersections either. I think the dealer is trying to wiggle his way out of this, but logic dictates that SOMETHING must be wrong. Any pointers would be appreciated. I have a terminal illness, and my bike is about all the enjoyment I can get anymore. When I'm riding, I'm not worrying or fretting. I don't mind paying the money for big repairs if its my fault, but by golly, I didn't do anything to hurt my baby. Is it OCD to have 16 different types of polishes, waxes, cleaners, etc. to clean your bike? Maybe a bit anal retentive? Anyway, I get a daily look at my whole bike to see if something is wrong, which is how I discovered the back brake problem. Thank you in advance for any advice. Cal.
 

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I just looked at at my 2013 Burgman's rear rotor and it looks normal with no sign of overheating. I use the front and rear brake every time I come to a stop. That picture posted by the original poster doesn't look normal to me.
 

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That heat discoloration is not normal. I had a similar situation on my Yamaha Venture Royale when the rear brake wasn't releasing enough due to some corrosion on the caliper piston. The heat from the pads dragging caused the same type of rotor discoloration and fried the piston boots and seals; the rubber cap on the bleeder even melted!
 

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It is NOT normal for a brake rotor to be that hot after riding 20 miles, especially if it has not been used during the ride.

The parking brake is of course adjustable and it likely too tight; print this out, go back to the lying bastards (that may be too harsh--perhaps they are just stupid) and tell them to fix it:

 

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I would absolutely insist that the dealer correct this problem. Discoloration of the rotor is not normal like that - my 650 has over 28,000 miles on her and there's no discoloration at all.
 

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It is NOT normal for a brake rotor to be that hot after riding 20 miles, especially if it has not been used during the ride.

The parking brake is of course adjustable and it likely too tight; print this out, go back to the lying bastards (that may be too harsh--perhaps they are just stupid) and tell them to fix it:

+1

It's sounds suspiciously as though the park brake isn't releasing...
 

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Repairs are under warranty

Good News; the repairs are going to be under warranty. The service guys said that the brake lock probably did not retract to the correct position at some time when it was released. The slightest bit of unnecessary pressure on the pads from the brakes lock will cause bluing, with eventual warping of the rotor and melting/malfunction of the components. They didn't argue at all about this being covered by warranty; they believed me when I told them that I never ride the brakes and I've never ridden with the parking brake on. It's nice to have a dealer that I can trust, and one that will go to bat for me when there is a problem that I'm helpless to control. Thanks for all the input from fellow BUSA members.

Cal.
 

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s it OCD to have 16 different types of polishes, waxes, cleaners, etc. to clean your bike? Maybe a bit anal retentive?
I dunno about that, but in my view, it's a horrible way for someone with a terminal illness to spend their time. Not trying to be offensive...but **** man.....all the time spent cleaning it is time you could spend riding it!

I don't even feel good about wasting time mowing my yard or taking a dump - and I'm relatively healthy (as far as I know).

Be well.
 

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Good News; the repairs are going to be under warranty. The service guys said that the brake lock probably did not retract to the correct position at some time when it was released. The slightest bit of unnecessary pressure on the pads from the brakes lock will cause bluing, with eventual warping of the rotor and melting/malfunction of the components. They didn't argue at all about this being covered by warranty; they believed me when I told them that I never ride the brakes and I've never ridden with the parking brake on. It's nice to have a dealer that I can trust, and one that will go to bat for me when there is a problem that I'm helpless to control. Thanks for all the input from fellow BUSA members.
Good news!!
 
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