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WOW if that works on my 04 even I can do it! Need to just cut the other 20 pages of stuff and leave that as a sticky. The youtube video is amazing, what a help.

I will order that part immediately.

Thank you.
 

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Recently returned to the Burgman 650 fold, with another K3. This has had the "Polish kit" fix by the previous owner, and runs beautifully quietly. Just wondered if there are any owners on here who have done this mod, and have run it for some time. How is it holding up?
 

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Chrism3, we would need to know what year of bike you have. This adapter is ONLY for 2002-2004 AN650s!
 

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Riding my NEW TO ME 2003 650 to work yesterday, with fresh new tires front and rear, it developed a wherling noise. I pulled over and checked things out and nothing was rubbing and I could hear nothing but the diesel noise idling. So I rode all the way to work and NOW I can hear the noise at idle too. On the centerstand it is coming from the CVT filter area. (Westnash will be proud.) Just at 38,230 miles. I made it home and the noise has not gotten any louder. I will pull the stopper bolt and look-see.

So, ride it till it fails?
Pull the CVT and put my spare 03's in it?
Put this BLUE 03's tupperware on my crashed 08's frame and ride?
 

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Recently returned to the Burgman 650 fold, with another K3. This has had the "Polish kit" fix by the previous owner, and runs beautifully quietly. Just wondered if there are any owners on here who have done this mod, and have run it for some time. How is it holding up?
After 10k miles with the Polish adapter, no dieseling, running smooth as silk. I have total confidence in the bike.
Same here after about 11,000 miles since my repair with upgraded adapter installed and still running excellent!
 

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NOW you tell me!

I am forlorn - an easily prevented problem is now a season ending disaster if only I had been on these Burgman sites before - I bought my Dad's 2006 Burgman K5 after he passed away, from my stepmother. A couple of days ago the bike started making a jingling noise on my ride home. When I tracked it down it turned out to be the main pulley bolt loose and jangling around in its hole, stripped and useless even though I still had power and shifting seemed okay - the splines on the sliding piece seem okay though there were some metal shavings in the hole - I can't believe this is happening with only 12K miles on the bike and am unlikely to be able to afford to have the engine cracked open and fixed professionally - is this now an expensive paperweight, or can I do this job myself - I have experience working on cars (done own brakes rotors calipers etc.) but nothing this complex... What the ****, Suzuki??
Stu
 

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According to several on this site this could never happen and if it did it was 1 in a million. My friends 2006 started the same at 7,000 miles and the dealer said nothing was wrong. The CVT imploded at 20,000 with a $4,000 repair bill. I rode it just a few thousand and another CVT piece went down again with another large bill. Maybe it is the 2006 or maybe a lemon or maybe a bad dealer fix...but it makes me very leery of the older machines.

I probably told you all this before, and hopefully yours will be less costly. There is not a great deal of value in a 2006 so be careful what you spend. Maybe some who say it never happens will buy from you at a good price.
 

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I am forlorn - an easily prevented problem is now a season ending disaster if only I had been on these Burgman sites before - I bought my Dad's 2006 Burgman K5 after he passed away, from my stepmother. A couple of days ago the bike started making a jingling noise on my ride home. When I tracked it down it turned out to be the main pulley bolt loose and jangling around in its hole, stripped and useless even though I still had power and shifting seemed okay - the splines on the sliding piece seem okay though there were some metal shavings in the hole - I can't believe this is happening with only 12K miles on the bike and am unlikely to be able to afford to have the engine cracked open and fixed professionally - is this now an expensive paperweight, or can I do this job myself - I have experience working on cars (done own brakes rotors calipers etc.) but nothing this complex... What the ****, Suzuki??
Stu
Sadly Suzuki at some point later issued a service bulletin in one of the markets with a procedure to regularly check and retorque that bolt. From some of the reading on that most are able to buy a new bolt and install it since the threads in the shaft are usually ok. Another thing would be to get a tap on an extension and chase the threads a little and blow the crap out.
 

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And has been discussed on here many times, the bolt is probably just a warning sign but not the problem. Do some reading on here in the recent threads and you will see more and better understand the potential problems. There are several experts and I am not one.
 

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And has been discussed on here many times, the bolt is probably just a warning sign but not the problem. Do some reading on here in the recent threads and you will see more and better understand the potential problems. There are several experts and I am not one.
Sounds like your describing the stopper bolt? The bolt being described sounds to me like the adapter bolt which I have heard of others coming loose.
 

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Stu2, The 2006 and only the 2006 seem to have the adapter bolt come loose and rattle around and most that have have punched a hole in the "LEFT" side cover. This is not the stopper bolt on the "RIGHT" side down low on the CVT itself. Marilynsprince Just had this happen RIGHT before his 8,000 mile trip From Redding CA to Alaska and back. He was able to clean it out, put LOCTIGHT BLUE on the NEW bolt's thread and get it back in. So a new bolt, a new cover and some time with some long Q-Tips and some WD-40 and you should be back on the road.

But DO check your stopper bolt too as they may show signs of fore coming problems. If its tip is just knicked up its OK but gouged more than 1/3 of the way, trouble may be coming so Pay $6 - $12 and buy a new one and have it on hand.

So look on this thread and see if this is your problem: http://burgmanusa.com/forums/15-burgman-650/109954-what.html
 

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I have 10,000 miles on the Polish adapter in my K4 and it's as wonderfully quiet as the day I installed the adapter. It's worth every penny (and more). Now if he would just build some replacement reinforced-carbon keys for the primary pulley ...

Recently returned to the Burgman 650 fold, with another K3. This has had the "Polish kit" fix by the previous owner, and runs beautifully quietly. Just wondered if there are any owners on here who have done this mod, and have run it for some time. How is it holding up?
 

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I've seen several 06's that have come loose now , not one to date has had any Loctite residue on it the threads .


TheReaper!

























Stu2, The 2006 and only the 2006 seem to have the adapter bolt come loose and rattle around and most that have have punched a hole in the "LEFT" side cover. This is not the stopper bolt on the "RIGHT" side down low on the CVT itself. Marilynsprince Just had this happen RIGHT before his 8,000 mile trip From Redding CA to Alaska and back. He was able to clean it out, put LOCTIGHT BLUE on the NEW bolt's thread and get it back in. So a new bolt, a new cover and some time with some long Q-Tips and some WD-40 and you should be back on the road.

But DO check your stopper bolt too as they may show signs of fore coming problems. If its tip is just knicked up its OK but gouged more than 1/3 of the way, trouble may be coming so Pay $6 - $12 and buy a new one and have it on hand.

So look on this thread and see if this is your problem: http://burgmanusa.com/forums/15-burgman-650/109954-what.html
 

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That is very interesting and I remember the mechanic said the same on the 2nd repair. I thought he was talking about the stopper bolt but obviously it was this one because he said after the repair that he used Loctite as the procedure called for. But the damage did not take out the belt but stripped the plastic gears.
 

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I've seen several 06's that have come loose now , not one to date has had any Loctite residue on it the threads .
They don't from the factory. The service manual recommends oil and the service bulletin recommends removing, re oiling, and re torqueing the bolt periodically.
 

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You're right Dave - I just want to recommend Treyson Racing in Great Barrington Mass., I trailered it down there after talking with the 'local' Suzuki dealer who was talking cracking the engine for proper diagnosis blah blah blah and Trevor, the chief mechanic was on his knees in the parking lot within 5 minutes with a socket wrench, took it in and said he could re-tap it for a small fee and put in a new bolt and I'd be good to go - he would have done it on the spot but couldn't find his long tap extension...it was the bolt on the 'left' which had bowed out but not yet ruptured the silly little tin cover. I will have to call him Tuesday morning to make sure he puts loctite on it...thanks guys! So relieved...and wondering what other unique challenges the 2006 model might provide? The other issue I had was when changing the final gear oil, the second I removed the fill plug oil started leaking out...!? Turns out someone (might have been my dad, he was 70 when he traded in his top-heavy bikes for the sooperscooter and liked to do his own maintenance but maybe shouldn't have?) had overfilled with 500ml of hypoid rather than 300!! Before the bolt problem happened I thought I saw some improvement in power esp. low speed torque but I wouldn't swear to it...in any case it didn't kill the IceBurg, so, movin on...
So, check stop bolt on 'right', got it...what else might have caused the bolt to loosen, just lack of re-torquing or maybe some other fault - I live in a tiny mountain town and it's about 1200 feet of elevation change on a winding 8 mile road to do ANYTHING (like buy a quart of milk!) so the engine gets a lot of work. On the plus side we don't have a police force just a constable who is an older gentleman who stands by our wooden ballot box and cranks the handle when we vote, so pick your speed and ride!!!
 

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I would like to add to the advice about the primary shaft failure. I have an 2004 with the familiar deiseling sound which I improved the sound by working moly grease around the primary adaptor spline. But after doing a tour round France clocking some big mileage totals and started to notice the sound had changed. a few hundred miles later the pimary shaft spline had stripped. After stripping out cvt I found the the primary adapter spline was slightly worn but I could see the problem had been caused by the bearing seizing on the primary shaft reducing the diameter of the shaft allowing for oscilation to occur resulting in excess wear. So my advice is to take out the primary adapter gear regulary and check for any sign of wear on the inner cog. On the 2003/4 model there is a redisigned primary adapter gear from a guy in poland as refered to in previous threads, I would recomend this part as I just refitted one and it is machined perfectly to size and one post has said that many thousands of miles later was still in perfect working order. So when you have the loud deiseling noise do the modification it could save you a cople of thousand dollars.
 

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