As Murphy always says.... If you are going to have a major break down, it will happen in the worst place furtherest from home base.
This has happened to me for the second time in the bikes 8 year life. The 24mm nut securing the variator assembly has worked loose, resulting in the outer drive cone working its way out into the casing, grinding itself to bits.
I have been aware of the problems that can occur when tightening this nut, ie. belt interferance, and have always added a drop of LOKTITE to ensure the nut doesn't work loose. But it happened again.
I have studied the damage and noted the fretting marks on the steel drive plate which indicates movement. Also the serrated/splined centre hole on the steel drive plate is almost chewed out. No matter how hard you do up the nut, radial shock loads will in time overcome the resistance and allow the plate to move resulting in the assembly loosening and spline damage. Unfortunately there is no tabbed washer and slot to secure the nut if it had been designed properly, only the use of thread lock which is not up to the job.
I recommend that when you have to replace any part of the variator assembly, tighten the main nut, followed by thread lock and another lock nut. There should be around 4 threads left on the shaft, just enough room for this purpose. Had the nut not moved, the clearance caused by fretting, the spline on the steel plate would have chewed out and destroyed the main engine shaft. New Engine. May be I'm lucky?? jD
This has happened to me for the second time in the bikes 8 year life. The 24mm nut securing the variator assembly has worked loose, resulting in the outer drive cone working its way out into the casing, grinding itself to bits.
I have been aware of the problems that can occur when tightening this nut, ie. belt interferance, and have always added a drop of LOKTITE to ensure the nut doesn't work loose. But it happened again.
I have studied the damage and noted the fretting marks on the steel drive plate which indicates movement. Also the serrated/splined centre hole on the steel drive plate is almost chewed out. No matter how hard you do up the nut, radial shock loads will in time overcome the resistance and allow the plate to move resulting in the assembly loosening and spline damage. Unfortunately there is no tabbed washer and slot to secure the nut if it had been designed properly, only the use of thread lock which is not up to the job.
I recommend that when you have to replace any part of the variator assembly, tighten the main nut, followed by thread lock and another lock nut. There should be around 4 threads left on the shaft, just enough room for this purpose. Had the nut not moved, the clearance caused by fretting, the spline on the steel plate would have chewed out and destroyed the main engine shaft. New Engine. May be I'm lucky?? jD