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09 Suzuki Burgman Executive(AN650A)
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I did a search through forum to see if anyone else had some experiences with this amazing engineering feet. I am surprised to see not a single discussion.
So, I guess my noob(to this forum) posterior will introduce the non-disposable oil filter to y'all.

My mechanic told me about this filter which he introduces to a lot of his Harley customers; that, and many bikes can swap oil filters. I had purchased two for my CBR650F(which has the same part# as my old 600rr). I checked this out for the Burg and found that it shares the part number to the GSX-R 750, of the same year... which is universal to all 650 Burgman scooters.

I've owned my 2016 CBR650F(3rd born馃挀) since Oct 16(brand new). She's had her PC filter for most of her life(almost 40k). I've ridden her to my peak(132mph), so the filter can handle performance. I purchased two; so I can just swap it with the clean one every oil change, and not leave the engine without a filter while it gets cleaned(which means I change the o-rings every other year, instread of every 12 months when you own just one). I have a large jar that I can drop the filter case and filter element in KEROSENE(CHEAP and SAFE).

These are not cheap-o filters. These are life-of-the-bike filters. They are not inexpensive, but if you do the math over a 3 year span, the filter will pay for itself. $5 o-ring(2pack) every other year. So, anyone that hasn't heard of this filter and plans on owning their scoot for life(like myself), I recommend looking into the PC Racing oil filter.
Honestly, I am surprised I'm introducing this. 馃槜
 

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The math still stands like ya said even at the price I've been getting filters at, but..where ya getting 7 buck filters and which ones are they?

I did the math.
I put on a new $7 filter each year for a total year cost of $21.
Your filters are $120 each plus $5/year for orings , plus $5 for kerosene, for a total 3 year cost of $270, as you do it, or if you had just 1, $150.
馃檮
 

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true dat , but at 10 dollars a filter, after 15 years the filter pays for itself and you are just paying 10 a year for o rings and kerosene, , no disposal of filters to worry about, and the kerosene can be burned in the garage heater and it will smell like a harley, I am good at math like this, seeing I just bought an electric bike, it will pay for itself in 170 years, if I just don't count the cost of replacing the batteries every 5 years or so
 

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The math still stands like ya said even at the price I've been getting filters at, but..where ya getting 7 buck filters and which ones are they?

I actually paid $7.50 with free shipping.

I also bought a couple of the Wix version for $7- something from Amazon last year with free shipping
 

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MikeyM, I'll fly down and shoot videos of your ZERO's Oil change and Sparkplug change too.
 
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Long as you can get the o rings sure, but there also is a question of does it filter as well as a paper filter, & if not, what's the real world impact of that?

true dat , but at 10 dollars a filter, after 15 years the filter pays for itself and you are just paying 10 a year for o rings and kerosene, , no disposal of filters to worry about, and the kerosene can be burned in the garage heater and it will smell like a harley, I am good at math like this, seeing I just bought an electric bike, it will pay for itself in 170 years, if I just don't count the cost of replacing the batteries every 5 years or so
 
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Only a consideration if you assume your time has no value. You can burn used motor oil and kerosene, that's a wash. I seriously doubt that any media that can be cleaned without using an ultrasonic bath could filter as well as a disposable media. If you want to increase engine life add a bypass filter that will filter to 1 micron. Not that I did, because on the scoot it would take up a huge amount of space. On a vehicle though, I currently have a prius with 357,000 miles and oil usage measures 1 qt. in 3800 miles. That's better than some new VW and BMW's. But, do what you want. I've spent a lot of money and sweat on vehicles that I later realized made no sense. Some I'll never admit to. Just shrug and say it was fun.

This is from amsoil, one of the few filter manufacturers that will tell you what their filter's efficiency actually is.
"Filters using traditional media are often only 40 to 80 percent efficient at 20 microns. In extensive testing, the full line of AMSOIL Ea Oil Filters achieves a near- perfect absolute efficiency rating of 98.7 per-cent at 20 microns, making each filter among the most efficient available for autos/light trucks."
 

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I sorta question the facts when the fuller brush salesman says the bristles won't fall out. Maybe he is tellin the truth, but not tellin me the bristles are made of ten penny nails and driv thru a hunk of granite. would a filter that filtered a hennert percent, allow oil to flow thru quick enough to satisfy the demands of the engine it was screwed onto ? the zuki engines perform immenslely well with the oem non perfect filter. Ima be satisfied with that and spend my money on other things and my time on findin a more perfect,,, uh,, entertainer , down at the Klub
 

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09 Suzuki Burgman Executive(AN650A)
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Discussion Starter · #12 · (Edited)
TL;DR: It's just under eight years to be more cost effective than the cheapest of the cheap filters.

I put on a new $7 filter each year for a total year cost of $21.
... Now, I wanna do some math.

I have a connection at O'reilly's, so I am able to use their discount to get the cheapo filters for ~$6.

I put miles and I'm hard on my engine, so I change my oil and filter every 4(or 3 on synthetic) months. That's $24 a year for cheap, don't go over 80mph for long or rev high for long or have any features, filters.

...
Now let look at the pcs2.

Say I spent $140 for everything.
I'd only have to start buying o-ring by year 3, and they come as a 2 pack.
I haven't changed the kerosene, since I put it in my jar in '17, since it's acting as a solvent(but now I'm going to buy a garage heater 馃槅). I have plenty left in the gallon I got from Wally-world, but we'll add another $15/3yrs(arbitrarily for argument's sake).

...Let's math: (simple math, not taking into consideration any inflation)

====================================
Cheapo @ 3 years(if it lasted this long) : $72

____

PCS2 @ 3 years(if it lasted this long) : $160
Initial - $155 ($140 and $15 for 2 gallons of kerosene)

Kerosene - $0

O-rings - $5

====================================
Cheapo @ 8 years(if it lasted this long) : $192
____

PCS2 @ 8 years(if it lasted this long) : $185
Initial - $155 ($140 and $15 for 2 gallons of kerosene)

Kerosene - $15

O-rings - $15

These are not cheap-o filters. These are life-of-the-bike filters. They are not inexpensive, but if you do the math over a 3 year span, the filter will pay for itself. $5 o-ring(2pack) every other year. So, anyone that hasn't heard of this filter and plans on owning their scoot for life(like myself), I recommend looking into the PC Racing oil filter.
So, I got my initial math off. It would take just under 8 years, IF we're using the cheapest oil filters we can find.
For 8 years, I would have to deal with a premium filter, which has specs for racing and will gather metal particulates(further protecting the engine).

Here's all my math. 馃樀yes. I this was time consuming but now I know. 馃う鈥嶁檪锔廇lso, I now realize this would have been easier if I had done 3 year increments.


====================================
====================================
====================================
====================================


Cheapo @ 20 years(if it lasted this long) : $480
____
PCS2 @ 20 years(if it lasted this long) : $275
Initial - $140 and $15 for 2 gallons of kerosene
Kerosene - $90
O-rings - $45
====================================
Cheapo @ 10 years(if it lasted this long) : $240

____

PCS2 @ 10 years(if it lasted this long) : $205
Initial - $155 ($140 and $15 for 2 gallons of kerosene)

Kerosene - $30

O-rings - $20

====================================
Cheapo @ 8 years(if it lasted this long) : $192

____

PCS2 @ 8 years(if it lasted this long) : $185
Initial - $155 ($140 and $15 for 2 gallons of kerosene)

Kerosene - $15

O-rings - $15

====================================
Cheapo @ 5 years(if it lasted this long) : $120

____

PCS2 @ 5 years(if it lasted this long) : $180
Initial - $155 ($140 and $15 for 2 gallons of kerosene)

Kerosene - $15

O-rings - $10

====================================
Cheapo @ 3 years(if it lasted this long) : $72

____

PCS2 @ 3 years(if it lasted this long) : $160
Initial - $155 ($140 and $15 for 2 gallons of kerosene)

Kerosene - $0

O-rings - $5
...
 

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Think you need to factor in your mileage. Me for example I do 15k miles a year so 8 years 120k by then the bike will have blown up and I will be stuck with a blown up bike and an expensive oil filter that wont fit my next bike. I will stick to my Champion oil filters they have managed 68k so far. (y) (y)I am a cynic by nature 馃榿:cool:
 

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09 Suzuki Burgman Executive(AN650A)
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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Individually, you're correct.
If dealing with a bike with that many miles is a hamper to your decision, then make the choice which puts you at ease.

My engine only has 14k, and I plan on putting the next 114k.
 

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Another point to look at is the filters Micron size catch. Almost all "RACING" filters catch 40+ micron size "CHUNKS" because you will be dumping that contaminated oil after the 500 mile race. These sizes of chunks will do a lot of damage inside the engine if not dumped after the race interval.

Race duty is not good for street duty. Race parts are not designed to go 100,000 miles.

But we do our oil changes in the (if you're anal) 2000 miles to (in my case) 7200 miles. We can not have these 40 Micron size chunks flowing in our bearings if you want 100,000+ miles life from the engine. So our common street filter (Full Flow) will filter about 15-20 Microns. Still not real good but if the filter were tighter it will not flow enough oil for the engines demands.

This is where a designed "By-Pass" filter comes in. They are not small so very hard to fit on a motorcycle.
A By-pass system takes about 85-90% of the oil from the oil pump and sends it to the Full flow filter but tee's off 10-15% of the filtered oil and and sends it to a 1-2 Micron "Restricted Flow" filter and that super filtered oil is dumped back into the oil sump. This constant 2 micron filtering will super clean all the oil in 100's of passes.

By-pass systems are not practical for most car's/truck/motorcycle use. The filters are about 5 inch in diameter and 12-18 inch long. But in long haul trucking it is very practical saving $1,000 on oil changes every year. This is something I can explain in depth on another thread as it is a long subject.

Oil filter threads are almost as entertaining as an Oil thread. Or Octane threads. Hard to explain or get accepted that Race parts are not good for street
 

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Race duty is not good for street duty. Race parts are not designed to go 100,000 miles.
Couldn鈥檛 agree more.

Often just sales blurb but anything that is truly 鈥渞ace鈥 is for racing, completely different set of problems...great if you are going to completely rebuild the machine every third ride.
 
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