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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Started new topic because -- new problem added to the Wire Harness Tie Down problem. :mad::confused:

Next Problem is -- the darn cover (talking the inner metal one) will not pull off. Could barely jigggle it - pulling hard enough gripping the two exhaust ports att eh bottom and anywhere else I could get a hold on it to move the scooter around (at least making it shake).

I then got a thin pairing knife and inserted it between the cover and case in various places. Maybe got 1/32 inch all around. I THINK the Guide pin at top right is holding it.

Friend coming over to look at it (he used to be a MC Mechanic and recently bought a front end wrecked 400 (2005) model and put a new front end on it and sold it. He also changed the CVT Belt and changed weights. He thinks there is still a bolt someplace (I am 100% sure not - well 99.999% - leave room for a little error). HA!

Anyway, back on here to see if anyone else has had this problem??? And, to look at the video again. I wrote oput proceduere wehnI watched the video, so pretty sure I am OK there.
 

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Paul, remove the 2 bottom exhaust mount bolts. Next insert them in the two CVT cover removal bolt holes. Make certain the CVT cover retaining bolts are all removed. Then using a wrench gently wind each bolt clockwise a half turn each at a time. The cover will slowly come off. You need to hold the CVT cover even as it comes away and gently tap the case any where it sticks. It will come off. Often the case gets stuck on the clutch end shaft bearing but the bolts will make it move. Good luck!
 

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Here's the video feat CVT cover tool (2:23). Paying att to QM ;) me still thinks this is a better option than two bolts

 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks again -- Likely a much better procedure than what we (Friend Etric came over to help) did. We ended up prying and pulling - got it past the guide pins which were not causing the problem.

Eric did not know there was a bearing (must not have been on his 2005 model). d we questioned what was holding it.

I had seen pictures and knew there was some sort of bearing connection to the cover. We kept pulling and prying and finally it came off.

I HOPE WE DID NOT MESS ANYTHING UP. Hope installation is not as bad.

I will take a closer look at what you presented later (for future reference). Gosh, I wish we had a LeDude type information (he has such details).

Getting late here in East TN (11:40PM).

I sure appreciate all the come backs :) seems I am jumping ahead of the information :(
 

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Gosh, I wish we had a LeDude type information (he has such details).
Check out Midbergsma on youtube: http://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=micbergsma%20burgman%2007%2B&sm=1

He's got videos on many Burgman 400 topics (plus, much more).

Note that the bearing is supposed to come off with the cover, held in place by two small retainers. In many instances the bearing hangs up on the shaft and the retainers bend with removal of the cover and leave the bearing behind. In that case, remove the bearing with a puller, clean up the shaft and the mating surface of the bearing with some emory cloth, grease things up and reinstall the bearing in the cover. The retainers may or may not be salvageable, as they sometimes crack when straightening them out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks for the heads up on the clips that hold the bearing in the cover. Mine appear to be OK despite the effort to gett he cover off.

I did have the link to the Videos and have many of them as favorites in my computer. I viewed them and made notes (wrote procedures) for various operations including the removal of CVT (of course includes cover removal).

The video makes it look simple -- his cover came off easily. :confused: and his installation looked simple -- cover went on easily. We shall see what happens with me :confused:

Also, thanks for the tip on lubricating the shaft before putting the cover back on. We (Friend Eric) had debated that and he suggested not too much lubricant. But, seeing the Video on installation, I note the guy used considerable lube.

My Main Concern now is getting it back together - figuring the problem we had getting the shaft out of the bearing, will it go back in as hard. Other Main Concern is if we damaged something with all the uneven pulling, shaking, prying the cover off VS a nice even pull had we used Quantum's suggestion.

Again -- Thanks to everyone that input. Some good people on here.

Some pictures showing Belt, Pulleys, Clutch Shaft, Bearing in Cover, Cleaned up shaft and I also cleaned the bearing.

I will check FILL LEVEL on the Final Drive and TRY to put it all back together. Not going to drain and filas only have 6000 miles on the Scoot. Will do it all again in 6000 or so miles.
 

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If you use anti-sieze instead of grease on the end of the shaft and the alignment pins the next time you have to remove it you will find it much easier, probably pull it off by hand! SAFE SCOOTIN Jay
 

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When I first tried to get mine off, I used a putty knife and messed up the metal gasket. Fortunately, I was able to straighten it back out when I finally got the cover off (using the two-bolt method).
good idea with the mirror.
My next project is to make the tool to hold the clutch and CVT while torquing .
 

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Paul, well done! But don't leave the rear transmission oil until 12000 miles. It should be done at 7500. The first time you change it there is often metal particles in the oil. So its a must do and is so easy.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Thanks again for the inputs.

One of the guys on My E Mail Ride List suggested anti-sieze. I had not thought of that (good idea). I did not have any, so just went wit a little greese.

I decided not to change the Final Drive Oil. I checked the level by adding a few ounces and letting it drain down at the level hole.

Things went back on easily and test ride was OK.

Made the following two (2) modifications.

I could not straighten the wire gasket enough to get a good fit on all the holes (bolt and guide pin holes). So, having read previously about someone not using a gasket and anoteh ablout someone using Painter's Blue Tap. I decided to use the Painter's Tape. Figuring no liguids involved and jsut wanted to avoid Metal to Metal (Cover to Case). Called a Jury Rig - hope does not cause a problem.

Then I did the modification to the Wire Harness ties.

The two that I had not broken (still inserted in the cover), but that I had cut to get the harness loose, I punched a hole in the balck strap and used 'lacing cord' to tie the bundle to the strap.

The one that I had broken (pulled out of the cover hole), I used a wall hanger type plastic insert, and a screw thru it. Then used lacing cord to tie the bundle to the screw.
 

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