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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I tore down the Burg back in January and installed the Rostra cruise control, but that was a piece of cake, (Thank you Redbeard) compared to painting the beast. It was black so I painted over with lite grey primer, then the yellow base coat. Wow, I used up a half gallon of paint, (one to one paint and reducer) and had to go buy another quart of paint to finish. Yellow takes a lot to cover! The base coat is done and I will put on the clear coat tomorrow. I have to put the clear on within 24 hours of the base coat. Using the purple paint gun from Harbor freight and so far it has done a great job.
 

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I'm still filling and wet-sanding. Are you saying you used 1 quart of yellow plus 1 quart of reducer and that wasn't enough? How many coats of yellow did you apply and how much overlap did you use between spray passes? The paint I'm using (PPG candy-apple red) wants a 90% overlap for the gold base and the red transparent paints and now I'm thinking that I need some more of those colors before I even begin.

Which paints did you buy?

Do you know which size air cap that HF purple gun has? My HVLP has a 1.5mm and I was thinking about trying to find a 1.3mm to shoot the candy coats and clearcoat.

Did you use activator in any of the primer or color coats or did you just let them flash off?

THANKS in advance for the help, I'm still weeks away from spraying.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I am using ppg shopline, the lowest quality of the line. The basecoat was sprayed over a lite grey primer. When the yellow first goes on it had a green tint with the grey under it. There are so many angles and small edges that are 90 degrees to the main panel, if you want a good coat on those it wastes a lot of paint. I wanted to make sure that I had complete coverage on all edges. Yellow takes a lot of paint, maybe if I had got the top of the line variant, maybe I would not have used so much paint. I tried 50% over lap where it was possible. The basecoat uses just base and reducer 1:1. The primer use a 4:1:1 ratio of primer, activator and reducer. I just finished up the last of the panels that had to have some runs sanded out and the total amount of base was a quart and another 1/2 a pint. The harbor freight gun has a 1:4 needle I believe. I used about 40 psi at the gun, set with a mini regulator on the bottom of the gun. I am going to clear coat it with Southern Polyurathanes Universal Clear, will be going out to the workshop soon as I finish my coffee.:p


I'm still filling and wet-sanding. Are you saying you used 1 quart of yellow plus 1 quart of reducer and that wasn't enough? How many coats of yellow did you apply and how much overlap did you use between spray passes? The paint I'm using (PPG candy-apple red) wants a 90% overlap for the gold base and the red transparent paints and now I'm thinking that I need some more of those colors before I even begin.

Which paints did you buy?
 

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The cost of automotive paint is astonishing , even the cheapest paints . By the time you add it all up paying a body shop $1,200 to do a Burgman seams cheap . Some of these custom show paints run upwards of $20,000 a gallon .

TheReaper!
 

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Actually using a quart and a half to cover the bike isn't too bad. I've painted a few bikes using the purple HF HVLP gun and while its pretty frugal with the paint I've always had enough to do with the paint kit I got from Dirtbike Don on Ebay. Paintnig yellow because of it natural transparency requires many coats ( I learned that in my painting of R/C models). Also remember guys that there is a lot of surface area in the tupperware for a Burgman. Loadtoad the panels are looking great, when I get ambitious enough I'll paint up my 09 650, really don't like the black. To hard to see and to keep clean!

Greg
 

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Interested to see it once you finish. Yellow should stick out better. Black might look cool but it blends into the background.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I have finished the painting, sanding, buffing and am now putting the bike back together, I wished I had written down the order I tore the bike apart! The mirror's and rear fender are on. The yellow and the black look terrific together, I will have pics when I have it back together. I was quoted $800 to paint the bike, that's me bringing in all the parts to the paint shop. The guy is a top flight painter but I couldn't justify that much money. I'm afraid to add up what it did cost me in materials, at least $300, maybe more.
 

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Yellow! My all-time favourite colour - and don't get me talking about pretty women in gorgeous yellow dresses.....
 

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Too bad your paint guy's in Tennessee. Considering how much work I'll have into this paint job (and the lost opportunities to ride in some great spring weather), I'd ---HAPPILY--- pay $800. Yep, I'm already over $350 into paint (PPG Deltron), primer, clearcoat, reducer, activator, quick-change cup system for HVLP, filler, sandpaper and misc supplies. Probably looking at another $200 for another quart of gold base and red topcoat after what you say about coverage. Oh well, I'm learning a lot.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
But look at all the stuff you will have for the next job!


Too bad your paint guy's in Tennessee. Considering how much work I'll have into this paint job (and the lost opportunities to ride in some great spring weather), I'd ---HAPPILY--- pay $800. Yep, I'm already over $350 into paint (PPG Deltron), primer, clearcoat, reducer, activator, quick-change cup system for HVLP, filler, sandpaper and misc supplies. Probably looking at another $200 for another quart of gold base and red topcoat after what you say about coverage. Oh well, I'm learning a lot.
 

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Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
I'm making a little progress. Learned a hard lesson today, couple of them. When I put the leg shields on, the upper flat portion that snaps into the floor board sticks out just a fraction of a inch. That flat portion was not painted and had black with scattered yellow on it. I had to pull the panels and pull out all the paint supplies and turn the panel over and paint just the edge. For those planning on painting, I suggest you paint all the edges first, then work on the main part of the panel, maybe even paint an inch of the reverse side to make sure no unpainted edges show. The other hard lesson is wear goggles, don't do like me and walk out into the driveway with the paint with a cup of thinner in it without the top screwed on and trip over something:mad: I did and the thinner splashed all the way up to my head and ran down my face on the right side. I managed to close my eyes pretty quick but the burning was intense, I ran over to the garden hose to irrigate my eyes, it was hot cause it was sitting out in the sun and burned my eye even more. I had my friend hold my upper eyelid open, I held on the lower one and irrigated my eye for a long time. Thankfully no permanent damage by my eyelid has a small chemical burn to it, like a bad sunburn.
 

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$800.00 is a GREAT price . Summer time body shops here in the Midwest are very slow , so if you shop a little you can get a better price . That said one of the guys in the Detroit Burgman crew told me they usually pay about $1,200 to get one painted .

TheReaper!
 

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Love your choice of color.
When you get that thing done, you had better
keep looking over your shoulder.....
Blackbeard really likes yellow.......:hello1:
 

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Discussion Starter #18 (Edited)
Everything has a least two coats, some parts maybe 3. I was very conservative on the wet sanding of the clear because of all the sharp edges and I was afraid I would go all the way thru. There was very little orange peel to begin with. This bike is a daily driver so I am decided to leave well enough alone and be done with it.

I used Southern Polyurathanes Universal Clear for the clear coat. Very happy with the results. I only used half of the quart I bought from them. Their ratio is 1/1 of clear and activator.


Looking good Loadtoad. How many coats of clear to you apply and did you color sand it yet?
 

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Gorgeous. Yep I know exactly the edge that you missed, it has about a 3/16" reveal. I'm trying to fill the damage on that edge on the left panel and sand it straight to match the mating surface on the footboard.

You're right about the painting supplies, I already have some ideas. The quick-change HVLP cup system (disposable cups, $2 each) is fantastic, definitely worth the $30 or whatever to buy the adapter.
 
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