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Discussion Starter #1
Since the 400 Owners manual is a little vague I have a few questions
maybe you guys can help me with.
1. Do you ck the oil with it on the center stand or just hold the bike up when you ck it?

2. Is the hydralic lift on the seat adj.?

3. How many clicks will the preload adj. for the rear shock go? I went 19 clockwise and there didn't seem to be any end in sight.

4. The manual talks about changin the oil ect. but does not say anything about the final gear oil (what to use, how to change ect.) and is that the only two places ( outside of regular grease certs) that we need to worry about?
 

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swstiles said:
1. Do you ck the oil with it on the center stand or just hold the bike up when you ck it?
Centerstand

swstiles said:
2. Is the hydralic lift on the seat adj.?
Nope. You can replace it with a stiffer strut if needed.

swstiles said:
3. How many clicks will the preload adj. for the rear shock go? I went 19 clockwise and there didn't seem to be any end in sight.
If memory serves me correctly, 34

swstiles said:
4. The manual talks about changin the oil ect. but does not say anything about the final gear oil (what to use, how to change ect.) and is that the only two places ( outside of regular grease certs) that we need to worry about?
The manual is incorrect on the type of oil. See:

http://burgmanusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=1434
 

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SW: with it on the centerstand it will read about 2 or 3/16 inch below full unless you put a block under the front wheel. Note where the level is after you've changed the oil, without a block.

Book calls for 10-40 in motor and gear box, from -4 to above 104F. If I lived in extremely cold climate and intended to ride, I'd use 5-30, or 0-30.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
billmeek said:
swstiles said:
4. The manual talks about changin the oil ect. but does not say anything about the final gear oil (what to use, how to change ect.) and is that the only two places ( outside of regular grease certs) that we need to worry about?
The manual is incorrect on the type of oil. See:

http://burgmanusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=1434
So we use the same oil for the final gear oil as we do for the engine, correct ?
 

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Correct. Both the engine and the final drive should be using 10W-40.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks

billmeek said:
Correct. Both the engine and the final drive should be using 10W-40.
Thanks Bill, I 'm learning something new every day.
 

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ted clement said:
SW: with it on the centerstand it will read about 2 or 3/16 inch below full unless you put a block under the front wheel. Note where the level is after you've changed the oil, without a block.

Book calls for 10-40 in motor and gear box, from -4 to above 104F. If I lived in extremely cold climate and intended to ride, I'd use 5-30, or 0-30.

Thats a good point Ted, I always check mine with the bike on the ground with side stand. I get ready and then haul it to vertical using the grab rail/givi rack(still with stand ready) and dip the oil and then let it onto the stand.

I suppose with the lardy coming that will not be an option and I will need to be more scientific and do it on the centrestand.

Now do I put a block under front wheel that is one half of the distance between floor and back wheel OR do I need to make allowance that when the bike is on its wheels the attitude is biased one way or t'other? :scratch:
 

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Norman, if you would change the oil in the 400 once in awhile, then check it on the centerstand (without a block), you'd see where the full mark should be.....being an engineer and all! :lol: Otherwise, block it till the rear wheel touches. :roll: :roll:

And with the LARDY...perhaps you need to begin practicing standing on your head to see the sight glass? :p

And what kind of candyarse has his new scoot DELIVERED to his door so his tush doesn't get cold? Or puts on his elect socks, pants, jacket & gloves when its a mere 26F! :shaking:
 

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ted clement said:
Norman, if you would change the oil in the 400 once in awhile, then check it on the centerstand (without a block), you'd see where the full mark should be.....being an engineer and all! :lol: Otherwise, block it till the rear wheel touches. :roll: :roll:

And with the LARDY...perhaps you need to begin practicing standing on your head to see the sight glass? :p

And what kind of candyarse has his new scoot DELIVERED to his door so his tush doesn't get cold? Or puts on his elect socks, pants, jacket & gloves when its a mere 26F! :shaking:
Hi Ted

I don't mind being a target at all - honestly. :) :lol:

I just want to follow up on a couple of points that you made above.

If you block the front wheel up until the rear wheel touches the deck - is that the normal attitude - surely - its nose high - so your oil level will be inaccurate. I would have thought at the very least it would be half the distance the front wheel is off the deck and then chock with a block that size under the rear wheel. Even then that assumes this emulates the weight on the suspension posture - and assumptions are just that!

Okay - I'm doing it now (while typing). :lol:

I'm working now so time slots not so easily figured, so even if I had the electric kit you guys had I could not do it. Even then, it ain't the out and out cold its the ice/snow problem North of the border that would make it a no no. :cry:

However, you guys have given me an idea.............see my separate post.
 

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ted clement said:
And with the LARDY...perhaps you need to begin practicing standing on your head to see the sight glass? :p
Ted,

Much as I love my 650, I have to agree that they put that sight glass in an awful place. It is the least convenient bike that I've ever owned when it comes to checking the oil level. I have to get down on my hands and knees to see it.
 

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Paul, thats why I'm so concerned about Norman; he may not be able to get back up. :p
 

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:laughing3:
 
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