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Discussion Starter #1
Overheating issue…

I (believe) I may had the issue since I bought the bike a few months ago, a little concerned that the bike is potentially overheating and this may not help the NEW CVT belt that has been recently fitted !

Really want to fix this as I bought the bike to go touring and not confident that I’m not going to have an issue if riding all day !

The FAN cuts in alot and very early, when riding with a buddy with a similar age and mileage his doesn’t do the same.

When on a decent ride and stood in traffic, temp gauge goes above three bars, drops back when moving again, concerned about this in case I was to be stood for a long period !

I have been losing coolant, when I refill via the expansion tank , have seen it dumped after a decent run , it “appears” that the coolant is coming out of the expansion tank overflow hose, looks like pressure has to pop the plug for it to get to the overflow hose ?

After a decent run, I hear the fan running, three bars and then fan cuts out, but I can NOW hear the coolant boiling in the radiator, which obviously is not what should be happening !

Question… can the coolant be refilled / topped up via the expansion tank ?

I believe my cheapest, simplest and quickest option is to drain, flush and fill the radiator with new coolant …

are there any other “SIMPLE” things I can do to check or try to resolve, as well as or after the above has been undertaken ?

thanks as always for the great support.

Steve
 

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I would start by performing a coolant change, very easy to do, you can check my burgman center if you want to do it yourself.

If the problem still persists after the coolant change, you can check the thermostat to make sure that it is functioning properly.

If the fan is coming on and off that's a good indication that it is working properly.

You should also check the coolant hoses to make sure that there is no obstruction in any of them.

all the best...
 

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Is the radiator cap fitted properly? Is the spring in the radiator cap damaged or weakened? Suggest changing the cap for a new one. While not Burgie specific, I had very similar symptoms on my Daihatsu Charade car and a new cap fixed it.

Realised the weak spring in the cap was not allowing pressure to build in the radiator to lower the temperature and permitted coolant blow by into the header tank, accompanied by 'squirty' noises from time to time as the coolant escaped past the weak cap and out into the header tank which, like yours, overflowed from time to time, esp. after a good run.
Also agree it's time to check cooling system thoroughly and change coolant as suggested by LeDude.
Interested to hear your results.
Cheers..herdygerdy :)
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Well I like your thinking Herdygerdy

- does anyone know where to source pieces and parts in the UK ?
- is there a way of finding a part number for the radiator cap - it's not itemised on LeDude's sites microfiches ?

Am I missing something ? I can understand that the system could "somehow" over pressurise and push air / liquid through the radiator cap and through the inlet hose and then push the plug out of the top of the reserve tank and force liquid out of the reserve tank overflow, which I believe is whats happening and is where the liquid is leaving the system - but if performing correctly how does the reserve tank feed the cooling system via the inlet hose ? maybe I should read the service manual to understand better ;)
 

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model28a that's brilliant - thank you :)

I've managed to find the part number for the rad cap 17730-08J00 via the following link that was posted about the water pump seals failing - which is worrying ! although it says if they were to fail it's usually very quick and I've had this problem for a while now - I think !

http://www.partshark.com/fiche_section_detail.asp?section=704374&category=Scooters&make=SUZUKI&year=2008&fveh=18996

$35 seem's a bit steep just for a rad cap - WOW - hope a rad flush and refill fixes it !
 

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model28a that's brilliant - thank you :)

I've managed to find the part number for the rad cap 17730-08J00 via the following link that was posted about the water pump seals failing - which is worrying ! although it says if they were to fail it's usually very quick and I've had this problem for a while now - I think !

http://www.partshark.com/fiche_section_detail.asp?section=704374&category=Scooters&make=SUZUKI&year=2008&fveh=18996

$35 seem's a bit steep just for a rad cap - WOW - hope a rad flush and refill fixes it !
Glad to help. $35 seems more than a bit steep. It seems like rape to me.
 

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model28a that's brilliant - thank you :)

I've managed to find the part number for the rad cap 17730-08J00 via the following link that was posted about the water pump seals failing - which is worrying ! although it says if they were to fail it's usually very quick and I've had this problem for a while now - I think !

http://www.partshark.com/fiche_section_detail.asp?section=704374&category=Scooters&make=SUZUKI&year=2008&fveh=18996

$35 seem's a bit steep just for a rad cap - WOW - hope a rad flush and refill fixes it !
It's pretty much a small Asian style automotive radiator cap (1.1 bar/13lbs). A Hyundai one part # 25330-3K000 for $11.02 list should do the trick or a Stant # 10233.
 

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Well I like your thinking Herdygerdy



Am I missing something ? I can understand that the system could "somehow" over pressurise and push air / liquid through the radiator cap and through the inlet hose and then push the plug out of the top of the reserve tank and force liquid out of the reserve tank overflow, which I believe is whats happening and is where the liquid is leaving the system - but if performing correctly how does the reserve tank feed the cooling system via the inlet hose ? maybe I should read the service manual to understand better ;)
If you take the rad cap off the rad should be full, the expansion tank should be up to the full mark, as the engine warms up the coolant expands by about 10% and this is forced passed the rad pressure cap and into the expansion tank, as the engine cools the coolant goes back to it's org volume and the anti vacuum valve opens and allows coolant to be sucked back from the expansion tank into the rad so keeping it topped right up, I know it's really pushed back by atmospheric pressure but sucked is easier to understand.
I had a car in that had a stuck anti vac valve on the rad cap I happened to
touch the rad header tank and it was instantly crushed by atmospheric pressure dam near had my fingers off.
 

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If you take the rad cap off the rad should be full, the expansion tank should be up to the full mark, as the engine warms up the coolant expands by about 10% and this is forced passed the rad pressure cap and into the expansion tank, as the engine cools the coolant goes back to it's org volume and the anti vacuum valve opens and allows coolant to be sucked back from the expansion tank into the rad so keeping it topped right up, I know it's really pushed back by atmospheric pressure but sucked is easier to understand.
I had a car in that had a stuck anti vac valve on the rad cap I happened to
touch the rad header tank and it was instantly crushed by atmospheric pressure dam near had my fingers off.
Yup. The radiator cap when installed has two one way valves and a seal at the top. The first valve is the spring loaded one that's what you feel when you tighten the cap. That is what the pressure rating on the cap is for (1.1 bar roughly 13 psi). The other is what appears to be a little silver cap in the middle (looking at it upside down).

Once the pressure in the cooling system exceeds 1.1 bar the spring on the cap pushes back releasing the pressure until it drops below that. The little one is sealed when the system pressure is higher than the outside and opens when the pressure is lower inside the system compared to the outside.

On the rubber stopper plug for the reservoir there are a couple of grooves so air/coolant can flow in/out without sucking or blowing the stopper out.
 
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