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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I’m about to leave on a trip and I need to charge a large battery as I ride each day.

To do this I will use a Bestek Power inverter plugged into the output terminal, and in turn plug the battery into the Bestek.

Printed on the power inverter is “ Input 12V DC 28.5A”

The input specs on the battery are DC 12V 2 A (this will charge off the inverter with supplied wall wart)

Am I looking for any trouble here?

Link to power inverter

Link to battery
 

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gotta ask the stupid question (swmbo says I'm good at that :mad: ) the inverter has ac output, the battery needs dc input, to charge, am I readin somethin wrong? (swmbo says I'm good at that tooo, I tole her she don't know nothin bout inputtin and outputtin🤕 won't be doin that again)

also, input to inverter is kinda low amps wise, and may result in a little heat problem as they have fans to cool their innards, insufficient power in might not get you enough power to run the fan and put out clean ac voltage too
 

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Like Mikey said, Why would put an ac inverter in front of dc input supply? Also note, the battery supply you linked is designed for 15 volt input from solar panels. Maybe just connect the battery supply to your bike’s fused outlet?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
gotta ask the stupid question (swmbo says I'm good at that :mad: ) the inverter has ac output, the battery needs dc input, to charge, am I readin somethin wrong? (swmbo says I'm good at that tooo, I tole her she don't know nothin bout inputtin and outputtin🤕 won't be doin that again)

also, input to inverter is kinda low amps wise, and may result in a little heat problem as they have fans to cool their innards, insufficient power in might not get you enough power to run the fan and put out clean ac voltage too
The battery comes with an AC adaptor to plug it into the wall — you know — a wall wart. I don’t have a way to plug it into the cigarette lighter directly. Hence the power inverter in between.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)
Like Mikey said, Why would put an ac inverter in front of dc input supply? Also note, the battery supply you linked is designed for 15 volt input from solar panels. Maybe just connect the battery supply to your bike’s fused outlet?
The battery comes with an AC adaptor to plug it into the wall — you know — a wall wart. I don’t have a way to plug it into the cigarette lighter directly. Hence the power inverter in between.
 

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My dad used to use a 12V gel-cell battery to start his model airplanes. I made a 12V plug in the back of his car. After flying he would plug the battery directly into the car's 12V system.
It worked great! He never removed the battery from the car other than when he went flying. The battery was always charged. Unlike Li-ion or other exotic chemistry batteries a lead-acid battery is pretty simple to charge. As long as the inrush current is not to great just connect it directly to the bikes 12V system. You could parallel it with the bikes own battery. If you did this you wouldn't have to worry about the fuse, but the inrush when connecting a dead (or low) battery could cause problems. You would need a resistor to limit the inrush current.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Ok, the reason I am asking about damage to the bike‘s wiring is this:

Last fall I went on a camping trip and used the Accessory Output > Power Inverter > Battery AC adaptor > Battery combo to charge.

It worked fine. However-

After my return and a couple of day rides later I went out one morning to discover my starter switch wouldn’t engage. I took it to the shop and we ended up replacing the switch assembly on the handlebar as it had “burned out”. I don‘t know why, I didn’t get details.

And even later a secondary accessory output installed by the previous owner (through the dash, tapped into the original) burned out. When I opened up the dash to replace it with a dual USB assembly I saw the wires had melted. The new USB assembly works fine.

I suspect the reason the aftermarket accessory output burned out was due to an ALDI air compressor which I was using That got so hot the plastic on the 12v plug melted.

This is likely unrelated to me using the bike to charge the battery on the trip, but the timing of those events has me worried as this camping trip is even longer with an additional day of charging.
 

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Ok, the reason I am asking about damage to the bike‘s wiring is this:

Last fall I went on a camping trip and used the Accessory Output > Power Inverter > Battery AC adaptor > Battery combo to charge.

It worked fine. However-

After my return and a couple of day rides later I went out one morning to discover my starter switch wouldn’t engage. I took it to the shop and we ended up replacing the switch assembly on the handlebar as it had “burned out”. I don‘t know why, I didn’t get details.

And even later a secondary accessory output installed by the previous owner (through the dash, tapped into the original) burned out. When I opened up the dash to replace it with a dual USB assembly I saw the wires had melted. The new USB assembly works fine.

I suspect the reason the aftermarket accessory output burned out was due to an ALDI air compressor which I was using That got so hot the plastic on the 12v plug melted.

This is likely unrelated to me using the bike to charge the battery on the trip, but the timing of those events has me worried as this camping trip is even longer with an additional day of charging.
Yeah, that's unrelated. 🤔
 

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I was gonna say the bike's wiring is probably safe since it is fused, but someone else has done some work on it and obviously not fused it since it melted stuff, , so again short answer is YES, hook up to the battery with a fuse in line and don't use it while the bike isn't running so it don't kill the bike battery, and don't use a boat load of other stuff at the same time and overload the bike's generating capacity and burn out a rectifier and the BIKE "should" be okay
 

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You might want to verify the fuse ratings of your fuses, to make sure a higher rated fuse didn’t make it’s way into a lower capacity circuit.
When you get your new portable battery wired up, pull the fuse you identify as the source power while the new unit is energized, and confirm you have identified the correct fuse, and that the power goes out to the new supply,with the fuse removed
 

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My dad used to use a 12V gel-cell battery to start his model airplanes. I made a 12V plug in the back of his car. After flying he would plug the battery directly into the car's 12V system.
It worked great! He never removed the battery from the car other than when he went flying. The battery was always charged. Unlike Li-ion or other exotic chemistry batteries a lead-acid battery is pretty simple to charge. As long as the inrush current is not to great just connect it directly to the bikes 12V system. You could parallel it with the bikes own battery. If you did this you wouldn't have to worry about the fuse, but the inrush when connecting a dead (or low) battery could cause problems. You would need a resistor to limit the inrush current.
Would that not stress the bike's charging system?
 

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If its a 12V battery I'd just make a jumper cable from the bike battery and make a holder under the seat.

No loss in inverting 12V DC to 110v AC and then back to 12V DC.
 

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I’m about to leave on a trip and I need to charge a large battery as I ride each day.

To do this I will use a Bestek Power inverter plugged into the output terminal, and in turn plug the battery into the Bestek.

Printed on the power inverter is “ Input 12V DC 28.5A”

The input specs on the battery are DC 12V 2 A (this will charge off the inverter with supplied wall wart)

Am I looking for any trouble here?

Link to power inverter

Link to battery
Stop the presses! Did I miss something (not to echo @mikeyMarine)? Everyone is talking about a lead acid battery. The amazon link you gave shows a power pack with a Lithium polymer/ion battery. Charging these things take different chargers that will equalize all the cells' voltage ensuring a full charge. Yes, you can replace a lead acid battery in a bike with LI batts like a Shorai or other brand, and yes, you can charge them with good old battery tenders if they don't have a sulfate cycle, but I am not sure if you can connect the Portable Power Bank to your bike's battery (obviously in parallel, absolutely not in series) and drive merrily on your way.

Any conversion of electricity operates at less than 100% efficiency. Were you to do as you originally proposed, you are converting the bike's 12v to 120v with the Bestek, then using the power pack's own charger to take that 120 back to 12v. You will be wasting a lot of the available juice from your bike this way. OK, I think enough of the other guys have dissuaded you from this charging mode.

The problem I see is twofold. First, we are depending on amazon's usually ludicrous descriptions (yes, I'm biased because amazon has not provided sufficient info about things I want to buy) and second, their description says "Recharge the power bank faster than ever with the 15V/2A DC input, only need 6-7 hours". Why is this a problem? My Suzi (not a Burgman) has never reached 15 volts at any time, and I have a digital voltmeter running right off the battery. Second, at a 2 amp input - what you can get from some USB outlets - it says 6 to 7 hours. Are you going to be riding that much every day you need to charge the battery? 15 volts @ 2 amps is 30 watts, and your alternator almost certainly has sufficient capacity to provide that, but NOT at 15 volts, and THAT might be the real problem.

BTW, at 12v. nominal you will be drawing 2.5 amps, (30 watts) so a 10 amp fuse (to protect the wiring) would be fine. But again, I don't know if your bike's voltage is sufficient to charge this Power Pack.

What I would do is scour the internet for info about various power packs. Everyone makes them. Find one you can charge from a car's cigarette lighter. I don't know what your Burgman has in the way of power outlets - a powerlet? cig lighter socket? If a power pack is advertised as being able to be charged from a car/bike's electrical system, then you are good to go. Adapters to go from cig to powerlet to SAE are widely available.

One more thing. Never heard of a wall wart. Wall outlet, yes. Plug thing, yes.
 

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I’m about to leave on a trip and I need to charge a large battery as I ride each day.

To do this I will use a Bestek Power inverter plugged into the output terminal, and in turn plug the battery into the Bestek.

Printed on the power inverter is “ Input 12V DC 28.5A”

The input specs on the battery are DC 12V 2 A (this will charge off the inverter with supplied wall wart)

Am I looking for any trouble here?

Link to power inverter

Link to battery
Power Inverter has a 28.5 input current, 12v power socket has fuse #5 is only 15 amps. Not near enough current to operate inverter. Seems second power socket installed to power inverter without a fuse and melted wires from to much current. I don't see why you don't charge the battery directly from the installed power socket.
 
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