Oldest 650 still running in U.S.A.?
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Build date on the bike? It's on the tag riveted to the lower front box in the step through area.
I didn't buy it new.11 years + and 10k miles???!!! whatcha been doing - pedalling it
Good on you keeping it rolling all these years.
I bought it in 2009 with 2600 miles on it.
An old man had bought it and apparently decided that he didn't want a bike to be his last hurrah, after all.
He had kept it inside and it was like new.
I changed the wheel bearings to premium SKF units, installed one of Milek's primary spline adapters, change the fluids, the occasional tire,.. cut the windshield down, put a Corbin long seat on it, and have been riding it ever since.
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Maybe but highjacking Smitty_56's thread doesn't help.
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In November 2003 I bought my 650 new. The build date is the same as yours 2/03. I rode it for a few years and stopped when I heard a noise that I didn't recognize (approx 21,000 miles) , it was stored for a few, then I decided to start riding it again despite the noise until the CVT splines stripped out (26,228 miles), it sat again for a few years until I rebuilt the CVT and upgraded to the Polish Adapter. I was riding it again until just recently (27,373 miles) when I heard bearing noise from the CVT and pulled it all apart again. My fault on damaging a hybrid ceramic bearing I was trying out when I installed it.
Decided I didn't want to pull it all apart again so I replaced all the bearings with new factory parts and the belt since looking it over this time there were a few links (3) with very small pieces missing plus I happened to have a brand new belt I bought a few years ago. I am now just waiting on a right hand seal for the engine primary gear where the CVT bolts up. It is leaking a little bit of oil most likely damaged when originally the primary splines stripped out and some of that ground metal must have damaged it. With any luck I will get the seal tomorrow and put the bike back together Saturday to ride on Sunday, I can't wait.
Decided I didn't want to pull it all apart again so I replaced all the bearings with new factory parts and the belt since looking it over this time there were a few links (3) with very small pieces missing plus I happened to have a brand new belt I bought a few years ago. I am now just waiting on a right hand seal for the engine primary gear where the CVT bolts up. It is leaking a little bit of oil most likely damaged when originally the primary splines stripped out and some of that ground metal must have damaged it. With any luck I will get the seal tomorrow and put the bike back together Saturday to ride on Sunday, I can't wait.
Oh well,...there goes my fantasy about them being extra careful building the early in the year models.
Hate to hear about your second set of problems with the primary shaft bearing, but I believe I would have gone with a double sealed SKF bearing instead of going back to the factory parts.
I'm probably stating to sound redundant, but their electric motor grade bearings are supposed to be pretty good stuff.
I can't say for sure that they have a unit that is dimensionally identical to the primary shaft bearing, but I wouldn't be surprised.
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In the automotive world by 2/03 it would be considered a mid year production model since an '03 model would have started production in 9/01. I'm pretty sure 2/03 still wouldn't be an early model since those were known to have clutch failures that I believe Suzuki recalled to replace here in the US. I bought a '03 parts bike from as local guy who I am pretty sure said he had to have the clutch replaced on it for the problem though I am not sure of the exact production date on that bike since he sold off parts before I bought it and that build tag I do not have.
The Suzuki bearings are made by Koyo. I had some hybrid (stainless/ceramic) bearings made and had a problem with the press at work where it got cocked going in and I had to press it back out by the inner race undoubtedly stressing the ceramic balls and damaging them, again my fault. I'm done playing with the ceramics for now.
I realize it was an expensive bearing, but "everybody" knows that applying pressure through the balls of a bearing is a sure way to kill both the balls and the races.
In the Burgman 650 CVT, which takes hours to replace, the only rational thing to do would have been to ditch the cocked bearing and get a new one.
OTOH, I have made similar mistakes, where part of me knew I should back-track and check up, but the urge to finish up was stronger.
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At least I can only beat myself up until I pass out, lol. A steel bearing would have been less likely to damage. Worse yet I was trying to short cut on pulling the CVT out this time and broke a (fortunately not important) piece of plastic off under the helmet box then decided that it's not really that much more work to just do it right since I was by myself. There was a least a few points at which the whole thing could have fallen over. No more trying to short cut and risk damaging it!
Even more fun has been trying to get the right hand seal for the engine driven gear where the CVT bolts up. 1 warehouse in PA and 3 dealers (Wash, Mich, and Ark). On Monday called Wash, not open. Called Mich and ordered having them ship 2-day. Part arrives on Wednesday and is not in packaging but with a part # taped to it. Wrong part sent is actually the secondary output seal in the CVT. Called back and got a refund with no need to send it back. Called Wash and their count is off they don't have it. Called Ark, verified in factory packaging, and had them ship 2-day but it didn't make it out Wed so I now have to wait until Monday, ugh. I also went to my local dealer and ordered hopefully that one from the PA warehouse which won't be until sometime next week unless they back order it.
Can you pls list the part# for the seal?
Is it 09283-44013 44X62X7 oil seal?
http://www.boltonmotorcycles.com/find/part/M.206009
44X62X7 is a standard size, available from Timken, but they only have one version.
Is it 09283-44013 44X62X7 oil seal?
http://www.boltonmotorcycles.com/find/part/M.206009
Interesting that although the RH and LH seal have the same dimensions 44X62X7 they have different part# ending with 12 and 13.
44X62X7 is a standard size, available from Timken, but they only have one version.
Didn't someone post a pic of a 2006 with 179,000 miles?
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