I didn't buy it new.11 years + and 10k miles???!!! whatcha been doing - pedalling it
Good on you keeping it rolling all these years.
I think there were threads on that.I'm not so interested in the oldest but I would be interested in the highest miles total or the highest miles without a major failure.
Yes, but one was in 2009, another in 2011 and the CVT reliability tracker information is old and not relevant to the highest mileage.
Oh well,...there goes my fantasy about them being extra careful building the early in the year models.In November 2003 I bought my 650 new. The build date is the same as yours 2/03.
it was stored for a few, then I decided to start riding it again despite the noise until the CVT splines stripped out (26,228 miles),
In the automotive world by 2/03 it would be considered a mid year production model since an '03 model would have started production in 9/01. I'm pretty sure 2/03 still wouldn't be an early model since those were known to have clutch failures that I believe Suzuki recalled to replace here in the US. I bought a '03 parts bike from as local guy who I am pretty sure said he had to have the clutch replaced on it for the problem though I am not sure of the exact production date on that bike since he sold off parts before I bought it and that build tag I do not have.Oh well,...there goes my fantasy about them being extra careful building the early in the year models.
Hate to hear about your second set of problems with the primary shaft bearing, but I believe I would have gone with a double sealed SKF bearing instead of going back to the factory parts.
I'm probably stating to sound redundant, but their electric motor grade bearings are supposed to be pretty good stuff.
I can't say for sure that they have a unit that is dimensionally identical to the primary shaft bearing, but I wouldn't be surprised.
I realize it was an expensive bearing, but "everybody" knows that applying pressure through the balls of a bearing is a sure way to kill both the balls and the races.... I had some hybrid (stainless/ceramic) bearings made and had a problem with the press at work where it got cocked going in and I had to press it back out by the inner race :shock: undoubtedly stressing the ceramic balls and damaging them, again my fault. I'm done playing with the ceramics for now.
At least I can only beat myself up until I pass out, lol. A steel bearing would have been less likely to damage. Worse yet I was trying to short cut on pulling the CVT out this time and broke a (fortunately not important) piece of plastic off under the helmet box then decided that it's not really that much more work to just do it right since I was by myself. There was a least a few points at which the whole thing could have fallen over. No more trying to short cut and risk damaging it!I realize it was an expensive bearing, but "everybody" knows that applying pressure through the balls of a bearing is a sure way to kill both the balls and the races.
In the Burgman 650 CVT, which takes hours to replace, the only rational thing to do would have been to ditch the cocked bearing and get a new one.
OTOH, I have made similar mistakes, where part of me knew I should back-track and check up, but the urge to finish up was stronger.
Interesting that although the RH and LH seal have the same dimensions 44X62X7 they have different part# ending with 12 and 13.3 09283-44013 14 OIL SEAL, PRIMARY DRIVEN RH x 20.65
Standard HMS5 seals have a straight lip while
CRW1 seals are designed with SKF Wave lips to
provide improved pumping ability, regardless
of the direction of shaft rotation