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Discussion Starter #1
This is a simple basic question.. is there an easy way to see the oil level (on the 650) ? I have 3200 miles on my 2012.. and have no idea about my oil level & that scares the beejeebers out of me..

I have put it on the center stand, have laid on my belly (which is quite large) on the left side of the bike.. and squinted up and can barely see the oil level window.. can't really tell anything by it... wondering if a flashlight would help.. Just seems like a weird way to check the oil level.. Do I really have to be lying flat on the ground?
 

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what LeDude said - and yes, depending on where you are, a flashlight is a help.
 

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I don't lay on my belly it to see the sight glass either. As others have said i just kneel down on one knee. Unless I am in a well lighted area I use a flashlight or other light source. In my workshop I use the trouble light I keep hanging on a hook right beside where I park the bike.
 

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I have a mirror on a bendy stick......but I keep forgetting where it is and just bend down and have a look. :lol:
 

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IF the scooter has too much oil the window will be solid and no matter what you do you will not be able to see the oil at the proper level. So if you are down on your belly with a light and still cannot see the oil level, best double check if you got the proper amount of oil.

It is very easy to get too much oil.

It takes some getting used to what will work for you. It is not a piece of cake.

This is very true on the newer 400s. How long you wait, is there too much oil, the scooter is vertical and weather you use the center stand or side stand will make a difference too. I check mine when it is cold and using the side stand but put the scooter up right while on the right side. The sight window on the 400s are down on the right side.
 

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What I have found is that if the bike has just a slight bit too much oil in it the sight glass will look black as if it's totally empty or too full. If you get someone stout to help, you can tip the bike away from the kickstand and look at it. Even with 3K miles on the oil you will see a definite clear line showing where the oil level is and you should not have to get down on your belly to see it. I found early on that a flashlight just reflects off the sight glass and doesn't help at all. Check it in daylight.

Sometimes having too much oil is as bad as not enough so just go ahead and do an oil change and when pouring in the last bit check the sight glass. I always change the filter when I change the oil...it's a habit from years of doing oil changes and is cheap insurance.
 

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FWIW, this is what u r looking for in the sight glass/window.......a clear indication that the oil level is between the upper/lower marks when the scoot is level.



Uploaded with ImageShack.us
 

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Discussion Starter #9
djb383 said:
FWIW, this is what u r looking for in the sight glass/window.......a clear indication that the oil level is between the upper/lower marks when the scoot is level.



Uploaded with ImageShack.us
Great to know what I am looking at... VERY helpful...
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Perfect.. I was able to check it today & I knew what to look for .. I used a flashlight... I was just over the "L" level so I'll keep an eye on it..
 

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I have found that when the oil gets down toward the low mark, I get an intermittent "check oil level" light when leaning in hard left in turns. I try to keep mine at center of window and above. Mine usually gets to the lower level at about 3500 miles and is about due for an oil change. I may at that time go ahead and do the change but if I don't have the time, I will add about 1/2 qt which brings it back to the full mark and then change oil at 4-4500 miles. Works for me.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Ken said:
I have found that when the oil gets down toward the low mark, I get an intermittent "check oil level" light when leaning in hard left in turns. I try to keep mine at center of window and above. Mine usually gets to the lower level at about 3500 miles and is about due for an oil change. I may at that time go ahead and do the change but if I don't have the time, I will add about 1/2 qt which brings it back to the full mark and then change oil at 4-4500 miles. Works for me.
Yes.. I have 3300 miles now.. but it was changed just before 500 miles... so 4,000 is the next one "due".. but I will do it before then..
 

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The first few times it is hard to see. But I just did my 25th oil change on Burgmans. I do them myself. I like Sight glass's better than a dipstick. Problem with a sight glass is, if you over fill it with fresh oil, it looks like its empty.
 

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Buffalo said:
I don't lay on my belly it to see the sight glass either. As others have said i just kneel down on one knee. Unless I am in a well lighted area I use a flashlight or other light source. In my workshop I use the trouble light I keep hanging on a hook right beside where I park the bike.

On a related subject, what brand of oil and viscosity is recommended for South Florida. I can't believe my mechanic charged me about $15/quart. It was a synthetic oil but I don't remember what kind.
 

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Marv said:
On a related subject, what brand of oil and viscosity is recommended for South Florida. I can't believe my mechanic charged me about $15/quart. It was a synthetic oil but I don't remember what kind.
Marv, oil is a tough topic, you'll get 10,000 answers. Is Synthetic worth wile on a bike that is water cooled and changed at 3,000 miles, NO! You can get a Gallon of Rotella 5W40 Syn for about $19 but in Florida I'd want a 10W40 or 15W40 for summer time. You can buy Delo 400 LE Isosyn 15W40 for about $13 a gallon, while not true synthetic it is as good as good can be. I would run that oil in my moms car, no problem.
 

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choice of engine oil

Years ago Mobil 1 used to advertise "Good for 25,000 miles". I think that's a little optimistic but why does our manual say change at 3,400 miles? With modern engines and high quality oil one would think you could safely ride a lot further.
 

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Marv said:
.........On a related subject, what brand of oil and viscosity is recommended for South Florida. I can't believe my mechanic charged me about $15/quart. It was a synthetic oil but I don't remember what kind.
(it's called "profit margin" and his profit apparently is very high)

Here's what a fellow Floridian (Dr. A E Haas) has to say about motor oil.

http://www.supramania.com/aehaas/101.html

0W40, 5W40, 10W40, 15W40 and straight 40 are the same vis/weight at operating temp. The lower the 1st number, the faster/easier the oil will flow at below operating temp. Flow = lubrication.

I would think a motorcycle engine is turning substantially more rpm than a car motor most of the time.....higher rpm operation means more oil thrashing, thus more frequent changing of oil, than oil used in a lower rpm a car.
 

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[

0W40, 5W40, 10W40, 15W40 and straight 40 are the same vis/weight at operating temp. The lower the 1st number, the faster/easier the oil will flow at below operating temp. Flow = lubrication.

I would think a motorcycle engine is turning substantially more rpm than a car motor most of the time.....higher rpm operation means more oil thrashing, thus more frequent changing of oil, than oil used in a lower rpm a car.[/quote]


If the first number is better flow at start up where all the wear takes place why not just have the lower number. Do we even need the 30, 40 or even 50 weight oil? Why does Suzuki recommend 15W40 instead of 5W40. Shell makes a 5W40 oil that is synthetic at a very reasonable price.
Rotella T6 Synthetic
 

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Marv said:
[

0W40, 5W40, 10W40, 15W40 and straight 40 are the same vis/weight at operating temp. The lower the 1st number, the faster/easier the oil will flow at below operating temp. Flow = lubrication.
I would think a motorcycle engine is turning substantially more rpm than a car motor most of the time.....higher rpm operation means more oil thrashing, thus more frequent changing of oil, than oil used in a lower rpm a car.

If the first number is better flow at start up where all the wear takes place why not just have the lower number. Do we even need the 30, 40 or even 50 weight oil? Why does Suzuki recommend 15W40 instead of 5W40. Shell makes a 5W40 oil that is synthetic at a very reasonable price. I also believe the oil is not thrashing about on a motorcycle It's pressure lubricated.

In my High School days I owned a 1936 Chevy that was not pressure lubed. It had little teaspoon sized cups attached under the connecting rods to scoop the oil up and splash it where it was needed. Seems archaic by modern standards.
 

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Marv said:
If the first number is better flow at start up where all the wear takes place why not just have the lower number. Do we even need the 30, 40 or even 50 weight oil? Why does Suzuki recommend 15W40 instead of 5W40. Shell makes a 5W40 oil that is synthetic at a very reasonable price. I also believe the oil is not thrashing about on a motorcycle It's pressure lubricated.
Well the recommended oil depends on climate/temperature range. You don't want too thick of an oil when it's cold nor too thin when it's hot.
 
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