Being without an owners manual for the moment I wonder if anyone knows how often to change oil on the Burgman . Also, what is the recommended oil? Does the transmission oil have to be changed as well and what kind of oil does the tranny take?
oil changes
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For the 2003 650:
Oil Change: 600 mi- 4000 mi- 7500 mi- 11000 mi
(the manual says to change the filter every other oil change???? - this doesn't make sense to me and when I pointed it out the our dealer service manager, he thought it must be a misprint)
Trany Oil change: 600 - 7500 - 14500 (every other oil change
From the service manual: Engine Oil and Transmission oil for USA
"Suzuki recommends the use of Suzuki Performance 4 Motor Oil or an oil which is rated SF or SG under the API (American Petroleum Institute) Service Classification. The recommendation viscosity is SAE 10W-40. If an SAE 10W-40 is not available, select and alternative according to the following chart."
Final Gear Oil: "Use hypoid gear oil that meets the API service classification GL-t and is rated SAE #90. Use oil with rating of #80 is the motorcycle is operated where the ambient temp is below C or 32F
Hope this helps.
Oil Change: 600 mi- 4000 mi- 7500 mi- 11000 mi
(the manual says to change the filter every other oil change???? - this doesn't make sense to me and when I pointed it out the our dealer service manager, he thought it must be a misprint)
Trany Oil change: 600 - 7500 - 14500 (every other oil change
From the service manual: Engine Oil and Transmission oil for USA
"Suzuki recommends the use of Suzuki Performance 4 Motor Oil or an oil which is rated SF or SG under the API (American Petroleum Institute) Service Classification. The recommendation viscosity is SAE 10W-40. If an SAE 10W-40 is not available, select and alternative according to the following chart."
Final Gear Oil: "Use hypoid gear oil that meets the API service classification GL-t and is rated SAE #90. Use oil with rating of #80 is the motorcycle is operated where the ambient temp is below C or 32F
Hope this helps.
Bill Trammell
Active Member
Thank you very much for all of this helpful information. I rode to work this morning (28 degrees) and found this bike to be really perfect. I've owned two other scoots (SW and Atlantic) and this is no doubt the king of the maxiscoots.
I should have an owners manual in about a week and won't have to bother anyone with requests such as these. I really appeciate your help!
Active Member
Thank you very much for all of this helpful information. I rode to work this morning (28 degrees) and found this bike to be really perfect. I've owned two other scoots (SW and Atlantic) and this is no doubt the king of the maxiscoots.
I should have an owners manual in about a week and won't have to bother anyone with requests such as these. I really appeciate your help!
G
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When it is time for an oil change the display on the dash will light up. I don't have my manual at the moment but after the initial service it automatically comes on every 3500 miles if I remember correctly. The transmission and gear oil is every other oil change.
Covert,Covert said:
Are the warmup instructions for all bikes something like this...:
1) After starting keep rpm's below 2500.
2) 15 seconds after start, start riding.
3) Don't give it alot of gas or engine load until warm enough to run smooth.
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The transmission 10-40 oil for the 650 simply lubes the pully bearings, final gear
and transfer of heat to housing.
After 4 changes and 4,000 miles on my 650, the tranny oil that was dumped
was similar in color every time as graphite looking strands of oil along with
black color oil.
I question whether synthetic would ever work very well in the tranny of a 650.
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The AN400 engine and transmission oil is shared.
G
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Covert
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Thanks for the information! I tried to reset as you suggested...but no go. Perhaps I did it wrong. When you said "poke" the reset and the other one and then hold for 10 seconds, what did you mean? I pressed these two buttons before turning the machine on, then turned the ignition switich to on ( did not start the bike) and held the buttons down for 10 seconds.
If this is covered in the owners manual, I should have one next week. Thanks again for your reply
Super Poster
Thanks for the information! I tried to reset as you suggested...but no go. Perhaps I did it wrong. When you said "poke" the reset and the other one and then hold for 10 seconds, what did you mean? I pressed these two buttons before turning the machine on, then turned the ignition switich to on ( did not start the bike) and held the buttons down for 10 seconds.
If this is covered in the owners manual, I should have one next week. Thanks again for your reply
G
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92 Posts
Proper Warming
Most cars are best driven off almost immediately. Idling an engine to warm it is just about the worst thing you can do to it. At idle, the oil isn't spashed up into the cylinders enough to really lubricate. Add in cold oil and you are basically running the pistons without lubrication. I start my car, put on my seat belt and drive away. I don't floor it, ever, if I can help, but certainly not until the motor is warm.
I can't see that a motorcycle engine is that different. Even a dry sump engine needs the same regime, because cold oil doesn't spray like warm oil. (In a dry sump, the oil is sprayed into the cylinder by a pressure pump.) If you really have to floor it, it shouldn't be done until the oil is warmed to operating temperature. In the summer, 20 to 30C (70 - 85F), this normally takes about ten to fifteen km of medium driving above 60 km/hr (35 mph). In winter, below 0C (below 32F), this can take up to fifty km (30 miles) or more on very cold days. You will notice that this is much much longer than it takes the engine itself to come up to running tempurature.
While motorcycle engine oil probably warms faster than the average car, because there is less of it to warm up. There is usually only a cup full of oil in the engine itself, but a car has 5 litres (or a US gallon and a half) in the sump, a motorcycle only has about half that.
So don't depend on the temp gauge to tell you everything is warm. The oil is still warming up and not flowing as well as it will a few miles down the road.
Most cars are best driven off almost immediately. Idling an engine to warm it is just about the worst thing you can do to it. At idle, the oil isn't spashed up into the cylinders enough to really lubricate. Add in cold oil and you are basically running the pistons without lubrication. I start my car, put on my seat belt and drive away. I don't floor it, ever, if I can help, but certainly not until the motor is warm.
I can't see that a motorcycle engine is that different. Even a dry sump engine needs the same regime, because cold oil doesn't spray like warm oil. (In a dry sump, the oil is sprayed into the cylinder by a pressure pump.) If you really have to floor it, it shouldn't be done until the oil is warmed to operating temperature. In the summer, 20 to 30C (70 - 85F), this normally takes about ten to fifteen km of medium driving above 60 km/hr (35 mph). In winter, below 0C (below 32F), this can take up to fifty km (30 miles) or more on very cold days. You will notice that this is much much longer than it takes the engine itself to come up to running tempurature.
While motorcycle engine oil probably warms faster than the average car, because there is less of it to warm up. There is usually only a cup full of oil in the engine itself, but a car has 5 litres (or a US gallon and a half) in the sump, a motorcycle only has about half that.
So don't depend on the temp gauge to tell you everything is warm. The oil is still warming up and not flowing as well as it will a few miles down the road.
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Engine Warmup
My practice (with 1,200 miles and counting) is to let the engine warm at idle until 1 bar pops up, wait one minute, then take off gently. After 3 bars appear I ride normally. I plan to change the oil and filter at 1,300 miles, just to be on the safe side and to inspect the drained oil. This bike is terrific!
My practice (with 1,200 miles and counting) is to let the engine warm at idle until 1 bar pops up, wait one minute, then take off gently. After 3 bars appear I ride normally. I plan to change the oil and filter at 1,300 miles, just to be on the safe side and to inspect the drained oil. This bike is terrific!
warm-up
My dealer strongly advised me to wait, letting it idle until the first bar appeared, then it was okay to get on and ride.
I have stuck to that.
Any cautions regarding first service?
I'm planning to perform it myself. I have never done so, but I have the service manual, and it looks pretty straightforward.
David
My dealer strongly advised me to wait, letting it idle until the first bar appeared, then it was okay to get on and ride.
I have stuck to that.
Any cautions regarding first service?
I'm planning to perform it myself. I have never done so, but I have the service manual, and it looks pretty straightforward.
David
first service
This question probably falls into the category of "duh", but will the oil change icon appear at 600 miles?
Do I have to then reset it so that it will know it was done, and then it will automatically reset until the next-recommended interval?
David
This question probably falls into the category of "duh", but will the oil change icon appear at 600 miles?
Do I have to then reset it so that it will know it was done, and then it will automatically reset until the next-recommended interval?
David
Re: first service
The oil change indicator will pop-up at 600mi. The dealer will reset it for you and it will pop-up up again at the next scheduled oil change (4k mi). If you did the service yourself, you will have to reset it yourself by holding down both buttons for at least 2 sec.... by toggling the buttons (i don't know which is which) you can then it at your desired interval - this info is detailed in the owner's manual :lol:Darex said:
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