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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
OK - dumb question time. A friend and I were talking about my 650 and the fact I have a wet clutch. So no "special oils" should be used. Their question was this. What if you used an oil like "Slick 50" that supposedly puts a teflon coating on things. Sure it would mess up the clutch, but it could help the rest of the engine. Then just replace the clutch.
So is the clutch the only thing that something like this would hurt? Anyone replace a clutch to know what the cost would be for an experiment like this?
Not that it is someting I want to do, but it does have me thinking. My guess is you would swap out the oil and off you would go for a couple of miles till the clutch was gone. Or put it on a stand for a tank of gas. :lol:
 

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Jim, our thankless moderator from Wisconsin :wink: could tell you of his boo boo using the wrong oil and replacing the clutch :roll:

If I may be so blunt, Why screw with something that works? :thumbup:

Unless you have time and money and wrench skills, I'd leave it alone and ride it until it dies and then get another :D

JMHO...and worth what you are paying for it :wink:

Bill
 

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Thanks Bill - my thoughts exactly. This guy is a die hard Slick 50 person. Says he puts it in all of his cars and gets from 1 - 5 mpg better. I told him it would destroy the clutch. He said it might be worth it. I said if he wanted to buy me a clutch he "might" be able to try, but I wanted to find out what all HE would have to replace first.
 

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A complete set of clutch disc is not cheap. Not to hard to install. I helped Robin put a new set in her 07. Biggest issue was we had to rig up a special tool to compress the springs. I don,t remember what she said she paid for the parts but I know it was well over $100.
 

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The TEFLON flakes in Slick 50 are large enough that in the first pass thru the filter they get stopped. Do as you please but take care. I can see it in less than two weeks, a new topic "My 650 revs but does not move.... HELP". :roll: :?: :?: :?:

Go over to www.BobIsTheOilGuy.com and search the forums for SLICK 50. The most slick thing about SLICK 50 is how slick your money goes from your hand to theirs.

SNAKE OIL!!!
 

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Guess I'll 'weigh' in on this 'weighty' issue.

Slick 50, well, it's simply not made for wet-clutch motorcycles.

Some people can use oil additives and it hoses things up. Yet I've talked to others who use about any kind of oil (including mileage enhancing oils) with no trouble at all for their wet clutches. Is it worth the payoff? I used Slick 50 when it came out. Did I really see any improvement in fuel economy in my vehicle (my "oldzuzu" truck)? NO. I found I could get better fuel economy improvement by changing my driving habits. :thumbup:
 

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Slick say not to use it in engines with wet clutches now. Also, most Slick products do not contain PTFE. They use a much better system now that is able to avoid the earlier problems some owners experienced on some engines (only a few) linked with oil gallery blockages caused by a build up of the PTFE in inappropriate places reducing oil flow.

I used Slick 50 in the late 80's and 90's with great success in some of my Fords and the engines went on to cover 300,000 miles plus with no problems. I think it is a good product but the oil treatment is now largely sidelined by the use of modern Fully Synthetic oils that pretty much reduce engine wear to as close to zero as you can get without the use of any additives being put in by owners.
 

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My father regularly got cars in the 60's and 70's to do 200K miles on just regular oil changes (he drove a lot for his job) - he didn't need no "Steeeenkin' Sleeeeeek Feeeeeefty!"

When I was living in Hawaii in the late 80's, and working at Camp Smith, I had a friend (we were both pilots, he passed away about 3 yrs ago) I worked with, and he reported another friend (of his whom I was not acquainted with) who was flying his small single engine plane, which was utilizing slick 50; according to the report/store/anectdote (call it what you will), the plane lost all oil pressure but the pilot (his friend) was able to successfully keep the engine running (and not just feather (idle) the prop or kill the engine and glide) for almost 10 minutes while getting the plane emergency landed, without engine seize. True or not? I have no idea. I eventually saw the aircraft in question a few days later after its engine had been rebuilt and the mechanic also swore to the story and also said he found no engine damage. True or not? Again I have no idea.

:thumbup:
 

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QuantumRift said:
<<<SNIP>>>the plane lost all oil pressure but the pilot (his friend) ,BY SHEAR LUCK OR THE GRACE OF HIS GRANDMAKER, was able to successfully keep the engine running (and not just feather (idle) the prop or kill the engine and glide) for almost 10 minutes while getting the plane emergency landed, without engine seize. SPENT AN HOUR CLEANING HIS SHORTS!!!!

True or not? I have no idea. I eventually saw the aircraft in question a few days later after its engine had been rebuilt and the mechanic also swore to the story and also said he found no engine damage. True or not? Again I have no idea.

:thumbup:
:D

WOW!!! I thought the FAA had not approved Slick 50 for Aviation use but really I had not checked into it. I do know ARCO Graphite oil WAS, I ran it in my Suzuki GS750N, for about 200 miles till the clutch went away.

The clutch will most likely work fine with the Slick 50, TILL your 150 miles from home and your towing service is good for the first 80 miles.

Imagine that towing bill. :lol:
 

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Yes, I don't doubt for one minute that the pilot kept his engine going without any problems. I was witness to the original Slick 50 tests conducted here in the UK at Brands Hatch in the 80's. Two 3 litre V6 Fords were serviced with new oil, one was treated with Slick 50, the other not. Both were driven, and driven and driven at speed around the track. Then the oil was drained from both engines and the cars again just driven and driven, well...the one with Slick 50 in was! The car that was not treated seized fairly promptly after half a lap. The Slicked car just kept going for 8 laps to demonstrate how good it was. It could have gone on for many more laps I would think.Both engines were stripped and examined and the results published. The tests were officially observed by the AA and RAC motoring organisations. The non slicked engine was toast, but the Slicked engine showed no signs of bearing pick up anywhere in the engine. All tolerances were within limits. This is all documented somewhere and probably is on the internet. But that was in the days of PTFE. I have no idea how good the new stuff is.
 
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