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Hi All

My 06' 650 is do for an oil change and it is almost storage time for me living in New York City area.

Is it better to store the bike with new oil or when it comes out of storage for the 2013 season??

Thank you and Happy Holidays to All


David
 

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Hi cooldad, yep...best to store with nice clean oil in her if you can. It helps to not have any contaminants in the oil to cause corrosion over the winter lay up.
 

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Like most things to do with oil this is a debated topic.

Some say it is best to do it before you store the bike. The reasoning is it gets the bad stuff out so they don't sit in the crankcase all winter.

Others say it is better to do it in the spring before you ride. The reasoning is that bad stuff forms while the bike is sitting so you need to get it out before you ride.

Others take no chances and say to change it before you store the bike and again before you ride it.

Take your choice.

For me it's a none issue because I live where it is possible to ride year round and I do.
 

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Just to tag along with Craig's post, some will say to do it after because of bad stuff that forms in the oil. Logically, I can't think of how that could happen in any quantity that could do much to an engine...any worse than leaving the bike parked for a couple weeks, or months, in the summer.

Contaminants in the oil come as a by product of the combustion process. If the engine hasn't been run after changing the oil, how would they form?

I can ride all year long, but if I was in that situation, I'd go with changing the oil before putting the bike away for storage.

Chris
 

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According to the proponents of that train of though, moisture that forms because of the heating and cooling of the air where the bike if stored collects in the oil and forms acids. Will enough form to do harm, your guess is as good as mine.
 

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what is this "winter storage" you speak of? :D

im in alabama. we ride all year round. it only snows a few times a year here. and even then it doesnt stick.

gosh, just the thought of putting the bike away for a few months make me very sad.
 

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The formation of acids in the oil of an engine left to sit for several months or more is less of a problem that the condensation that forms on components left unprotected when the oil drains off of them while not running. The Burgman engines use a roller bearing crankshaft and connecting rod. The bearings and bearing surfaces can rust while not in use if they're not protected by a film of oil. Whether THAT occurs or not depends on the film strength of the oil used in the engine.

One way to protect these roller bearings in small aircraft engines placed in storage is to fill the crankcase with enough oil to submerge the roller bearings on the crank and con rod big end completely under oil. I used a inexpensive light weight anti-corrosion oil made specifically for engine storage but an inexpensive 20 wt. oil will do the same thing. The crank is rotated so the con rod pin(s) are level with or below the crankshaft journals and fill the crankcase with oil. When the engine is to be put back into service, drain the crankcase and store the oil for reuse at so later time.

The cylinder walls and piston rings are protected by spraying outboard engine fogging oil into the cylinder through the sparkplug hole turning the engine over a couple of times, repeating, and then replacing the sparkplug.
 

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DL-11 said:
The Burgman engines use a roller bearing crankshaft and connecting rod. The bearings and bearing surfaces can rust while not in use if they're not protected by a film of oil.
A minor correction. While the 400 uses roller bearings, a 650 like the OP has used plain bearings on the crank and conrods.
 

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cmn1771 said:
what is this "winter storage" you speak of? :D

im in alabama. we ride all year round. it only snows a few times a year here. and even then it doesnt stick.

gosh, just the thought of putting the bike away for a few months make me very sad.

What is this "snow" you speak of? :D

You Northerners in Alabama seem to have more issues than we do down in Florida... :lol: :lol: :lol:
 

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Living in Michigan where winters can be more lengthy, prior to climate change anyway, I've made it a habit of fresh less expensive oil, not cheap crap in the bikes just before snow flies. Then on bikes I'm not taking out on roads with salt and etc I run them for 35 or 40 minutes to get good and hot every three weeks. The same for the one that i ride if the roads are clean and not sloppy salty. Then in the spring it's back to Ams Oil and on through the summer. I realize opinions vary greatly on this subject, Its a little bit more farting around perhaps, but its the dance I do around here.
 

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"Then on bikes I'm not taking out on roads with salt and etc I run them for 35 or 40 minutes to get good and hot every three weeks."
From my experience, unless you can get the engine's oil over 200º F AND keep it there long enough for accumulated moisture to be boiled off, you'd probably be better off just letting the bikes sit silent until you're ready to ride them and then taking them out for a long hard ride, under load, to get everything hot enough that it will do some good. The fact that the cooling system gets warm doesn't mean the oil gets HOT, and that's really more important than water temp. Oil doesn't get very warm in an engine that's sitting and idling under no load. Repeatedly heating and cooling the crank case without getting, and keeping, the oil thoroughly HOT will actually cause more condensation to accumulate inside the engine than would have if the engine weren't run at all during the cold weather.

Remove the spark plugs in the fall and spray some outboard motor fogging oil into each cylinder to coat the cylinder walls and valve seats, turn the engine over a time or 2, repeat briefly, replace the plugs and cover the bike for the winter.
 
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