I have a 2003 Burgman 650, and after it sitting over winter, I put a charger on it and went to start it up. It cranks, but no fire. I have spark, but no fuel pressure. The fuel pump is new. I do know that I need a battery, as it does not hold a charge. I did all of this while it was on the charger. Can a weak battery like this cause not enough juice to flow to the fuel pump relay to close it and send power to the fuel pump?
No fuel pressure
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Can you JUMP START the bike?
It's the only way to start it unless you pull the battery and get it tested, and if bad, replace it.
It's the only way to start it unless you pull the battery and get it tested, and if bad, replace it.
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Actually jump it from a known good car battery. I never have had much luck with 'engine start' chargers.
ShouterVW said:
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It's possible that the battery will fix it but if it had enough current to crank the engine over I would not bet on it. That should have been enough to pressure up the fuel pump. You might want to look to see if mice did a number on some of your wiring during the winter storage.
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what happens when you turn on the key.... do you hear the pump initializing and pressurizing? It makes a whining sound as it completes its cycle.
You can check the fuel lines, they run on the left side of the scoot....
you can disconnect the fuel connector at the throttle assembly to make sure that it is not obstructed.
also, how much gas is there in the tank? was it full when you put it to sleep. May want to siphon out the old gas and replace it with new.
good luck....
You can check the fuel lines, they run on the left side of the scoot....
you can disconnect the fuel connector at the throttle assembly to make sure that it is not obstructed.
also, how much gas is there in the tank? was it full when you put it to sleep. May want to siphon out the old gas and replace it with new.
good luck....
No it doesn't make any sound at all. The relay does not close. I can get it to close by putting a test light on the power wire going to the fuel pump relay. But that's the only way. Other relays click, but not the fuel pump relay.
Heres a few pictures of what I am dealing with. Pictures always seem to help, no matter how bad they are.
First off, this is under the front plastic, behind the headlights. Where is this connector supposed to go? It is not connected to anything.
Code
Heres a video of how it reacts when I turn the key on.
I am absolutely at a loss. I unplugged the ecm, and cleaned all the connectors, no luck. I put a test light on the wire going from the ecm to the fuel pump relay, and the relay closes just as when I did it at the relay.
Also, in this thread, viewtopic.php?f=4&t=53686 it is also me. The Burgman took a back seat to life for quite a long time. Now I am back at it and raring to get this thing running. At the very least, to get it sold.
First off, this is under the front plastic, behind the headlights. Where is this connector supposed to go? It is not connected to anything.
Code
Heres a video of how it reacts when I turn the key on.
I am absolutely at a loss. I unplugged the ecm, and cleaned all the connectors, no luck. I put a test light on the wire going from the ecm to the fuel pump relay, and the relay closes just as when I did it at the relay.
Also, in this thread, viewtopic.php?f=4&t=53686 it is also me. The Burgman took a back seat to life for quite a long time. Now I am back at it and raring to get this thing running. At the very least, to get it sold.
From what I have read on the other topic seems clear enough that your ECM doesn't sends the command to the fuel pump relay.
When you put your test lamp on that wire(the one between the ECM and fuel pump relay) you are actually grounding that wire, doing the ECM's job.
Why does the ECM doesn't sends the command ? Well,... I can think at 2 options:
1- a bad ECM
2- a safety condition isn't met; to check this you have to read the manual and see what conditions the working of the fuel pump; I don't have much experience with scooters,but at motorcycles the fuel pump is stopped when the tip over switch is activated. The first thing I would do it would be to check if that switch is in the correct position and if it does output the correct signal.
When you put your test lamp on that wire(the one between the ECM and fuel pump relay) you are actually grounding that wire, doing the ECM's job.
Why does the ECM doesn't sends the command ? Well,... I can think at 2 options:
1- a bad ECM
2- a safety condition isn't met; to check this you have to read the manual and see what conditions the working of the fuel pump; I don't have much experience with scooters,but at motorcycles the fuel pump is stopped when the tip over switch is activated. The first thing I would do it would be to check if that switch is in the correct position and if it does output the correct signal.
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Just looking at the manual for a C41 code the test procedures indicate either a bad relay, a ground or open in the wiring, or a bad ECM. First thing I would do is pull the relay off and test it to see if it is good. Just because you hear it click does not mean it is working. All that tells you is that the trigger side of the relay is trying to close the switch inside it. It does not tell you if the switch is actually closing and letting power through
The test for the relay says to remove it from the bike. Test that there is no continuity between the A and B terminals when the relay is not powered then apply 12V to the trigger side of the relay and see if it has continuity between the A and B terminals. If it fails either test then replace the relay. The A and B terminals appear to be the ones the Y/R and R/Bl wires attach to. The trigger side appears to be the Y/G and O/W wires attach to. If you have a shop manual look at page 10-17 for a drawing of relay to help you with identifying the terminals. That is the side stand relay but it and the fuel pump relay are identical.
The test for the relay says to remove it from the bike. Test that there is no continuity between the A and B terminals when the relay is not powered then apply 12V to the trigger side of the relay and see if it has continuity between the A and B terminals. If it fails either test then replace the relay. The A and B terminals appear to be the ones the Y/R and R/Bl wires attach to. The trigger side appears to be the Y/G and O/W wires attach to. If you have a shop manual look at page 10-17 for a drawing of relay to help you with identifying the terminals. That is the side stand relay but it and the fuel pump relay are identical.
Just tested the relay. The relay is good.
Also, I found that when I tested continuity with the Orange/White wire on the fuel pump relay, it showed continuity with the Green/Blue wire AND the Orange/White wire at the ECM plug.....uh oh...I think we might have a problem
"EDIT" I think that is a common ground, makes sense to have continuity with other wires. Also, is there a way to test for a bad ECM?
Also, I found that when I tested continuity with the Orange/White wire on the fuel pump relay, it showed continuity with the Green/Blue wire AND the Orange/White wire at the ECM plug.....uh oh...I think we might have a problem
"EDIT" I think that is a common ground, makes sense to have continuity with other wires. Also, is there a way to test for a bad ECM?
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