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Discussion Starter #1
Rode today great ride until I got about 1mile from home bike stalled and would not crank. Trailered home- charged battery- bike starts and runs fine but the voltage meter only shows 12.8 at max. I have a gauge on the dash which I monitor and it never before read 12.8. Usually its about 14volts. I guess either the regulator or the generator is the problem. Any ideas??
 

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If you are lucky it is just the regulator. It could also be the stator or both. If you have a service manual there are procedures for checking both. Neither is hard to change out but the stator is the more expensive of the two and is slightly more difficult to change out.
 

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It is much more likely the rectifier/regulator (R/R) as the stator coils are generally quite reliable.

The R/R can be easily tested with a multimeter having a diode test mode (most do) or even just a regular ohmmeter function. The stator coils can also be tested with an ohmmeter.




 

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In addition to testing the resistance on the stator you should check the output voltage. With the plug undone start the engine and rev it to 5,000 rpm. With the multimeter on the AC voltage setting test to see if you are getting 50+ volts AC between any two pin combinations on the plug coming from the stator. Test all three combinations. When mine went bad I was getting 50+ volts on two of the combinations but not on the third. If you don't have a service manual look here for more detailed instructions on testing and replacing the stator. http://burgmanusa.com/forums/15-burgman-650/46746-ugh-bad-stator-3.html
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks for the info will start to work on it tomorrow. What is this ??? " keep the rotor from turning with the special tool while you screw the M20 bolt in." What is the special tool??
 

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Thanks for the info will start to work on it tomorrow. What is this ??? " keep the rotor from turning with the special tool while you screw the M20 bolt in." What is the special tool??
It is very VERY unlikely you will have to remove the rotor so its not something to be concerned about--the rotor can be held with more commonly available tools, and very often judicious use of an impact wrench eliminates any needs for special holding tools.

One caution I have however is that in testing the stator coils output's be aware that its 50 to 55 V output, at 83 Hz @ 5,000 rpm, with 300 W of "grunt" behind it will toast your cookies or anything else that gets between it and any lower potential--it can in fact be quite be lethal so take proper precautions...
 

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How ironic the same thing happened to me today. Just coming back from 162 mile trip. Just turned 3000 miles on the bike which is a 09. Does anyone have any recommendations on where to get a regulator? Anyone ever have any luck with suzukis customer service?
 

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Thanks for the info will start to work on it tomorrow. What is this ??? " keep the rotor from turning with the special tool while you screw the M20 bolt in." What is the special tool??
It is very VERY unlikely you will have to remove the rotor so its not something to be concerned about--the rotor can be held with more commonly available tools, and very often judicious use of an impact wrench eliminates any needs for special holding tools.

One caution I have however is that in testing the stator coils output's be aware that its 50 to 55 V output, at 83 Hz @ 5,000 rpm, with 300 W of "grunt" behind it will toast your cookies or anything else that gets between it and any lower potential--it can in fact be quite be lethal so take proper precautions...
If you have ever seen the tools they use to hold the variator on the 400 when they loosen the bolt the special tool looks very much like it. It's a "Y" shaped bar with pins on the ends of the "Y" to fit in holes on the rotor so that you can keep it from turning while you loosen or tighten the nut. As Cliffy says you can get by without it if you have an impact wrench. That is what I used to remove mine and I tightened it back with the wrench and torque sticks.

Also as Cllify says be careful when you are running the test that you don't get yourself between the output of the stator and ground. It would really light you up.

I would not say it is very unlikely you will have to replace the stator. If the regulator goes bad and you run the bike very far like that it can fry the stator. Only way you can tell is to test it and see if it is putting out the correct output voltage.
 

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How ironic the same thing happened to me today. Just coming back from 162 mile trip. Just turned 3000 miles on the bike which is a 09. Does anyone have any recommendations on where to get a regulator? Anyone ever have any luck with suzukis customer service?
I got my stator from these folks. http://ricksmotorsportelectrics.com/aftermarket-stators . Much cheaper than getting one from Suzuki. They also have Mosfet style rectifiers cheaper than the standard OEM rectifier.
 

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Having had a stator go bad in another life where I picked up a used replacement off ebay, I have a couple of questions. Is there any particular trick to getting it rewound? Are there particular specs you need to know or is having the part in hand sufficient to get the job done? Also, is there any particular benefit in choosing to either replace or rewind one of these? In my earlier case it wasn't even the stator that went out but the crankshaft position sensor.

Just curious for future reference.
 

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Having had a stator go bad in another life where I picked up a used replacement off ebay, I have a couple of questions. Is there any particular trick to getting it rewound? Are there particular specs you need to know or is having the part in hand sufficient to get the job done? Also, is there any particular benefit in choosing to either replace or rewind one of these? In my earlier case it wasn't even the stator that went out but the crankshaft position sensor.

Just curious for future reference.
At the time my stator went out Rick Motor Sport Electrics was not producing new stators for the 650 yet. However they said if I sent them my stator they could rewind it. I did not have to provide them with any kind of specs. Since that time they have started producing new stators for the 650 so you don't have to have your old one rebuilt.

I don't think they are producing new stators for the 400 yet so on a 400 you would have to send them the old stator. I'm not sure what they would do about the CPS bring out. That's a question you would have to pose to them.

Edited to add. The only benefit to having one rewound over getting a new one is it cost a lot less (getting mine rewound was 1/2 the cost of a new one). If the work is done correctly the rewound one should last just as long as a new one. The wait time to get the stator rewound will probably be a little longer than just getting a new one though.
 

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Any auto/bike-electric shop capable of rewinding it will be capable of determining all they need to know by having it in hand, they may even have suggestions for improving it...
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Tested the stator ac output seems ok @46 volts at 3500rpm. Tested the regulator which I believe to be bad. Need to find a replacement which is better than oem. Mosfet??
 

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