[Fatboymatt]

I had put off changing coolant because of all the work taking plastics parts off to get to bottom hose and decided to try a idea I have been kicking around. I decided to syphon the old coolant out from the top of the radiator where you fill with new coolant. Getting to filler cap was not hard at all. I siphoned out old coolant and then added new coolant. Did this several times and used about 1/2 gallon of new antifreeze. I had no air bubbles and figure I got about 95% of old coolant out. Have ran scooter several times and temp gauge runs normal temp. This was way easier than how my service manual showed all the work taking numerous parts off. I have always used Prestone antifreeze and used there 10 year or 100,000 miles product. It's good for all vehicles and motorcycles. Suzuki needs to come up with a coolant drain like a car.

 

[mikeyMarine]

i gotta wonder how hard it would be to install one myself! (hmmm. I need a sharp stick,,,)

 

[zrx212]

I really don't see how your process replaced any significant amount of coolant out of radiator, lower hoses or engine block. The filler cap is the highest point of system, if you stuck a flexible hose down the filler neck all the way down to radiator (if even possible), you would only replace the fluid to top of radiator.

I found the coolant replacement process fairly easy; I don't follow the shop manual or even Mitch's video on this instance (No you didn't, ) both are really overdoing it on the panel removal part, IMO, not sure that blowing hose out is really necessary.
In addition to cap access, I just remove LH painted skirt and loosen or remove lower louvered panel to gain access to lower hose clamp, etc. the air bleeding is "Absolutely" necessary, I just loosened/displaced the airbox and intake hose slightly to access bleed bolt with long extension and swivel socket, etc. Fill, run for a few minutes, bleed, repeat a few times

 

[Fatboymatt]

I really don't see how your process replaced any significant amount of coolant out of radiator, lower hoses or engine block. The filler cap is the highest point of system, if you stuck a flexible hose down the filler neck all the way down to radiator (if even possible), you would only replace the fluid to top of radiator.

I found the coolant replacement process fairly easy; I don't follow the shop manual or even Mitch's video on this instance (No you didn't, ) both are really overdoing it on the panel removal part, IMO, not sure that blowing hose out is really necessary.
In addition to cap access, I just remove LH painted skirt and loosen or remove lower louvered panel to gain access to lower hose clamp, etc. the air bleeding is "Absolutely" necessary, I just loosened/displaced the airbox and intake hose slightly to access bleed bolt with long extension and swivel socket, etc. Fill, run for a few minutes, bleed, repeat a few times

You need to run scooter after siphoning and adding new coolant several times and you see how much old coolant comes out. Worked very well for me. Stopped seeing old coolant and new I was done. Easy peasy. PS I siphoned old antifreeze out of overflow tank to and added new coolant before starting siphoning process.

 

[zrx212]

You need to run scooter after siphoning and adding new coolant several times and you see how much old coolant comes out. Worked very well for me. Stopped seeing old coolant and new I was done. Easy peasy.

Well, you kinda missed that bit of info on 1st post, but still not onboard with that process

 

[nulldevice]

From what I found on the Internet the radiator is a cross flow design with the end tanks on the sides and not the top and bottom. If you can work the siphon hose around that short 90 degree turn into the bottom of the tank you would get a drain a little lower than the hose removal. So, the siphon idea is a good one, but I have to wonder how the hose was worked into the bottom of the tank. That is a really sharp 90 degree turn to make.

 

[Dave_J]

From what I found on the Internet the radiator is a cross flow design with the end tanks on the sides and not the top and bottom. If you can work the siphon hose around that short 90 degree turn into the bottom of the tank you would get a drain a little lower than the hose removal. So, the siphon idea is a good one, but I have to wonder how the hose was worked into the bottom of the tank. That is a really sharp 90 degree turn to make.

Both the 400 and 650 are top and bottom tanks. The top tank may hold 2 1/2 cups on the 650, maybe 3 cups on the 400..

 

[Dave_J]

On my 650 it is so easy to pop the bottom hose off to dump it. Replace hose. Fill with my choice of Prestone 10 year coolant. Lean the bike left and right. Top off radiator. Start the bike and lean it left and right. Shut bike off. Top off radiator. Repeat till no air pockets inside engine.

Bet I can do it faster than the "Siphon then top off with fresh, run engine. Siphon then top off, run engine. Siphon........"

 

[nulldevice]

Obviously it differs from year to year, model to model, and perhaps country to country. For my United States 2008 Burgman 400 the parts catalog shows:

and what I see on my machine is a cross flow radiator

RADIATOR for Suzuki BURGMAN 400 2008 # SUZUKI MOTORCYCLES - Genuine Spare Parts Catalog

www.bike-parts-suz.com

 

[Dave_J]

Obviously it differs from year to year, model to model, and perhaps country to country. For my United States 2008 Burgman 400 the parts catalog shows: View attachment 100009
and what I see on my machine is a cross flow radiator

RADIATOR for Suzuki BURGMAN 400 2008 # SUZUKI MOTORCYCLES - Genuine Spare Parts Catalog

www.bike-parts-suz.com

Your Yellow picture is the same one as my White picture. It is not a cross flow. It has an Aluminum top tank and an Aluminum bottom tank and the CORE is up and down.

Here is it in White with annotations.

 

[Dave_J]

Side by side and cropped to fit.

 

[Bluestrom13]

Obviously it differs from year to year, model to model, and perhaps country to country.

Err...No. This information from same site. A very useful feature for future reference. "Search by Part Number".

RADIATOR ASSY WATER 17710-05H00-000 Search by part number # SUZUKI MOTORCYCLES - Genuine Spare Parts Catalog

www.bike-parts-suz.com

(Edited to add - scroll down that linked page to see list of applicable years and locals).

 

[Bluestrom13]

I really don't see how your process replaced any significant amount of coolant out of radiator, lower hoses or engine block. The filler cap is the highest point of system, if you stuck a flexible hose down the filler neck all the way down to radiator (if even possible), you would only replace the fluid to top of radiator

I have to admire OP's optimism. New coolant queues in orderly fashion behind old coolant until everything has gone full circle after several restarts.
And presumably we are waiting for thermostat each time?

 

[zrx212]

I have to admire OP's optimism.

Me too , I can't see where the resulting mixture of old degraded vs new fluid will be and effective "Coolant" mixture, to have the desired long-term protection and/or system performance. I'm a real advocate of finding easier/better/unorthodox ways to do service/mechanical things as long as the desired results/outcome is met, not in this case IMO.

 

[s-steel]

btw, what is pipe 7's job? what 2 parts is it connecting?

 

[Bluebottle]

Ideally you want any crud and sediment flushed out.

 

[nulldevice]

Side by side and cropped to fit.
View attachment 100011

Side by side and cropped to fit.
View attachment 100011

OK, cool. I must have been having a grand mal senior moment. I apparently didn't know which way was up.

 

[Bluestrom13]

btw, what is pipe 7's job? what 2 parts is it connecting?

Pipe number 7 is by-pass hose.
Top connection = Thermostat
Bottom connection = Water Pump.

 

[tomla]

The OP's technique removes about 40ml of coolant. Would be an easy way to add an anti-corrosion additive or some Redline water wetter or similar...