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Discussion Starter #1
I decided to be brave and replace the fork seals on my 2006 AN650. The right one (from the riders seat) was leaking. I watched a few videos...and got started. I have the front wheel and fender off. I've removed both forks. Dust covers and retaining clips have been removed after I took off the top cap and removed the spacer, washer and springs. The oil has been removed and now I'm ready to remove the seals. On the videos the mechanic gave the tubes a couple of hard yanks and the two tubes came apart. Here is my problem. The left fork tubes move in and out, but no matter how hard I yank... nothing! The right fork is another problem. The two tubes seem locked. No movement in and out. There was up and down movement still when it was on the bike. What's next?
 

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If you're referring to getting the metering tube out of the outer tube, you may have luck using an impact wrench to jar the bolt loose without spinning the metering tube.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Do I need to remove the bottom bolt to remove the upper tube? One slides in and out easily, the other one feels "stuck".
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Did you remove the cylinder bolt, cylinder, and rebound spring?
I have removed the top of the fork with a 17 mm hex tool. I have removed the spacer, washer and inner spring. Now I need to pull the upper tube out of the lower part of the fork so I can replace the seals.
 

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I believe so, the bolt needs to be removed then the cylinder and dampening spring come out and then you pull the tubes apart. If the cylinder turns with the bolt , temporary put the fork spring and cap back on to keep the cylinder from turning.
 

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I have removed the top of the fork with a 17 mm hex tool. I have removed the spacer, washer and inner spring. Now I need to pull the upper tube out of the lower part of the fork so I can replace the seals.
There is a dampening cylinder below the main spring that has to be removed, the bolt that is keeping it in place is at the bottom of the shock
 

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If you are going to take it all apart like that I would have drilled out the cylinder and put emulators in. I am having a shop do mine next week. I do not have the place to do it myself.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I'm not trying to change the ride. I just had a fork seal that was leaking, and need to change it. The dealer wants $325.00 to do it. My problem reamains...the forks are off the bike and the oil is drained, but I can't get the upper cylinder out. I even put one back together, and tried removing the bottom hex screw, but it just turns and turns, but doesn't come out. One of the two forks is "stuck". When apart, the upper cylinder is "locked" in the fully compressed position. The other one moves in and out, but no matter how hard or how many times I yank on it, the seal doesn't move. I guess I'll have to take them to the dealer or other shop to finish the job.
 

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I'll have a quick skim through the work shop manual for you to see what I can find. I'd guess that if you were now to take the forks into the dealer in the partial disassembled state along with the new replacement seals, you'd be charged a fraction of the $325 quote - is my guess
 

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Viewing the workshop manual -> 9.32

Loosen the front fork clamp bolt
Note: slightly loosen the front fork cap bolt before loosening the lower clamp bolts to facilitate later disassembly

Loosen the front fork lower clamp bolts
Note: hold the front fork by hand to prevent sliding out of the steering stem

Remove the front fork cap bolt with the special tool

Remove spacer, washer and spring

Invert the fork and drain the fork oil out of the fork by stroking

Hold the fork inverted for a few minutes to drain oil

Remove the cylinder bolt
Note: If the cylinder turns together with the cylinder bolt, temporarily install the fork spring, spacer, washer and cap bolt to prevent the cylinder from turning

Remove the cylinder and rebound spring

Remove the dust seal

Remove the oil seal stopper ring

Pull the inner tube out of the outer tube

Remove the following parts:
- oil seal
- oil seal retainer
- guide metal
- slide metal
- oil lock piece
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Thanks bikerdoc. I tried putting it back together after I drained the oil to see if I could remove the bottom cylinder bolt. I had loosened it before I removed anything. But no matter what, it just turns but doesn't release. I think I need more than a hand operated hex wrench! This morning I took the forks and new seals to a bike shop, and he said for about an hours labor he will remove and replace the seals, refill the fork with the appropriate amount of 15w fork oil (I provided the oil), and have them ready to be reinstalled on the scooter. Let's hop she's ready to ride tonight! The weather is supposed to be nice tomorrow (70's and clear) and I'm off work for a couple of days!
 

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Discussion Starter #13
All done and back on the road. I had to remove the top fork brace because my torque wrench malfunctioned. When I was tightening the top pinch bolt I snapped off the bolt. I was using a torque wrench set at 16.5 ft lbs of torque. I think I need a new torque wrench! I had to drill out the broken bolt and use an easy out, buy a new bolt (and a 30 mm socket for the center nut). But $135.00 and it's all done! Next, I need new tires soon and a complete service (I can do that) and then I''ll be off to Alaska this summer!! I have an 8,500 mile trip planned that includes the Top of the World highway as well as the Haul Road. Can't Wait!!!!!!!!!!
 

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Good to go.

On your trip, remember that I am about half way to Alaska from you.
 
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