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2022 Matte Deep Blue Kymco AK 550
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Discussion Starter · #101 ·
Is the hump on the 550 higher — harder to step through — than on the Burger?
The step over hump is just a little bit higher than the Burgman 650. So far I haven't had any issues with that. It's way better than what it looks like on the Forza 750 or even some of the others in this same class.

@Taichungman , I don't intend to leave this forum. At least not until I am kicked out. I'm still a member over on the ST-Owners forum and still post over there as well even though I haven't had an ST for over 7 years now. And I still moderate the CTX1300 forum but sold my CTX over 3 years ago.
 

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Discussion Starter · #102 · (Edited)
Rode the AK out to the county DOT office to get it registered and titled. Wasn't sure if the State would charge me tax based on the actual purchase price or deduct the trade-in allowance and tax that amount. Different states work it differently. Turns out that Iowa deducts the trade allowance first and then calculates tax on the balance. For some really strange reason, or perhaps governmental convoluted calculating, they set the purchase price somewhat less than the actual purchase price even though it was plainly stated on the purchase agreement. So the State thinks I was charged the purchase price of $10199 less the trade value of $4200 and charged me tax based on $5999. Yet I wrote the check for the balance for $6000. Oh well, I was fine with paying tax on a slightly lower amount.

OK, now I divulged all my secret details of my purchase. But not all. I did get the Kymco promotional discount of $250 off any Kymco product 250 cc or bigger. That promotion goes to the Dec 31, 2021.

This trip was a 29 miles round trip. I did discover that if I set the navigation start point to a building or someplace not actually ON the road then the Noodoe nav system will continually attempt to route me directly to that point... off road! So I recalculated the route to start at my current location and all worked out really well.

At the county vehicle registration office.
Wheel Tire Sky Vehicle Automotive tire

In Iowa when buying a new vehicle within 30 days of selling a previous one I can simply transfer the existing plate over to the new vehicle. That is what I did... for now. I am considering possibly getting a personalized license plate for my AK. Maybe when it's time to renew registration.
Rectangle Font Wood Electric blue Automotive exterior

The colors of the default plate don't do justice to the lovely Matte Deep Blue of my AK 550. But I think a blacked out plate with white lettering will work better.
 

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In Iowa when buying a new vehicle within 30 days of selling a previous one I can simply transfer the existing plate over to the new vehicle. That is what I did... for now. I am considering possibly getting a personalized license plate for my AK. Maybe when it's time to renew registration.
View attachment 96337
The colors of the default plate don't do justice to the lovely Matte Deep Blue of my AK 550. But I think a blacked out plate with white lettering will work better.
In a similar vein, when I bought a new BMW R850R in 1997, I got this plate: R850R

(That got lost in a house move, I believe. Sigh.)

When I bought a new Valkyrie Interstate in 2000, I got this plate (still hanging up in my man cave):

Motor vehicle Light Grille Automotive exterior Bumper


Later on, NY DMV got around to issuing "Veteran" plates for motorcycles -- for some reason, they had those for cars for years, but not bikes. Anyway, when they did kind of get their act together, I have since had nothing but the Veteran plates. Unfortunately, they don't allow the custom (aka "vanity") plates for motorcycle Veteran plates (because of limited space, I think, alongside "Veteran"), so I just have the number they issued. (The good news is that there's a small one-time fee for the vet plate, but the vanity plates carried a small annual fee here.)
 
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Discussion Starter · #104 ·
Spent the day yesterday re-arranging the garage to be able to park both cars inside instead of one forced to sit in the driveway. During warmer months the Corolla sits outside while half of the garage is filled with garden and yard work supplies and "stuff" as well as both my wife's and my scooters are parked there. During cold months to prevent the need to scrape ice off windows we put away all the garden and lawn stuff and bring the snow thrower to the front on one side putting away my wife's scooter for the season and make room for the Corolla to fit in yet also allow me to easily get my scooter out for a ride when I want. We only have an extended 2 car garage so that becomes a trick sometimes but I've managed to figure it out each year. With the technology in this scooter using the battery more than other, more archaic, scooters do even while parked I plug in the battery maintainer more often than I normally would. It doesn't constantly use battery but just a bit more than any other bike I've owned. If I turn off BT on my phone and put the keyless fob in a Faraday pouch the AK doesn't keep trying to find me nor connect to my phone so that helps preserve battery power.

Here is my new AK 550 tucked into it's winter parking spot ready to back out when the whim strikes. It looks tight but it does easily fit past the Rav4 to get out of the garage.
Tire Wheel Vehicle Fuel tank Automotive tire
 

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Discussion Starter · #105 ·
While I was in the mood I removed the windshield and the front top cover to see what the amp rating is on the battery tender pigtail the dealer installed for me. 7.5 amps. IOW, the standard fuse for battery tender. I found and saved a pigtail in my Amazon list with a 15 amp fuse. The wire in the standard pigtail might be able to handle 15 amps but not totally positive so I'll be changing that out. My mini compressor needs a 15 amp fuse. I also will be buying a new Battery Tender Plus, 1.25 amp, 6v or 12v. I'll use the new BT+ on the AK and use my old maintainer for the John Deere and the Metropolitan... switching off every few weeks between those two. My old one is an AccuMate battery maintainer I bought when I had my Gold Wing back in 2004. It's still working as advertised.

Oh, and since I removed the windshield I put back in the upper position for the cooler months coming along now. Was very easy to do all this. No need to remove the front top cover to move the shield. But it does need to come off to get at the battery which is located up there just in front of the instrument panels, or the fuse box which clips on top the battery. That front top cover has 2 small screws and 2 plastic rivets to take out then simply pull it straight forward, in a motion parallel to the ground, to unlatch the clips and hooks around the perimeter and it pulls right off. Putting it back on is the reverse and it snaps right on after lining up the hooks and clips. The shield bracket screws and shield screws do have a torque value but I didn't use the torque wrench. The brackets are hard heavy plastic so just very tight is good for those. The shield screws go through rubber grommets as with all shield screws on any bike so very snug on those. The steps and pics are very clear in the owners manual on relocating the shield up or down so no real need for pics on that.
 

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Discussion Starter · #106 ·
After 455 miles riding the AK I think I can give a little bit of an assessment of this scooter. I say "I think" because 90% of those miles is highway so not a lot of slower roads traveled yet.

Starting from the top:
The shield is plenty for my needs and comfort. There is more protection than it would seem just looking at it. Most of the miles so far have been with the shield in the lower position. In this position I do get a stream of wind over the shield and maybe a little around it. But I want that during the warm and hot months when I would have the shield in the low position. I wear a full face helmet (not a modular) and like having the air stream flowing to the vents at the top of my helmet. The wind hits just above the visor on me so that's perfect. I only just recently moved the shield to the upper position and went on a 20 mile ride with it that way. There was plenty of protection with the air stream going over my helmet. This upper position is 1.5 inches higher and not angled back as much as the lower position so that bumps the air just over my helmet. Maybe, just maybe, I feel a little air on the very top but that's to be expected since I am after all on a motor-scooter (If you really want NO wind on you when you ride then stay inside your fully enclosed cage and keep the windows closed).

The seat is comfortable. I was a little concerned about that since I've not sat on a really comfortable stock seat until my CTX1300. My Burgman had a Corbin seat which was very comfortable, much more so than the CTX. Even more so than the Gold Wing I had years ago. I was wondering how many miles before I started to feel like I needed to get off the bike to rest but I just kept going and never got to that point. Either I changed or the stock seats are getting better or this Kymco AK 550 seat in particular is really that good. At least to me it is. I was comfortable the entire 200+ miles of the first day riding back from the dealer as well as 200+ miles on the next day. 406 miles total for both days.

I mentioned before after I first had a chance to sit on one of these how the ergonomics worked out for leg/foot room. I still hold to that. My reach to the grips on the AK has almost just the same feel as my reach was on the Burgman 650. Not enough to really tell any difference, although I'm sure in a side view picture a slight difference can be seen it is so slight so as to be hard to tell.

On my Burgman I found the only really comfortable place for my feet was right at the bend from the level foot board to the slanted foot board. My knees and hips were bent too much to be comfortable for long with my feet fully on the level foot board and the slanted foot board was just a little far away for me. I could keep my feet on the slanted board but my knees were too straight so a bit of a strain. On the AK I find it comfortable to keep my feet on the level foot board for a long time since the seat is higher and the more I ride it the more I am convinced the extra height is between the seat and level foot board. I can also more comfortably put my feet fully on the slanted foot board as well. My feet do still tend to drift to that place right at the notch in between slanted and level foot boards with the ball of my foot on the slant and my heal on the level out of habit. But with the AK I find I just leave my feet on the level foot board more and more. Since there is more distance from the seat to the level boards my hips and knees are not bent as much so are much more comfortable. I used to be young enough when all this didn't matter so much but those years are way past. I do definitely find the foot boards on the AK are longer, but not wider, than on the Burgman 650. So I can slide my feet forward or back a little on the level foot boards, or up or down a little on the slanted foot boards, before running out of foot board. The AK foot boards have a notch between the level and slanted boards that allow my toe to slide even more forward when on the level foot board.

The seat height is more than on MY Burgman 650 and also more than the stock Burgman 650. Burgman seat height = 29.9 inches. AK 550 seat height = 30.9 inches. For my comparison my ST1100 seat height = 31.5 inches. I could flat foot both feet easily on my Burgman. I can also do that on the AK but not as easily. If I slide up a little on the seat I can flat foot both sides but if I stay back in the seat I can only flat foot one side at a time. But the other foot is solidly on the ground if not down on my heal. I am 5 ft 9 in. with a 32 inch inseam. I never feel any instability on the AK while coming to or holding at a stop.

The ride so far is very nice. The engine does rev higher while doing the same thing as the Burgman. The red line is the same on both machines. The low end power feels better on the AK and acceleration also feels better. Holding speed on the Interstate highways at 65 mph is the same even with the engine revving higher on the AK. It does not feel like it's revving too high at any speed once I become accustomed to hearing/feeling/seeing that it is at a higher rpm. Just another something to become used to as with any new bike. Sort of like keeping the Power Mode turned on all the time with the Burgman. So far the mpg is as good as with the Burgman. I wasn't expecting that with this being a NEW bike. Usually mpg starts out a little lower than expected with a new bike and improves as the miles add on. If it goes as is expected then I will be very pleased with the mpg. I actually already am pleased since so far I've been getting around 55 mpg with one tank that I refilled before it was half gone that was below 50 mpg. But that low mpg was expected also since the temps during that part of the ride were below 50 F and in my experience the mpg starts to really drop about there.

The suspension is as good as I've been reading and hearing about in reviews. Going down mildly bouncy roads, where the pavement is not bumpy but just not so flat, the bike behaves as any other bike does and follows the "wave" of the pavement. But on bumps and uneven cracks in pavement the AK front end makes those a little softer than the Burgman did. There is no shock at the front end when hitting those. And the rear soaks up the bumps and uneven cracks as well. The rear shocks are not adjustable on the standard AK 550. There was a special edition that came out overseas a few years ago that did have adjustable shocks but that has not been the norm for the entire run since the end of 2017 when this bike was first announced. Overall I think the suspension is really good.

Almost forgot to mention about the heated grips. I did have a chance to try those out on that one leg of the trip home where the temps dropped below 50 F. I never went above the lowest setting and my hands were hot! I'll be testing just how well they work with my hands and gloves when the temps get really cold, like close to zero F. I'm still skeptical if they will be enough for me at those temps but we'll see.

The built-in features are neat. It is very nice to do a quick check of tire psi using the integrated TPMS and also flip past the voltage dispay. I usually leave it on either the voltage monitor or average mpg display while riding. Someday I'll rig up something temporary to mount my phone to do a cross check compare of the speedometer with the phone GPS.

The keyless system is way different to use than having an actual key but I'm getting used to it. The keyless control is really not as complicated as it looks and doesn't really have as much complexity as it seems at first glance. It basically does the same functions as a standard keyed ignition switch but just without inserting a key. It turns on the bike, opens the seat storage, opens the gas cap cover, locks the handlebars. And that's really it. It is nice not having to find my key to put into the ignition switch, but I do need to make sure I know where that fob is located and that it is secure in a zippered pocket in my gear.

The Noodoe system is cool. It could be much better but still nice to have some of the features enabled on the bike. I've already experienced how the notifications work for missed text messages and missed phone calls. Those only show up when sitting at a stop light for a little while and then go away when I start moving. I've been playing with the navigation that is built into the app. There are many quirks to it but I think I work through those to make it usable for me. Still a work in progress. I have found that if I set a way point just OFF the road I actually ride on the nav tends to want me to keep circling around that point until I hit right on it. That's usually only when I set a way point on a business or landmark that I cannot actually ride exactly to. The only way around it when that happens is to stop and reset the route to start at "my current location" and then it will move on. The nav does recalculate as expected and gets me to where I programmed it to go. It even has voice prompts for turn by turn. I'm still getting used to where some of the settings are in the program. One of the issues that has been reported is that because the Noodoe system, and also the keyless system, is always on in the background then the battery tends to drain more rapidly than any other bike. I have found that this doesn't happen quite as much if I make sure to turn off BT on my phone and also put my keyless fob in a Faraday pouch so the bike isn't continually trying to recognize those when they are near enough to be detected by those systems. I also keep the battery plugged into my battery maintainer. The battery at rest seems to show 12.7 vdc. But after a day it drops to 12.6 vdc unless I keep it plugged into the maintainer. I have ordered a new Battery Tender Plus to use just on my AK and use my other maintainer alternately on my wife's scooter and the JD lawn tractor. There is a setting in the app to enable the bike to remember the BT connection for a set number of days. This plays into the battery drain. The trade off is if I set this to a short time I have to re-pair the bike to the phone if that time is past or if I set this to a longer number of days the battery goes down just a little more. But keeping it connected to the Batt Tender would solve that issue.

I'm having fun on this new scooter and will continue to report on what I learn about it. My first oil/filter change interval is coming up in about 140 miles. I think due to the temp trends of the next many weeks I'll be doing that maintenance a little before the scheduled 600 miles. 461 miles on the odometer right now. I'd like to get at least another 80-90 miles riding before I do that and also get the job done next Tuesday. I say that since that is the next and likely the last day this year that will have temps over 60 F per the current forecast. There are already several videos on YouTube that show doing the oil/filter change so I don't think I need to be redundant about that.
 

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Discussion Starter · #107 ·
2 small items for the AK arrived today from Amazon. One is a Battery Tender brand USB dongle that plugs into the SAE connector of the Battery Tender pigtail the dealer already installed for me in the right glove box. Now I'll be able to charge 2 things via USB. The stock plug in the left glove box and this USB plug in the right glove box. The difference will be that the Battery Tender plug in the right box is always on.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DJ5KEF4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I also received a better battery to SAE connector pigtail that will replace the Battery Tender one the dealer installed. The Battery Tender pigtails are all using 18 ga wire and usually only have a 7.5 amp fuse or smaller. Not a good idea to put a bigger fuse in there. You might be able to get by with a 10 amp as long as anything you plug into it has a short cable but that is near the max amps that the wire can handle. The pigtail I bought has 16 ga wire and has a 15 amp fuse. I need this for my mini compressor which will not work on anything smaller than a 15 amp fuse. I also already have a SAE to 12 vdc socket pigtail that will allow me to plug in almost anything in the right glove box. The only think about this pigtail is that I wish I could have found one that uses a mini fuse instead of the full size spade fuse this one has. No matter. I'll simply have to add a few 15 amp full sized spade fuses to my fuse box that I always carry on board.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08LMN45T5/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I don't yet need to have any plug mounted on the dash or handlebar cover to use while riding. That will be something for another time IF I find it is needed.
My new Battery Tender Plus should be arriving Tuesday.
 
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2 small items for the AK arrived today from Amazon. One is a Battery Tender brand USB dongle that plugs into the SAE connector of the Battery Tender pigtail the dealer already installed for me in the right glove box. Now I'll be able to charge 2 things via USB. The stock plug in the left glove box and this USB plug in the right glove box. The difference will be that the Battery Tender plug in the right box is always on.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DJ5KEF4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I also received a better battery to SAE connector pigtail that will replace the Battery Tender one the dealer installed. The Battery Tender pigtails are all using 18 ga wire and usually only have a 7.5 amp fuse or smaller. Not a good idea to put a bigger fuse in there. You might be able to get by with a 10 amp as long as anything you plug into it has a short cable but that is near the max amps that the wire can handle. The pigtail I bought has 16 ga wire and has a 15 amp fuse. I need this for my mini compressor which will not work on anything smaller than a 15 amp fuse. I also already have a SAE to 12 vdc socket pigtail that will allow me to plug in almost anything in the right glove box. The only think about this pigtail is that I wish I could have found one that uses a mini fuse instead of the full size spade fuse this one has. No matter. I'll simply have to add a few 15 amp full sized spade fuses to my fuse box that I always carry on board.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08LMN45T5/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I don't yet need to have any plug mounted on the dash or handlebar cover to use while riding. That will be something for another time IF I find it is needed.
My new Battery Tender Plus should be arriving Tuesday.
Bob, just a possibility for you ... if you haven't seen one of my occasional, identical, posts on this topic, or haven't thought about doing things this way:

I added below-left-thigh Powerlet sockets, first on a 2007 Exec 14 years ago, then on my 2012 Victory bagger about 10 years ago, and now on my 2008 Exec (which I bought in 2016).

Here are the write-ups:


I don't know what's underneath that blue angular piece below the seat on the left side of your 550, or maybe the silver piece below that, so I can't tell what's involved. I can only say that I really like this mod (duh, obviously, as I've done it on my last three bikes), and merely offer it for your consideration.
 

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Discussion Starter · #109 ·
The gas tank takes up pretty much all the space under the nose of the seat and extends a little in front of that. That's the bulge under the front of the nose of the seat. I haven't really looked at what room there might be under that blue angular panel between the front of the passenger handle and the black panel but seeing some of the bike without skin I'm not so sure there is very much there to work with. More likely a very little space behind the black plastic of the step over hump to either side of the center panel there. That center panel of the hump covers the air cleaner so no space under that panel. Also the glove boxes extend down from the glove box door hinges so are deeper than they seem at first glance. Like for my purposes if I were to mount a socket on an exterior panel it would be on either side of the dash below the instrument cluster on the more level part of the dash just up from the glove box latches. But to be honest, I like my connectors to be hidden inside a glove box or under the seat somewhere if possible and if I need to power something that I mount on the handlebars or on the dash I'll run a dedicated power cord from an aux fuse block I would add somewhere under the plastic. There is plenty of space on top the battery to put such a fuse block... right next to the main fuse block which is also on top the battery. This the way I've done on most of my bikes.
 
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Oh, I hear you, no problem.

And in large measure I agree with you. My current Exec:

Camera accessory Automotive design Camera lens Personal luxury car Cameras & optics


(These are all described in a caption here: www.billanddot.com/burgman/#64 .) The left covered item is a USB outlet, and I use that pretty much every ride, to power a GoPro (hence, It Was Another Nice Day For a Ride videos). To the right of that is a cig-style outlet, which I use once in a while to power my phone, if I need a GPS for some time (and, extremely rarely, once every few years, for an air compressor I keep on board). And in the right cubby I have an Eastern Beaver fuse panel, hooked up back to the battery with 10-gauge (hot-side fused) wire.

So, I'm with you, regarding fuse panels and outlets way up front.

My real point is that for 14 years now, I've found that I am completely satisfied -- thrilled, even -- with a coil-corded coax-into-a-Powerlet under my left thigh, for convenience, ease of use, etc., etc., for a heated liner ... along with using that same hookup every day the bike's parked in the garage for a smart-charger connection. Both uses are just so convenient to use, in terms of positioning, spring-loaded cover, ease of insertion and removal, and for making a very robust connection.

If you get a chance to look at that Victory sub-gallery, you'll see that all I needed was an area about an inch deep and about an inch wide, to accomplish this on that bike. And that I used mayonnaise for the first time on a bike farkle (in order to pinpoint that area).

In any case, happy motoring on your new AK (which makes me jealous, especially since I've already allocated next year's discretionary funds for a couple of overseas trips with my wife -- maybe 2023 ...).
 
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@rjs987
Quick question - In a post on the tyre thread you remarked that your AK550 was a little skittish pulling away from some lights at one point.
Does the scoot not have traction control? - my understanding is that it does. (From a UK 'MCN' road test report).
 

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Discussion Starter · #112 ·
@Bluestrom13
I'll clarify here.
First: Around here it is allowed to turn right on a red light after stopping and ensuring the way is clear. The equivalent for the UK would be to turn left. I.E., from outside lane to adjacent outside lane around a corner. This was what I was doing. Some traffic passed by on the cross street and there was a break in the traffic just enough that if I accelerated quickly I would have no issues with the additional oncoming traffic. I would not have attempted being aggressive doing this if there was any sand or gravel on the pavement but there was not. Totally clear dry pavement so I saw no issues with that for traction. As soon as the last truck in the first batch of traffic was even with me I started up aggressively leaning around the corner and accelerating fast to fall in right behind that truck. I was almost able to keep up with that truck since this bike took off so fast. Keep in mind... I was leaning around a turn. NO amount of traction control will prevent some slip while in a lean going around a turn. That would be impossible for traction control to prevent sideways sliding. I've had traction control on another bike and when going straight up and straight ahead it is fantastic. But both traction control and anti-lock brakes do nothing when the forces are sideways. That is true no matter how many wheels are on your vehicle. The intent is to either keep the wheels from spinning out of control or from locking up while attempting to stop (sliding never enables a good controlled acceleration or stop). Again, these systems only really work for when you are straight up going straight ahead and about to exceed the traction envelope.

Second: No, the AK 550 does not have traction control. It does have 2 riding modes. I think I've looked at that report from UK MCN. If I remember they said it was "LIKE" traction control in reference to the rain mode because it toned down the aggressiveness of acceleration. Or maybe they miss-used that term. I'd have to go back and look again.
 
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" For changing weather conditions there are two riding modes. Flick to rain mode and it’s a more subdued ride with initial throttle response reduced, traction control’s at it most responsive and there’s a noticeable lag as the 53bhp twin comes to life. Dry mode is the ‘go to’ mode, with full throttle available it’s more fun to ride. Once on the open road, the AK550 is swift to get to motorway speeds and like other maxi-scoots has enough left to nip through traffic. Fuel economy is lower than expected at an average of 53mpg,"

It's their loose description ... cheers.(y)

I'd have to go back and look again
 

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MANY Zero owners have found out NOT to grab a lot of throttle when leaned over in a corner.
 

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Discussion Starter · #115 ·
And I do remember that the first review of the AK 550 by VisorDown stated that the manufacturer is Yamaha!!!
Take a lot of what journalists say with a BIG grain of salt. That goes for much much more than just motorcycle/scooter reviews but, like, EVERYTHING.
 
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Discussion Starter · #116 ·
Read a post late last night on the Kymco forum that another AK owner took a chance and ran his gas tank down lower than before. It has been noted many times that the gas gauge on the AK seems to drop rapidly. There are 5 blocks for the gauge just like there were on my 2013 Burgman 650. The tank symbol doesn't flash but the last block, which is red, does flash the moment the second from bottom block goes away. I have noticed that happens at somewhere around 123 miles on the tank. The last fill up I did I ended up with 142 miles but the red bar had been flashing for around 20 miles already so I was wondering just how far I would go on what was left. I only filled up with 3 gallons on a 3.9 gallon tank so...

Turns out I didn't have to worry about it. That other owner said he ran the tank down much further after the last red bar had been flashing and then that red bar just drops off and the red "E" at that end of the gauge started to flash. So I surmise that there is a 2 step warning of low fuel just like on the Burgman 650. Don't know yet how many miles can go for the red bar or even the flashing "E" but am now willing to test that a few miles at a time. What I have going for me in doing this is the mpg is just the same as on my Burgman and the tank size is also the same. My last fill up was after more miles than I had gone between fill ups so far and still only 3 gallons was used so I know I can go a lot farther. Maybe even another 45 miles to empty? About that. And that was riding on a cool day when the mpg was calculated as lower than I had yet seen, due to the temp and also going 65+ mph for 90% of that tank.
 
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Sounds like a couple 1.5 liter MSR or Primus bottles need to be stuffed under the seat and then ride till flat empty.
 

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Discussion Starter · #118 ·
My new Battery Tender Plus arrived today. I moved my old battery maintainer to my wife's Metropolitan for now and plugged in the new BT+ to my AK 550. All is good.

Automotive tire Motor vehicle Electrical wiring Technology Tire


Later I'll get around to replacing the BT pigtail that is in the right glove box with the new 15 amp version that I recently also received. I measured the length and the 15 amp pigtail is a few inches longer than the BT pigtail that is installed already. 16 ga wire instead of the 18 ga that is in the BT pigtail.
 

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Discussion Starter · #119 ·
Oh, discovered something related to the AK 550 battery seeming to run down rather fast... I also find my phone runs down faster than before I had the AK... unless I turn off location and BT on my phone. I guess it's a good thing there's that USB plug in the left glove box. I have a 6 inch USB-C cord for my phone that I keep plugged in there while riding.
 

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2022 Matte Deep Blue Kymco AK 550
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4,288 Posts
Discussion Starter · #120 ·
Took some time today to change the end of my heated gloves power harness and put a SAE connector on the end so I can plug in at the SAE connector in the right glove box. This is a temporary solution until I decide on a more permanent one. I am actually hoping handlebar muffs will do the trick together with the heated grips to keep my hands warm down to zero F +/- a little from there. Always looking to simplify what is installed. Fewer points of failure down the road.

The heated grips are great but they really don't do much for my finger tips when temps get close to freezing so don't expect any more from them when temps drop another 32 F below that even at the highest heat setting.
 
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