BobG said:
NormanB said:
I find the Burgman 400 to be - different to a conventional motorcycle.
In comparison to a similar power machine I find I can throw the Burgman round a much tighter U turn - but only after a lot of practice.
It is just a diffent technique. Not having a manually controllable clutch just makes control more difficult to master.
C'mon now Norman, don't tease us. Share the techique.
Hi Bob
I was not trying to be cryptic or even to be appearing as profound as a Zen master. :wink:
I will try and encompass the other replies, since I last posted too (but without all the nested quotes).
First - I am no expert, no MSF instructor or anything like that. I found U turns on a conventional motorcycle difficult to master 100% of the time (by that I mean a successful controlled U turn without dabbing a foot down).
To be honest of itself the U turn manoeuvre while a good indicative measure of the riders control of their machine is fairly arbitrary because in the real world (particularly if you have a heavy and expensive machine) you probably would not attempt such a tight U turn as dictated in most training/test centres. However I believe it does help in refining your control of the bike and searching out your limits on your particular machine and in the practicing to improve this low speed manoeuvre it imbues confidence that will not be misplaced on the streets.
I practice in supermarket car parks (the non 24hr ones!). They are useful for the 'quietness', space and line markings for reference.
Here are my pointers.
1. Read the road surface - is there any camber (gradient) which will change the powering requirement during the manoeurvre.
2. Apply sufficient throttle to engage the clutch (+ a bit more) while dragging the rear brake (a tadge) - on the 400 this will also apply a very small amount of front as well but will not effect the handling.
3. Keep a steady throttle against that fixed amount of dragging brake to proceed at a comfortable pace.
4. Comfortable pace is a personal thing. For me it is brisk!
5. Observe if the manoeuvre is still safe to carry out (Lifesaver check).
6. Execute.
7. Initially, you can heave round on the handlebars almost to the stops (not quite but about 2/3).
8. As you do so - do an impression of the 'Exorcist' and use target fixation to advantage by fixing your sight line on the exit point but say 50 yds up the line (DO NOT LOOK DOWN).
9. Now as you swung the bars round this has a braking effect so you may need to reduce the brake drag to maintain speed. Also if you riding a gradient you may need to compensate either way.
10. Someone mentioned the lack of a petrol tank between your knees as being a disadvantage. Its different but does not hinder a tight U turn.
11. During the turn you can significantly reduce the 'turning circle' by getting off the centre of the tyres and leaning the bike over while using your bodyweight to counterbalance - do not try this until you are confident with the basic upright stance and U turn.
Above all and the most important thing, I believe, is the sheer volume of practice to get to know your machines characteristics and your own limitations . You can reduce the tedium and get the engine temp back down with a few sprints and emergency stops. One thing though while I practice emergency stops in both wet and dry conditions - I only U turn in the dry - I am just plain chicken! :wink:
So - I have now exposed my head above the parapet and stand ready for the flak! :wink: