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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
The thermostat , as I don't understand it, was incorporated to bring engine temps up more quickly to prevent fuel vapor from condensing on cold cylinder walls, stripping the oil off , and contributing to engine wear. This was in the 1920's. THANGS HAVE CHANGED 馃槵 .
So, now with different oil additives, gasoline additives, and changes in airflow , radiator size, antifreeze, etc; especially in a warm climate, is a thermostat redundant?
I do recall my father taking out and tossing a failed thermostat when I was young and never replacing it and we had no troubles. This however may have been due to pure poverty,( my parents had me cause they couldn''t afford a doll for my sisters to play with, and if I din't wake up "with something woody" I had no toy all day long).
 

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In a car probably needed for the heating so it warms up quicker, not so on a bike. Engine runs best when up to temp, or does it? Don't think you will miss it if it ends up in the bin. Can't help thinking the engine men at Suzuki might know a tad more than us and if not required why waste money on it? Bet them electric cars don't have one, lol.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I will be putting one back in, I jus dunno why. I do know the bike gets better gas mileage at 3 bars instead of 2 or lower, but that rarely happens here.
 

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I have seen reports that running some engines without a thermostat can cause erosion of the passage ways. Evidently the thermostat acts as a constrictor to slow down the rate of flow. Have no idea if that is true or not.
 

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The thermostsat isn鈥檛 just on/off so there is also some degree of regulation of the temps once it鈥檚 open. Reduces over/under cooling to maintain a reasonable operating temp.

in terms of the initial heating up, you want the oil etc to get to temp fairly quick so it鈥檚 going to help with that and minimise wear.

I can鈥檛 see how you would instantly kill your bike, just not ideal in the long term
 

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If the engine doesn't get up to optimum operating temperature, will the engine management "switch" the mixture from "cold start" to leaner "normal running" ?
Not just using more fuel, but possibly fouling plugs, and contaminating engine oil ?:unsure:
 

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Posts #4, #5 and #6 are all correct but #7 is also right.

The thermostst does slow the coolent down even when full open. The slower flow allows time for the coolent to wick the heat off the hot areas like cylinder walls and such. If the water mix coolent rushes past it will not have time to transfer that heat in the engine and in the radiator.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I ran it today to go get antifreeze and order thermostat, It will get up to temp, but it takes a lot longer and cools off to 2 bars at higher speed, this may be like dave said liquid doesn't have tome to absorb heat so it isn't cooling as well
 

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Thinking about it鈥
With a high flow speed/under-pressurised system you鈥檙e going to get more 鈥渃avitation鈥 and/or aeration where vapour bubbles form and then collapse causing erosion of metal.
So does using water without coolant.

Edit: spelling.
Wish I could remember the profs name we did those experiments with, he was really good.
 

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Any modern water cooled engine using 脿n ECM and engine sensors relies on engine temp. To go from "open loop" where cold start is programmed in to run acceptably till warm. When fully warm the engine management system goes into "closed loop" operation be where the engine is now fully controlled by it's electronics. No thermostat equals poor running, engine wear, and oil dilution, suggested to not ever do. The short story.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
so, now i see that temp is only half the game, my brother in law had a car that the block constantly got damage from water flow, not just his, all of that model/make, even with thermostat being used, something about cavitation and corners
 

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so, now i see that temp is only half the game, my brother in law had a car that the block constantly got damage from water flow, not just his, all of that model/make, even with thermostat being used, something about cavitation and corners
Most always from wrong or improper coolant type. And or improper maintainance with an aluminum engine. It'll eat them up like you can't imagine.
 

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Last fall I was getting two bars at best; cold weather hadn't even set in yet (north Texas). I replaced the thermostat, I got back to getting up to three bars quickly and the bike started running like it had been - GREAT as usual! So, if the thermostat is not working, just replace it. I had a bit of trouble getting one piece of tupperware removed - luckily there was enough flexibility in it to work around that problem. The thermostat for my 2016 650 was not expensive as I had feared, but very reasonably priced and didn't take a long time to get here. Just my thoughts from my experience.
 
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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Last fall I was getting two bars at best; cold weather hadn't even set in yet (north Texas). I replaced the thermostat, I got back to getting up to three bars quickly and the bike started running like it had been - GREAT as usual! So, if the thermostat is not working, just replace it. I had a bit of trouble getting one piece of tupperware removed - luckily there was enough flexibility in it to work around that problem. The thermostat for my 2016 650 was not expensive as I had feared, but very reasonably priced and didn't take a long time to get here. Just my thoughts from my experience.
running without one now I am pretty constant at 2 bars so definitely too cool , this kinda verifies that a thermostat is necessary for best performance! I'll still ride the burgy without one rather than ride the honda until I receieiieeeveie the one for the burgy
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
much less comfortable, much less economical, no storage, ride by wire throttle is rough in first and second , seat is low, more maintenance per mile
 

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Uh-oh...is someone in central FL about to get a good deal on a like-new Rebel?
 
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