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Discussion Starter #1
I recently bought the Kisan trailblazer 100hd unit and it didn't work properly ( it made my bulbs do what it was supposed to but very dimly). When I called the Kisan people, they said to take a reading on the brake wire before it splits in two. I got ( with ignition on but engine off) about 8.5 volts without holding brake lever and about 9.25 volts when I held it. With engine running, I got about 10.5 volts without applying brake and 11.5 when applying it. I don't seem to have any noticeable problems like battery running down, etc.. After a ride, I connect my battery tender jr. and after a moment or two it goes into blinking green mode, so that seems ok. What goes with those reading and are they y I can't get the Kisan unit working right?
 

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The wire colours at the stop lights are black/white (B/W) for ground and white/black (W/B) for the stop lights; between what wires (colour) did you observe those voltages?

With the brake lever NOT pulled back there should be 0.0V between the B/W and W/B wires, and battery voltage with the lever pulled...
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Its the white wire with the black stripe. This wire splits to go to each of the 2 brake light bulbs and its the wire that makes the brake light bulbs brighter when the brakes are applied. I attach the red wire from my voltmeter to this and I attach the black wire from my voltmeter to ground.
 

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tomfelock said:
..... and I attach the black wire from my voltmeter to ground.
Make sure that you are checking voltages to the Ground WIRE...
not to someplace on the chassis.....chassis is Not ground....
even though there is a 'grounding' wire connected between
the engine & the frame.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
duster, the 100 hd hooks up as follows. it has 3 connecting points two are for the hot wire in and out. the third is to connect a short wire provided by kit to it and to a chassis ground. so..... I connected my negative to that same chassis ground point. is that correct? ( I think it is)
 

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It is always better to hook up to "Battery" ground instead of "chassis" ground on Motorcycles, ATV's, Snowmobiles, Trailers, etc.
Chassis ground can be somewhat flakey or "Floating" and not a true negative voltage ground on such animals.
 

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tomfelock said:
duster, the 100 hd hooks up as follows. it has 3 connecting points two are for the hot wire in and out. the third is to connect a short wire provided by kit to it and to a chassis ground. so..... I connected my negative to that same chassis ground point. is that correct? ( I think it is)
As Duster stated the chassis on the 400 (and many/most modern motorcycles) is not considered a signal or power "ground". If you look at the wiring diagram you will see that every device requiring a solid and reliable ground connection--including the stop lights--has a dedicated ground wire, B/W in colour, throughout the scoot.

So the "ground" of the 100HD needs to be connected to the B/W wire, and a chassis ground also if you like, however the B/W wire is the real "ground" for the stop lamps. The 100HD will behave oddly if it is not connected to the chassis as a grounding source as there will likely be a voltage differential between the chassis and B/W wire. You can check that with your voltmeter, just connect one lead to the B/W wire and another to the chassis ground you have been using...
 

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Discussion Starter #8
the directions said it (the 100hd unit) must be grounded to a chassis ground, not a wire ground, but I tried connecting it to the battery post to no avail also.
 
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