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Discussion Starter #1
Hello all. I've read the other posts and one came close (but he found that to be a fuse and problem was solved).

My dilemma is that today I discovered that I have NO low beam lights (they worked Friday).
(a) I have checked bulbs (okay), and changed bulbs (to be sure).
(b) Checked fuses in "glove box" and also changed (again to be sure)
(c) Checked Hi/Lo switch function with voltmeter and also by physically jumping the wires.
(d) check start button to confirm it IS making contact (high beams work and do blink off when switch is activated, back on when released)
(e) Measured voltage at switch, at fuses, and at bulb connector.

When measuring voltages I had (near) full battery potential indicated at all points UNTIL I plug in one of the bulbs. At that time voltage dives to zip, zero, nada, zilch. I even turned the bulb around and used a jumper so that there could be no possibility of high-beam interference with the measurement.

I read that the switch can be a potential area of fault but I jumped that connection directly and still no low beam.

Any thoughts ????

THANKS - D
 

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My suggestion is to check for voltage drop to find the problem or use a test light. You have voltage but no current it appears. For proper testing make sure the lights are connected. With the voltmeter connect the positive lead to the battery positive and use the negative lead to test with starting at the headlamp connector back through the circuit in order. At the headlamp connector you will see voltage and when you get just past the problem the voltmeter will drop to almost nothing. You can use the same procedure with a test light until the test light illuminates brightly. It seems more likely its the starter switch contacts though.
 

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MJR said:
You can use the same procedure with a test light until the test light illuminates brightly.
Sorry, when the clip lead end is connected to the negative battery terminal. If you have the clip lead connected to the positive then the light would go out just past the problem.

My '09 is having the issue with poor starter switch connection and I have to wiggle it to get the lights on after the switch is released, I'll get around to taking her apart and fixing it one of these days. :D
 

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Looking at the diagram (I hate single page complete wiring diagrams) the flow is battery-main fuse-ignition switch-starter switch-dimmer switch-headlamps.
 

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MJR said:
Looking at the diagram the flow is battery-main fuse-ignition switch-starter switch-dimmer switch-headlamps.
Looking at the diagram the flow is battery-main fuse-ignition switch-starter switch-dimmer switch-Hi/Low fuses-headlamps
 

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You checked your fuse for the lights with a meter? You can have a fuse develop a high resistance problem or be open and still appear to be good. If you don't know how to check the resistance on a fuse, try putting a new fuse in place of the old one.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Okay guys -- It's update time !!!

Took voltage drops this eve at the dimmer switch and Hi/Low fuses (unfortunately not enough time to tear down Tupperware and pursue deeper).
On low position had voltage (~12.2) at both center wire and low beam wire (white). Had ZERO voltage on either side of low fuse.
In comparison when in the HIGH position I measured voltage (~10.6) at the center (common) wire and high beam wire. Lower voltage was measured due to the draw down from the high beams actually being illuminated. Also measured roughly the same voltages at the high fuse on both sides.

So... I THINK that the white wire has either come loose from the harness/switch assy. connector block -OR- that the wire has broken.
Now all I have to do is find WHERE that connector is hiding in order to verify or falsify my "guesstimation".

Any comments or inputs ?

D
 

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If you have voltage at the light and not the fuse it sounds like a problem on the white wire. I'd start by probing the wire on either end just to make sure the problem isn't at a crimped terminal end at the light connector or fuse box. You could always just bypass the harness with a wire to verify it works then in the mean time.

Normally to get at that part of the wiring one would need to pull the lower rocker panels, nose trim, the front nose assembly off, and possibly the air box depending on where the problem is.
 

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Wow, if this turns out to be a wiring harness problem I hope is not a common problem. In over 40 years of riding I only ran into wiring harness problems on British motorcycles way back when. Never again. I am following these problems with attention...
 
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