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Discussion Starter #1
If I start riding after the bike has had a rest, the acceleration (throttle) is smooth. But after a few minutes in, the throttle is un-responsive and jerky/jumpy.

It used to clear up after hitting 3000 revs, but now it sometimes seems to require 4000 revs.

The problem is particularly noticeable after idling, such as at traffic lights. (If I am idling on an uphill incline, it is especially hard to get the bike moving.)

On other occasions when I am idling, as the revs gradually die down, the engine will cut out completely and I have to hit the electric ignition button (just near the accelerator throttle) to get going again.

Does anyone have any idea what might be causing this problem? Could be spark plugs or fuel injection?
 

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Huh, any further info? What have you checked?
Do you use a cloth/oiled air filter? .
Have ya double checked to make sure the air intake is snug?
When's the last time you checked / changed the plugs?
Maybe check the idle screw & make sure it hasn't backed out or something? It'd be weird, but the idle was mechanical until 2007, & I'm kinda reaching until someone better shows up.
 

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As Tromper says check the usual culprits first. Clean air filter good spark plugs and unless you know how long they have been in change them. What year is the bike as idle is generally factory set. Make sure all the hoses to the air box and pair valve are on and not split. Check for any fault codes. Do you have a manual if not get one. Use the search box and Ledudes web pages for information. If you ask questions be precise and provide as much info as possible so we dont have to second guess.
 

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hard to tell with certainty what may be causing your issues, could be one the following

  • pps failing
  • clutch wearing out
  • worn out CVT belt
  • CVT component failure, primary pulley adapter etc..
you will have to do some investigating to find the source

if you are taking off from a stand still and the engine doesn't engage right away and you have
to compensate by opening and closing the throttle, it is a very good chance that you have a cvt
issue which is slipping ca n also be the clutch or the PPS

PPS Diagnosis / Replacemnt

Clutch Rebuild Part 1

Clutch Rebuild Part 2

CVT Repairs
 

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The filter question is a bit more than that actually.
As noted in a few places here the way the Burger air filter is setup if you over oil a cloth filter you run the risk of oiling your MAF.
This can cause running weirdness; although I'm not sure to what extent TBH, just spitball'n since we really need a bit more data.
Not hard to fix usually, just clean it..but getting to it to clean it is a bit of a PITA.

... Clean air filter...
 

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Another cause would be the stick coils. When they are under load and going faulty they do make the bike miss and the cylinders cut in and out. However as the Ledude says you need to do a fault finding excercise and try and narrow it down as currently there is little to go on and we are just guessing
 

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If I start riding after the bike has had a rest, the acceleration (throttle) is smooth. But after a few minutes in, the throttle is un-responsive and jerky/jumpy.

It used to clear up after hitting 3000 revs, but now it sometimes seems to require 4000 revs.

The problem is particularly noticeable after idling, such as at traffic lights. (If I am idling on an uphill incline, it is especially hard to get the bike moving.)

On other occasions when I am idling, as the revs gradually die down, the engine will cut out completely and I have to hit the electric ignition button (just near the accelerator throttle) to get going again.

Does anyone have any idea what might be causing this problem? Could be spark plugs or fuel injection?
Drop technology fuel injection cleaner in for two tanks of gas. If that doesn't work change your plugs. Then air and cvt filters. Adjust your idle speed screw. If all that doesn't work I'm sorry take it in.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Thanks for the answers so far. I really appreciate it. Can a Suzuki-authorized repair shop diagnose the fault by plugging the bike into an diagnostic computer? I've heard something to that effect, but I'm not sure how far a computer can go in terms of pin-pointing the fault.

I've also had trouble finding a repairer with the correct Burgman 650 plug or even a diagnostic computer, for that matter. Perhaps they're not cheap, so smaller workshops just don't have them?
 

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Small bit of wire or a paper clip is all you need to bring up any fault codes. Do a search on here
 

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Just cuz.
Or this official tool.

Me...I'm fussy, & prefer a specific tool if it's affordable, available and I'm not in a real hurry, but, yup, a paperclip can be used as a jumper. Done that more than a couple times, just be real careful that you're jumping the right points.
 
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