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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Took me awhile to do it but now that i'm home for awhile I can sit down and post stuff.

Projector Design


First thing before tearing into anything is to get your components lined out. You are going to want to look for a projector with an open chassis design to minimize contained heat within the assembly. This will help to increase the life of the shutter solenoid and bulb electrodes. The fitment style has to be for an h4 bulb base as that is what our burgs have for the headlights. Unless you have an 07' 400 then you'll have to get both an h7 and an h4 projector if you haven't swapped reflectors for dual beams. See -> viewtopic.php?p=278333#p278333

An example of an open chassis style would be this one here -> http://www.ebay.com/itm/160855984970?ss ... 1423.l2649

Projector Bulb Type

Also, choose a projector with a readily available bulb type for the projector itself. This way you always know that you'll be able to find a bulb if one should go out or you wish to change to a different color temperature. Here's a list of common bulb types for the aftermarket projection units.

If it isn't listed then ask if it's one of these. If they can't give you an answer or say it's proprietary then move on to another unit.

Projector Mounts
There are two types of mounts I've come across that hold the projector to the back of the reflector that I'll label lock ring and base plate as follows.


The lock ring type does what the name implies. You slip in the projector through the existing bulb hole and slide the lock ring onto the back of the projector and into the existing bulb slots. There's a little tab that fits in a grove on the projector so that when the retaining nut is secured the projector stays in place and does not rotate. It's a secure fit but when making sure the horizontal alignment of the beam pattern is level it can be a bit tedious as you will have to grind off a little bit of the sides of the tabs of the lock ring to get the pattern level.

The baseplate type makes for a much simpler install and alignment as you just trun the projector until the beam pattern is level and tighten down. Though easier, this design may be prone to alignment drift over time from road bumps and is tricky to keep it tight while turning it back into alignment post-install.

Once you've found one with the characteristics you want it's gotta be small enough to fit. The maximum length you have to work with is 10.5 cm or around 4 1/8" from the back of the reflector to the front of the headlight. Too long and you'll never get it the headlight sealed again.

Additional Components

The only thing now is just to get the electrical components and bulbs themselves if the projectors don't come as a whole kit with ballasts and bulbs. Ebay also has many of the following components as well. You'll need two of each component from any vendor you choose for each projector. Note, on the 07' 400 you will have to wire tap the low beam side harness bulb connector wires onto the high beam's wires in order to get high beam function for both sides.

VVME 35W slim ballast -> http://www.vvme.com/popup-product-info? ... ucts_id=17
VVME single beam hid bulb -> http://www.vvme.com/hid-headlights/hid- ... -hid-bulbs
VVME H4 Bi-Xenon wiring Harness -> http://www.vvme.com/hid-headlights/hid- ... am-hid-kit

DDM Tuning Ballast and bulb kit -> http://www.ddmtuning.com/Products/DDM-H ... 35W-or-55W
DDM Tuning H4 Hi/Lo wiring harness -> http://www.ddmtuning.com/Products/High-Low-Harness

Installation

Now comes the fun part of removing and modding the headlights.

Headlight Separation

For the 650's follow LeDude's constructables for the 03'-12' model years located here -> https://docs.google.com/document/pub?id ... _jVwFOLwuo

For the 07+ model years see the knowledgebase under front fairing and side panels -> http://burgmanusa.com/bkb/400+b+Body+Panels-Tupperware

Once you get the headlights removed you'll need to separate them for installation. Using your household oven, turn it on to bake at 185F(175 will work though 185 softens the adhesive even more). Find a few small wood blocks and soak them in water while the oven is heating. The metal rack of your oven will melt the plastic with direct contact so the wet wood blocks will remain cool while heating the light assembly. Once the oven has reached temperature, adjust the height of the rack so that the headlight does not touch any part of the interior surface and place the wood blocks on the rack so it supports the headlamp securely. Leave the headlamp in the oven for 15min then remove both it and the wood blocks.

You'll be needing some thick leather gloves or hot mits to handle the headlamp during disassembly and a small flat head screwdriver to pry open the tabs around the perimeter of the headlight while pulling it open. Mitch Bergsma has a video of the procedure though we used slightly different methods. ->

Once you get the headlight apart let it cool further for a bit before mounting the projector inside. Once cool, proceed to mounting the projector. Repeat for the other side. Another Video of Mitch's showing a projector with lock ring style mount ->

To Aim the projectors so the beam pattern is level, place the Headlight halves with the projectors mounted back into the front leg shield and remount the leg shield temporarily after running electrical connections in the following section.

Wiring

You'll need 2, 10 to 12 guage wires ran directly from the batt to supply the HID ballasts the power for startup. So you'll need a pair of wire crimpers/strippers, 10 or 12 guage ring terminals, wire, inline 40 (or whatever the ballasts are rated at x2) amp fuse, and 10 or 12 guage butt connectors for the main power. You'll need a soldering iron and some heat shrink tubing to twist the two positives from the HID wire harnesses together and solder as well as the grounds to be crimped into the main lines you run from the batt. Heat shrink to insulate.

Running the wires for the ballasts is the hardest run to make. For the 400's it's done easiest with the front fairing off. For the 650's, removing the battery, battery tray, maintenance cover, upper dash, and handlebar covers are needed as the wire needs ran through a hole in the bottom left of the battery area out along the upper frame member on the left side to exit out of the hole between the fuse box compartment and glovebox. You will need some zip ties for securing wires to the frame.

On the positive side you'll first want to cut a small length of wire to fit the ring terminal onto for the batt, then crimp it onto one side of the 40A fuse holder. Then, crimp on a wire about 6-8ft long onto the other end of the fuse holder and make the first run. All you'll need is the long length of wire and ring terminal for the negative.

Locate a spot to mount each ballast leaving room to make your connections from your main leads to the harnesses. Make the connections then plug in the power plugs on the harness into each ballast, then plug in the stock bulb connectors to the connectors in the harness then plug in the connectors for the projector solenoid. If you purchased mismatched components then you may have to cut the connectors off for the solenoid and solder and heat shrink them directly.

Once the electrical connections are made, reinstall the batt if it needed removed and screw the HID power wires onto the corresponding battery terminals. Then reinstall the front fairing again and hook up the HID bulbs to the ballast output wires. Power up the HIDS and proceed to leveling the projectors based on mount type until it matches photo below. See above for mount type description.



Once you have the projectors leveled, remove the front fairing again and remove the headlights once more. Making sure to clean the interior chrome surfaces thouroughly inside the headlight. If there isn't enough adhesive left in the headlight channels after separating them then there is usually a tube of headlight sealant you can use that comes with the projectors. Just fill the channels, replace cover and clamp overnight to reseal. If there is, place the front covers back onto the headlights without pushing them on and heat up the oven again as well as soaking the wood blocks in water. Place headlights in for same amount of time at same temp. When done, pull headlamps out of oven and press the front covers back into the channels. You May have to hold some areas down while the headlight cools to ensure it stays put.



Once they are together again you can reassemble the front fairing once more and proceed with vertical and horizontal adjustments to ensure you are not blinding oncoming drivers. Once finished with aiming, put the rest back together and all done.





Mitch's videos of Projectors
http://www.youtube.com/user/micbergsma/search?query=projector

More photos from Mitch
http://burgmanusa.com/gallery/micbergsm ... rojectors/

More from rs24sport
viewtopic.php?p=437738#p437738
 

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Nice presentation!!! Very detailed and professional. :thumbup: Thank you very much for the info.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks, still have to bring over some wiring diagrams to accompany the text yet so will get that done shortly.
 

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wow... good job Sean :thumbup:
 

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I've just made the first step towards HID projector retrofit by buying a pair of headlights for left-hand-drive use, which will be useless to me as-is, but irrelevant when HID-projectors are fitted into them.

I can then save my original headlights for re-use if I get busted for the HID's and need to get an inspection.

I like to plan an escape route ahead, which is why I also bought a second rear rim for my ongoing darkside experiment.

The headlights are one side H4 the other H7, and I find the high beam sadly lacking, but maybe it wont be a problem when I fit HID's ? I'm quite sure it wouldn't be a problem to fit bi-xenon in both, but the fewer mowing parts, the less to break.
 

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The projector kit was delivered by FedEx today - one week turnaround.
Flytexpress.com track and trace ended when they left China, but the customs papers with the FedEx tracking no. were e-mailed to my place of work early this morning and the packet arrived at noon.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Let us know how it goes. The more experiences on the subject the better.
 

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Thanks for the attention. I sure hope that they will fit. I'm going to practice taking a set of old Toyota headlights apart before tackling the Burgman headlights.
 

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I bought an HID kit from www.socalmotogear.com and fit right in....also come with the required ballasts It is plug n play..............
 

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I bought an HID kit from www.socalmotogear.com and fit right in....also come with the required ballasts It is plug n play..............
Interesting- How do the projectors fold out after you push them throught the tiny bulb hole? Like you build a ship in a bottle?

Maybe you're aiming (pun intended) to create more customers for your profession as an eye doctor, as they get blinded by the random rays of your plug-and-play HID-BULB kit.

This thread is about retrofitting HID-projectors, which require separating the headlight assy.
 

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Interesting- How do the projectors fold out after you push them throught the tiny bulb hole? Like you build a ship in a bottle?

Maybe you're aiming (pun intended) to create more customers for your profession as an eye doctor, as they get blinded by the random rays of your plug-and-play HID-BULB kit.

This thread is about retrofitting HID-projectors, which require separating the headlight assy.
Actually....I did not install them on my 400 Burgman but my GL1800 Goldwing........ which has an electric motor for adjusting the headlamps up & down...........
 

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This link explains the difference between fitting HID bulbs in place of your halogen bulbs and using projectors made for HID-bulbs.
http://xtremerevolution.net/are-hid-kits-legal-or-safe/
GOOD & THANKS...... BUT your information which you refer to is 100% wrong as the NHSTA..has not yet even made up their minds as to really actually enforce any HID conversion regulations for on-road vehicles of ANY type..and that is since 2009.........!!

So many car, truck and motorcycle owners have already made a conversion from halogen to HID's...that the police are going to have a very tough time of enforcing a non-existent law.
 

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I was referring to the glaring of others.
The Burgman 650 reflectors have a lousy pattern with halogen, it would be even worse with HID's.
If it had had standard size 5-3/4" round headlights, I would have bought brand-name reflectors with halogen bulbs.
If you get stopped by the police here, they like to throw anything they can at you, including illegal HID's
 
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