Suzuki Burgman USA Forum banner

1 - 17 of 17 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
94 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hi

Still waiting for my Oxford heated grips and Hella "SuperTone" horns to arrive so I thought I'd get ready for the extra power needs. Grounding points will be wherever I can find suitable metal. I'll run a 20A in the main holder by the battery and 15A or maybe I can get by with 10A in the fuse panel. The main fuse lead is 12AWG (couldn't find 10AWG) and the main run IS 10AWG covered in 1/4" sheathing and tie-wrapped to the frame tubes in front of and a bit below the seat hinge and then down the main frame tubes as shown. Hope it works! :D

(Yes, the nuts are into the self-lock...a bit short but they won't come loose.)

Ed








 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,834 Posts
This is on 2013 650 ?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,834 Posts
Congratulation, that very beautiful bike.

My colour also.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,834 Posts
From good picture you provide, me guess Nelson-Rigg CL-850 saddle bag not fit safely because higher exhaust now.

Not sure GIVI side case will fit because new exhaust that go higher.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
11,296 Posts
I would recommend you achieve a reliable and consistent ground by running a line back from your distribution box to the battery -ve.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
94 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
I would recommend you achieve a reliable and consistent ground by running a line back from your distribution box to the battery -ve.
Great Scott! That will take an extra 15 minutes! What are you thinking man?! :D

Ed
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
11,296 Posts
.....and it will be the best 15 minutes work you have invested.:cool:

BTW what is the picture with the two nuts purporting to show? (apart from the nuts). Can you give me context/purpose?
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,008 Posts
Hi

Still waiting for my Oxford heated grips and Hella "SuperTone" horns to arrive so I thought I'd get ready for the extra power needs. Grounding points will be wherever I can find suitable metal. I'll run a 20A in the main holder by the battery and 15A or maybe I can get by with 10A in the fuse panel. The main fuse lead is 12AWG (couldn't find 10AWG) and the main run IS 10AWG covered in 1/4" sheathing and tie-wrapped to the frame tubes in front of and a bit below the seat hinge and then down the main frame tubes as shown. Hope it works! :D

(Yes, the nuts are into the self-lock...a bit short but they won't come loose.)

Ed

Does the tunnel cover pull off after you remove the screw in the maintenance panel on the left side of the tunnel? Do you pull it in one direction?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
94 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
Hi Roy,

That was quite the first tupperware experience. I abandoned my first attempt for fear of "tearing" or breaking the panel. The screw in the maintenance panel is the only one. There are (I believe) four locking type tabs on the panel and the rest are merely smooth tabs. The four lockers are left and right of center on both the top and rear seams, none on the sides. I finally succeded by pulling out the LH side as far as I could and slipping my hand up to the top seam and pull down on the top left tab while pushing outward on the tab itself. Once I popped the first tab the rest got easier. Now that the cover has been off a couple times it is much easier.
Ed
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
94 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
what is the picture with the two nuts purporting to show?
Sorry, I guess some context would be helpful. They merely show the attaching method for the fuse box...two holes drilled through the LH glove box wall. A couple screws running through the fuse box and wall, secured by the two nuts. I suppose the photo was unnecessary
Ed
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,008 Posts
Thanks for the info. I got the left upper corner loose, but stopped. I will take your method tomorrow.
 
1 - 17 of 17 Posts
Top