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With a title and the original key number the legal owner should be able to order the special "fat key" with the special built in magnetic end to open the ignition shutter cover.
 
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you got that right!

I bought a used 400...the original owner had lost one of the fat keys...this makes me very nervous about using the shutter as I have only one working key.
Bottom line...the kit to replace all the locks that includes two fat heads runs $192...add labor and the cost of recovering from a lost key will be over $300 ...
You could go less and just do the ignition components, but I would like to have one key that works everything....

Paul
 

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You can get any key making place to copy your key and it will work the ignition etc. I did this and use this un-magnetic type key for daily riding. I use the original key to lock and unlock the ignition security device when I feel it necessary.

One drawback is the key I have was too short. So operating the seat release wasn't working because it didn't allow me to push in and turn. Easily fixed with a hack saw and all is good. I do keep the original key tied to a chord (just like little kiddie winter gloves) in my breast pocket just in case I loose the clone.
 

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Here's how I dealt with the key problem with my new car. This car is a factory program '05 that came with only one "remote fat key".

I finally decide on buying a non-remote fat key (has the chip to operate the ignition) which is much cheaper than the remote key. This key is hidden inside the car.

I had four flat keys made. One is my wallet, one on my wife's keychain (she doesn't drive), one in my keycase, and one in the house. In an emergency or lost key situation a flat key will get us into the car and the fat non-remote key will operate the ignition.

This was about 1/3rd the cost of a new "remote" key.
 

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With a title and the original key number the legal owner should be able to order the special "fat key" with the special built in magnetic end to open the ignition shutter cover.
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Bob...no can do....Paul is right! You have to buy the whole ignition kit. My wife just bought a Suzuki Corporate 400S and it came with only one fat key. She wanted a second one...dealer tried and came back with the kit price. I told them to get back to the guy riding the 400 and find the 2nd key....they did...so we're pleased with our dealer and Suzuki. My '06 Exec arrives in Feb....with 2 keys I hope!

Don
 

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Burgman Keys

My locksmith had key blanks for Suzuki. Shave wasn't long enough until I had him grind about 3/8th inch off the wide portion at the top. Key is fully functional. I had this made as a "spare" to keep in my wallet. I've been stuck places before with no key... and it sucks! Of course this key will not close the "door" over the key hole... but in Arizona we don't use it anyway.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Yes, Kootie, but you (or anyone else who wants to play with it) don't need the special key to CLOSE the door....only to OPEN it. Any similar Suzuki key or even a wide screwdriver can CLOSE the ignition door. What happens if you're in a store and some DA fiddles with your door and closes it and all you have is a flat key?

That's my situation. I don't have but one fat key and to avoid loosing it I leave it at home as an emergency fix and carry a flat replacement key on my key ring and an identical one in my wallet. I live in constant fear that I'll return to my bike someday and find the ignition door closed.

I wish they'd put that ignition key door where the sun doesn't shine. Even if I had both of mine I still wouldn't want to carry that ugly fat thing. It's too big.
 

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seat release on 650

I have noticed that I have a hard time getting the seat to to open at times. Does anyone have any sugestions to be able to open it in the event it realy gets totally stuck and can anyone answer why I have a problem. Oh By the way I just got the scoot and it is a 04 with only 1100 miles .
thanks
Paul
 

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Paul,

The seat will "stick" if you have to much in the trunk. If this happens press down on the back of the seat over the latch while turning the key to release the trunk. It should pop open. You may also want to search the forum for trunk release. There are instructions for creating a manual release. I think there may be pictures in the gallery as well.

Hope that helps.

Dee
 

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keys should be easier to get

Keys should be easier to get from Suzuki, especially if you have the original and just need an spare. JC
 

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Well gentlemen (and ladies) my scooter came with only two keys and I promptly misplaced one of them. :shock:

I ordered a blank from the local dealer and then discovered it did not come with the 'fat key bob'. Considering it's price, $22us, it should have, but didn't. :x

I then went back to my selling dealership (Simi Valley Cycles) and ordered 'SU PHP SHUTTER, STEERIN - part number 137155-10G00'. This is the shtter assembley for the the lock and comes with four (4) of the fat key bob assemblies, but not with the key blanks (ought to - lists for $107us). :twisted:

Sometime this week I will open up the dash and replace the shutter assembley with the new one and swap out the one key bob, have two more keys made for $3.50us at the local locksmith (ILCO #X241-Suz18) and will have a grand total of four keys for the burg. :D

If you think this is frustrating wait until I tell you what you need to do to get an ignition key for an 06 Honda Ridgeline.....no wrong board.

Gary
 

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Wes, one of the moderators, has a good solution to this. He has removed the "Fat End" of his key(s), and keeps it in a safe place.
Either in his wallet or something.
You don't really need that part unless you need to open the key shutter.

It is ridiculous that you have to pay $20 for a key blank at the dealer.
Heck, even $5 is too much considering most ILCO keys are only a buck or two.

I suppose in addition to the cost of the blank, the dealer would charge extra to actually cut the key?

For those wanting a Suzuki blank, Oneida Suzuki sells them for under $12, but you'd have to pay shipping too. That may nuke out any savings over getting one locally.
 

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Just a warning: Check with your local locksmith to be sure he will cut a steel blank.

All of the locals I checked with only cut brass blanks. I had a couple made and had to modify them to get them to open the seat.

With use the key began to twist at its neck and I was afraid it would break off.

I used that key, along with a radio shack knob, to open the gas cap.

The other new brass key I keep in the wallet as a spare. It would work in an emergency, just not every day.

For the fat key I purchased a key chain that has two rings joined by a quick disconnect. It cost $2 at the local True Value hardware store. I keep the fat key and the key to the Givi V46 on one side of the chain and all other keys on the second part of the chain.

The key that opens the Givi V46 also opens the Givi side cases. You can purchase a set of Givi locks in a keyed alike set with three or five locks.

While riding I just have two keys out. I have the other half of the chain in my pocket where I don't have to worry about loosing them. I can always clip them back together.

Gary
 

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I just went through the exercise of getting a spare key. Pretty easy as long as you don't need the fat part, so--- take the fat key and hide it by using some velcro inside the locking glove box. Those fat keys are a PITA anyway and I use the flat version for all my runs. If some jerk plays games with the switch cover and locks you out, all you need to do is open the glove box and retrieve the fat key and be on your merry way.
 

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Re: Inability to order spare "fat keys" SO?

HEADS UP: You can remove the little magnetic pins from the shutter and just spring load it. The bad guys won't know the difference unless you just have to tell. This is definitely a consideration if you are currently in a 12 step program or subject to lapses in judgment.

The reason you have to spend so much $ is that the sequence of the N/S polarities on the shutter and key(s) have to be complimentary. They be born together or still born. Or, as mentioned above, spayed and neutered works too.
 

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the simplest fix would be to use a drop of super glue after the shutter is open and forget about it. if it gets stolen, i am fully insured. i hate the shutter.
 

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Just bought a 2006 650 with 1650 miles on it. First scooter. Naturally it only had one key. Haven't been to a bike dealer in years and was surprised to learn that all they could get were the metal key blanks. The parts guy even said that he did not know of any aftermarket keyblanks that would work so I went ahead an purchased two of them. While I was waiting for them to come in I came across this website and about fell of my chair when I saw a post from one of the members listing an ILCO key that would work. He even had pictures of the keys in question!!!! With that info I ran right down to my local True Value store and lo-and-behold there was the key---- an ILCO#X241 SUZ18. At first the "key" guy said that he was not aware of any keys that would work on a scooter so with the picture in hand both of us started looking and hanging right in front of us were a whole bunch of X241 keys. It cost me a whole $6.00 for both compared with the $45.00 I paid for the two Suzuki blanks. Just as you described the new ILCO was too short to activate the seat lock. With my el-cheapo 6 inch grinder I took off just a hair over a 1/16th and now I have spares all over the place. One thing though are you all sure that the little gizmo piece off the end of the plastic key head is magnetic?
 

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Yes, the shutter lock head is magnetic. It has a combo of 4 tiny magnets which activate the tumblers to open and close the shutter. 95% of the time mine is parked in a secure location so I seldom use it. If you have the shutter locked and loose both original keys then you will have to replace the entire system along with new keys. It costs over $150, so hang on to at least one key and the code tag. Use the new Ilco blanks for day to day stuff if you don't need to use the shutter.
 
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