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Discussion Starter #1
So I'm down to trying to get the throttle body off, won't budge! LeDude's videos are priceless, but don't show what to do between loosening the clamps and getting it loose. Been working on friends 07 for 2 months, hope to drop the engine today, but need to get past this throttle body issue. Any idea where to pry, wiggle?? :|
 

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use a small pry bar at the corners, left / right, to get it out... check the DIY, it has more detailed pics and instructions....
don't force it,,, just give it repeated nudges on either side and it will come out... took me three tries until I got it ...

Removing the throttle assembly can be a bit tricky. It would not come loose freely on my std. burgman 650 with just pure raw hand power. In the end I had to resort to a small pry bar to lever it out by putting some pressure on a solid surface at one end and using the frame as a support surface. Once I was able to loosen one end, the other end just popped out by itself.
 

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They are a tight fit. There is a grove and ridge system in them to help with sealing. You have to get the ridge dislodged from the groove before they will pull out. As LeDude said, a little persuasion with a pry bar can help you get them started out.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
It happened just as you oth said it would, eventually it popped up, next weekend I'll lift the frame. I'm wondering if it would be possible to lift the frame just high enough to allow access to the CVT, it would make it much easier with all the various connectors & caple routing. If I use two 30" trailer jacks I could lift and support the frame.

Your thoughts?
 

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There have been post about folks doing it that way so yes it is possible. If I ever have to do mine again I will probably give it a try. I would say keep a close eye on all the wires and other connections you don't take loose to make sure none of them get pulled to tight when you raise the bike. One I would keep real close watch on is the speed sensor wire to the final drive. In fact I would probably just go ahead and disconnect that one to be safe.
 

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Shoe said:
It happened just as you oth said it would, eventually it popped up, next weekend I'll lift the frame. I'm wondering if it would be possible to lift the frame just high enough to allow access to the CVT, it would make it much easier with all the various connectors & caple routing. If I use two 30" trailer jacks I could lift and support the frame.

Your thoughts?
The frame can't just be lifted up because of the lower front frame crossbar. It has to be rotated forward and moved foward to clear. Personally I'd rather take the time and disconnect those things instead of risking breaking them. Here's some photos.

My '03


My '05


My '06
 

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A plasma cutter, a TIG-welder and a lathe + some fabricating, and the obstructing frame tube would be detachable, like on some Honda and Guzzi models.

On the Guzzis, it's made of solid bars inserted into the tubes, and milled to a half circle where they are joined by a one or two bolts.

Maybe brazing would be better.

Done properly, no-one could tell it wasn't made like that from the factory, except it would look better than the sloppy factory weld seams.
 

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Erik that's something thing I had hoped Suzuki would do on the 2013 redesign.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I like to see those photos, never have been able to successfully put photos in a message - or in the gallery for that matter.
I wasn't planning on removing the fuel tank as I had not seen that step in any of the various instructions I've seen, I can imagine that it says to do that in the manual, then again the manual says to take the fairing off to change a bulb.

I like the frame cutting idea, but it seems that I'd want to do that with the engine removed. To me it seems unlikely that I'd be removing the CVT more than once in the life of the bike. I'd rather focus on other things to speed the process along. I'd like to start doing these on the side for frustrated 650 owners who either want to do some of the labor or want to save $1000 off what a shop would charge for the same service.

I'm following LeDudes recipe for making my own CVT guides, if the are easy enough to make, I'll make a few sets as they are impossible to find, and cost too much... Just silly expensive.

Shoe
 

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No need to remove the gas tank.

The big advantage to having that frame section removable is that it would make it more practical to pull the CVT to examine it for possible wear issues. Thus you could do preventive maintenance on it and maybe head off a major failure.
 

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The thread size/pitch for the CVT guides is 10x1.25mm and the bolts I found were 120mm long which would be the minimum length. If you were going to make tools it would be better to use Buffalo's idea he bought a 3' length of 5/16” steel rod cut into sections and threaded one end with a 10x1.25mm die for use in place of the factory CVT guide tools. You can also buy the engine bolts usually on eBay from someone parting a 650 out and cut them down as LeDude did.
 

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The idea of cutting the frame is do-able but it would need to be a TRI section where three tubes meet that are in the way.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Ledude writes to use 3/8 rod for this, I ordered 3/8 - which is it, 5/16 or 3/8?

MJR said:
The thread size/pitch for the CVT guides is 10x1.25mm and the bolts I found were 120mm long which would be the minimum length. If you were going to make tools it would be better to use Buffalo's idea he bought a 3' length of 5/16” steel rod cut into sections and threaded one end with a 10x1.25mm die for use in place of the factory CVT guide tools. You can also buy the engine bolts usually on eBay from someone parting a 650 out and cut them down as LeDude did.
 

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3/8 is the correct size. What I originally report said 5/16 because that is the way the place where I bought it had it labeled. I didn't buy it because of the way it was labeled. I bought it because it most closely matched the metric transmission mounting bolt I took with me to compare. Turns out when I measured it it after LeDude questioned the size it measured 3/8 so it was mislabeled.
 

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MJR said:
The thread size/pitch for the CVT guides is 10x1.25mm and the bolts I found were 120mm long which would be the minimum length. If you were going to make tools it would be better to use Buffalo's idea he bought a 3' length of 5/16” steel rod cut into sections and threaded one end with a 10x1.25mm die for use in place of the factory CVT guide tools. You can also buy the engine bolts usually on eBay from someone parting a 650 out and cut them down as LeDude did.
When I removed and installed the CVT assembly, I used the 3 existing long motor mount bolts as guides. I did not cut the heads off the bolts. I used a small floor jack to support the CVT and align it to screw in the bolts. I had no problems using the uncut motor mounting bolts.
 

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Shoe said:
Ledude writes to use 3/8 rod for this, I ordered 3/8 - which is it, 5/16 or 3/8?
if you are talking about making your own CVT Guides, the 3/8 is the closest thing to a 10 mm rod that you can
find in most hardware stores.



I did make a new set out of old engine mount bolts that worked a lot better and threaded into the frame flawlessly



You can use the existing engine mount bolts if you don't want to make your own guides, it just takes a bit more effort to get the CVT Assembly off
and back on.

I highly recommend the guides, makes for easy removal and installation of the CVT Assembly.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Thanks for the followup on this, I really want to have everything I need for this as I expect and even want to do this all again.. Just ordered my contact cleaner, dielectric grease, molly paste, ultra grey via amazon. Was at Harbor Freight last night, picked up a 14" pipe wrench, metric tap&die, & bearing puller.

In other news I'm having a bear of a time getting the white oil level connector apart.
 
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